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Ok…my 85 Ford F350 has been running great thanks to several of you and my friend Harry. Lately I have to push the clutch completely to the floor to get it to work smoothly. Is there a way to adjust this? How far from the floor should the clutch pedal is pushed before in works?
thank you
Larry
Long thread, but well a read. Most likely your firewall is cracked and flexing, a VERY common problem. Don't despair, a repair plate is available and not too difficult to install. I vaguely remember another helpful thread on the subject. I'll look for it tomorrow when I have a bit more free time.
Long thread, but well a read. Most likely your firewall is cracked and flexing, a VERY common problem. Don't despair, a repair plate is available and not too difficult to install. I vaguely remember another helpful thread on the subject. I'll look for it tomorrow when I have a bit more free time.
How's the integrity of the hydraulic system, any leaks? Check the clutch hydraulic fluid level. Check for firewall cracks. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal while you observe the master. If the master moves away from the firewall more than an 1/8" you likely have a cracked firewall. A reinforcement plate is available from Bronco Graveyard
A couple guys have used this plate and cut away the left side of the bracket between the upper bolt holes so that it can be installed without removing the steering wheel. I'll try to find a post that shows all the tricks for that reinforcement plate. I used a Ford reinforcement plate that was available at one time. I think they are not available anymore. First thing is to check the master and slave for leaks and excessive movement of the master away from the firewall.
I just went out and tested the master. The firewall is very secure no cracks or play. The reservoir appears very low. I don’t see any signs of leaks around the cylinder or hydraulic line. Before I add fluid can I simply use brake fluid? Or do I need something special? I had no idea about this system before last night reading the comments. My neighbor said it was a cable adjustment…can that still be possible?
Larry
Yes, DOT3 brake fluid is what it takes. It may be time for a new clutch too. But lets make sure you have no leaks and adding the fluid helps. Follow the line down towards the clutch fork and see if there are any signs of leaking fluid.
I think you may have air in the system, so if that is the issue, you'll have to bleed the system, much like bleeding the brakes.
I just went out and tested the master. The firewall is very secure no cracks or play. The reservoir appears very low. I don’t see any signs of leaks around the cylinder or hydraulic line. Before I add fluid can I simply use brake fluid? Or do I need something special? I had no idea about this system before last night reading the comments. My neighbor said it was a cable adjustment…can that still be possible?
Larry
No cables involved. Use the same brake fluid in the clutch master. Top it off to the fill mark and pump up the clutch a bit. These hydraulic clutches catch low on the stroke. There is no adjustment other than putting the seat forward. The rod connecting the pedal to the master should be adjusted to fit over the pin with the pedal up and the master undepressed.
After I fill the reservoir how will I know if I have air in the system? This entire issue came to light when I started feeling the truck shutter a little as I released the truck. My neighbor backed my truck up as I was shooting at some Chucker and commented my clutch disengages too close to the floor. He has shorter legs than me so?
larry
When checking to see if the clutch master moves when fully depressed listen for any clicks and depress the pedal multiple times because sometimes the firewall is cracked but gets hung up on the crack and then all of a sudden let's go. The clicks may be the two sides of the crack rubbing against each other.
I’ll check that again but I didn’t hear anything this morning or at any other time. I don’t think the firewall is cracked. It is solid, no movement and zero rust.
Larry