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I don’t have a pic yet but the floor plate that was identical to @2000duallydiesel is being prepped for install but will need to have some material cut out near the bottom of the octagon/ stop sign. See pic.
Wasn’t this supposed to fit in without having to modify the floor plate being installed?
The driveshaft is in and i need to get a longer one. It’s a 3/4” more exposed on the driveshaft yoke. What is the best way to measure so that when I call a junk yard or Marketplace that i will be searching for the driveshaft length I need?
As far as I know you are right, should just drop in with out any modding.
As for the drive shaft check with the shop that is going to make a new shaft on how they want you to measure but this is what has worked for me.
Truck HAS TO BE ON ALL 4 WHEELS and weight on the suspension.
Push the yoke into the transmission all the way and pull it out 1 inch.
Measure from center of the Ujoint of the front yoke to the center of the Ujoint or the rear yoke.
Now if it is easier to measure from the Ujoint seats front & rear do so.
When you talk to the shop tell them how you measured, from Ujoint seats or the center of the Ujoint and they can adjust from there.
Now you said the old shaft was 3/4" too short? How dose that measure up to what you measured on the truck?
If you measured right it should be that 3/4"
Now depending if you want to return the truck back to factory the shop can just use the front yoke and make a new shaft and keep the old shaft and just swap the front yoke back on it.
Kind of what I did with my truck when I added the over drive unit to the NP435 transmission. Because the transmission got pushed back 7 -1/2" the driveshaft had to be shorten but I wanted to keep the old shaft if I ever wanted to beck to factory without the over drive so the shop made a whole new shaft front yoke and all.
Dave ----
It’s about 3/4 shorter or a little less.
still fits in the trans fine but I also did not do it with the tires on the ground….. I’ll have to check that. I’d like to not have to change driveshafts. May be able to find a used one from a junk yard if I need to go slightly longer……
It’s about 3/4 shorter or a little less.
still fits in the trans fine but I also did not do it with the tires on the ground….. I’ll have to check that. I’d like to not have to change driveshafts. May be able to find a used one from a junk yard if I need to go slightly longer……
What state do you live in and what are the exact specs of your truck? The wheelbase, the type of transmission, the type of rearend, f150, f250, etc. We can search and see if someone has one locally. But driveshafts that are not bent can be hard to find in a junkyard.
If you find yourself a shop that makes them, take them the old one and tell them you need it 3/4 inch longer. They will take your old driveshaft and re-use the end pieces, use a new longer tube in the middle, and put new u-joints in it. It's very simple to do.
I think Cory reused his drive shaft when he did the 3 on tree to M5OD swap one of his flare side (short bed) trucks.
I forget what Cory's screen name is but if you do a search in here for "M5OD" I think you will find it.
I want to say he said it was 1/2" but think his was on the ground when he measured it.
Dave ----
What state do you live in and what are the exact specs of your truck? The wheelbase, the type of transmission, the type of rearend, f150, f250, etc. We can search and see if someone has one locally. But driveshafts that are not bent can be hard to find in a junkyard.
133. Installing M50D. 247 open.F100.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
They will take your old driveshaft and re-use the end pieces, use a new longer tube in the middle, and put new u-joints in it. It's very simple to do.
133. Installing M50D. 247 open.F100.
I like this idea in lieu of purchasing new one.
My 81 F100 long bed parts truck had the same gear ratio and had the SROD over drive transmission from the factory.
My 81 F100 short bed has a 2.75 gear ratio with granny first gear and I added aftermarket over drive and love it.
As for the drive shaft it is up to the shop if they can use any of the old parts. They may find it is cheaper to just use the trans yoke as it would take more time to cut the ends off the tube to reuse than what new one are.
When I added the overdrive my drive shaft had to be shorten but when the shop & I looked it over the tube had a little dent and they said they would not use it as it could be bent and weak where the dent was.
So I told the shop to just make me a new one and I would keep the old if I ever wanted to remove the over drive.
Originally Posted by Pip1972
All of them. Just doesn't seat as much of yoke in the trans as the C4 that came out.
I dont know why I thought you had a 3.03 3 on the tree?
What I meant on the splines was 1" or 2"+ engagement? If you only have 1" and pull it out 1/2" that only leaves a 1/2" of splines engaged and that I would not trust.
But if you have say 2" still engaged then that may be ok.
Dave -----
To let you know my 81 F100 is not the first truck / car I have messed with for drive shafts.
I have raced 4x4's that we had to make front & rear shafts for and when you start to jump them you have to watch you dont bottom out the splines, transfer cases dont like that
I also had to make a shaft from my 1/4 mile drag car, a 70 AMC Javelin, that I installed a TH400 from a Jeep after it was made for a 4x2.
But it is always best to check with the shop doing the work how they want it measured but telling them how you measured it they can work from there if they are good.
My pickup truck was the first time I used this shop as I just moved and told him how I measured and he said he could work with it.
Dave ----
During my search, I used a 1988 to make sure I picked up a 5 speed. When I picked a once piece driveshaft, 133 inch wheelbase, it seems they were all 4 speeds. Looking down the list, they had two piece driveshafts also, with a 133 inch wheelbase. When I picked those, they were all 5 speeds. It seems most of the 5 speeds had a two piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing in the middle.
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