Clutch adjustment help…please
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,667
Likes: 1,159
From: Tolland, CT
If you can get a photo of the area where the clutch master is that would be helpful for those of us who are not experts.
Here's the brace, if it comes to that.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/mob...SABEgL2-_D_BwE
Here's the brace, if it comes to that.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/mob...SABEgL2-_D_BwE
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,667
Likes: 1,159
From: Tolland, CT
Got this from Gary's site,
And, in that plane the firewall is quite stiff. However, the forces seen by the firewall when using a hydraulic linkage are in/out, and in that plane the firewall isn't as strong. In fact, Ford put out a TSB on this for all 1984 and later trucks as several of the firewalls cracked and the clutches wouldn't release all the way. The fix was to install a brace that stiffens the firewall significantly, and Ford had two different braces, as shown on the Hydraulic/Parts List tab: E3TZ 7K509-A for minimal flex; and E3TZ 7K509-B for "severely damaged" firewalls.
And, in that plane the firewall is quite stiff. However, the forces seen by the firewall when using a hydraulic linkage are in/out, and in that plane the firewall isn't as strong. In fact, Ford put out a TSB on this for all 1984 and later trucks as several of the firewalls cracked and the clutches wouldn't release all the way. The fix was to install a brace that stiffens the firewall significantly, and Ford had two different braces, as shown on the Hydraulic/Parts List tab: E3TZ 7K509-A for minimal flex; and E3TZ 7K509-B for "severely damaged" firewalls.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,316
Likes: 1,243
Short legs will need to move the seat up. Air will work itself out. When working on the system you need to get as much air out as possible. But that's not what you're doing yet. Top off the master and drive it. You might have a leak as it was low. Keep an eye on it for any leaks. Other than that drive it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,667
Likes: 1,159
From: Tolland, CT
No, No, NO. I'm not a fan of stop leak. Unless it's something just to hold you over until you can fix the problem.
I don't think there is a stop leak for brake fluid, anyways. Think about having that in "your" braking system...
Just keep an eye on it, maybe wipe the line down so you can see if there's a wet spot.
I don't think there is a stop leak for brake fluid, anyways. Think about having that in "your" braking system...
Just keep an eye on it, maybe wipe the line down so you can see if there's a wet spot.
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
As you drive it, the clutch should get better if it was very low on fluid. If the clutch doesn't get any better, check something; Pull the lid back off the clutch master, and take something like a pencil or nail, or something like that and plunge it into the fluid. Make sure your test probe goes all the way to the bottom of the reservoir. If it stops short, look at the top rim of the reservoir, and take your finger and carefully try to peel the top rim off. If it is rubber, that is the rubber piece out of the cap. It's very easy for the rubber bellows from the cap to stick on top of the reservoir, and it being black you do not see it. Then you fill it with fluid, but nothing is getting to the clutch system, it is just sitting in the rubber cup. I have had this happen to me on two different trucks. Pulled the rubber bellows off and it was really dry underneath where the fluid should have been the whole time.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 507
Likes: 39
Dave…I pulled the cap off the clutch master. This time I stood on a stool and saw that rubber piece u are referring to. I also saw a little fluid about even with that piece. I topped off the fluid and it seriously did not take very much. I traced everything and do not believe there is a leak. I took off up the canyon and the clutch seems to work just fine. Should I pull that rubber piece out to just check as a safeguard? Also, I want to confirm there is no pedal adjustment with cables or anything else? I think that’s stuck in my head because of what my friend said needed adjusting. Heck how would I know I didn’t even realize the clutch was hydraulic similiar to the brakes I just replaced…I’m learning a lot.
Thank u
Larry
Thank u
Larry
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,316
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The only cable operated clutches I know of are motor scooters and a few other apps. But you gotta a hydraulic clutch. These grab low. Mine has since new. It more or less self adjusting so no maintenance needed. As Franklin said it should improve over time, unless you have a leak then replace the leaking part. When my first master went out it didn't leak fluid. Just bypassed some fluid. So if issues persist and you don't see leaks might be time for a new master. Do the firewall reinforcement plate too at that time. As it's only a matter of time that you'll need that. Putting it on before cracking is wise.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
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From: Angier, NC
The only cable operated clutches I know of are motor scooters and a few other apps. But you gotta a hydraulic clutch. These grab low. Mine has since new. It more or less self adjusting so no maintenance needed. As Franklin said it should improve over time, unless you have a leak then replace the leaking part. When my first master went out it didn't leak fluid. Just bypassed some fluid. So if issues persist and you don't see leaks might be time for a new master. Do the firewall reinforcement plate too at that time. As it's only a matter of time that you'll need that. Putting it on before cracking is wise.
Dave ----