Roger. I think the plate was bent backwards. Please see the link.


Please inform. @BigBlue2

update: what I received is the same as what is pictured on the website. I must have it orientated incorrectly


thanks

Phil

 

That plate fit on the inside not on the engine bay side.
The bends bolt to the top of the cowl and the right side of the firewall.
Again on the inside
Dave ----

 

All you ever wanted to know about this plate. Remember this is a link to a old thread, I do not think they guy that was making these is still making them. Bronco Graveyard is the place that sells them now.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/c...o-part1.44519/

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/c...9/#post-503748

 

Here's a thread showing how to install the Bronco Graveyard reinforcement plate

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...made-easy.html

Since you are going from an AT to a manual, will locate the clutch master as well.

 

Have had a few life events so hopefully I will get the trans swap in this spring.

I was going over parts I had from over a year ago. One question I have already…. How to connect the brake booster to the brake pedal assembly. Truck currently only has a M/C on it.



Thanks in Advance. I’ve painted the pedal assembly already…..

Second question. does any one know what the switch or electrical plug is for on the side of the assembly? Next to clutch pedal? I think it’s some sort of neutral safety? Is there a means to use on the 81?

 

A few questions back at you.
What is that pedal assy. out of? You can only use the pedal assy. from 83 (80) to 86 that uses hydraulic clutch as the 87> pedal bracket assy. will not bolt in.

I dont understand what you are saying by "How to connect the brake booster to the brake pedal assembly. Truck currently only has a M/C on it."?
The brake rods should hook up the same way as before. Now are you saying your truck is non-power brakes and the pedal assy. is from a 83-86 power brake truck?
I cant remember if they had different brake rod hook up or not now as it has been over 5 years that I messed with the pedal assy. and power / non-power brakes.
CAN TELL YOU the brake pedals are different between them where the pin is the rod hooks to. Measure from the pivot to the pin on both and you will see what I am saying and maybe that is what is throwing you off?
If your truck was non-power and you are staying non-power you will need to swap the brake pedals to keep / use the non-power one.
I have done a few power to non-power (non-Ford) and 1 non-power to power (my truck) so I know the pedals are different.

If the cross shafts are the same size between the 2 pedal assy. you can take the hydraulic clutch pedal and shaft and swap it into your pedal assy.
If I seen posts right it is the arm on the end of the shaft that is clocked wrong but the way it fits on the shaft is why the shaft had to be swapped too.

As for that switch there where 2 different switches used on the clutch side.
1 was a "clutch safety" switch. You have to have the cclutch pushed in before the key would work to start the motor. This was for the dummies that would try and start the motor when in ger and it would take off.
ALWAYS PUSH THE CLUTCH IN WHEN STARTING A MANUAL TRANSMISSION CAR OR TRUCK! Even if it dose not have the safety switch.
The other I believe was a vacuum switch for speed control. If you had speed control set and were to push the clutch in it would disengaged so the motor would not race.
Dave ----

 

84 F150 w/ power brakes.

Yes. Thank you for interpreting my non verbal question….

Going to Power brakes. I think I bought the booster that was for a 1984 or 1985 power brake truck. Thinking it should fit to the 81 F100.

I don’t know what you mean by cross shaft. Is it circled below?




Thank you Dave. Some of this is comin back to me. I believe I can see if the pedal needs to be reclocked how that’s done.

Appreciate your comments.

I believe I’ll need the adjustment rod to go from clutch pedal to Master cylinder. Not
sure how that is to fit on the right side of the pedal assembly even if it needs reclocking. Just ordered the rod so I’ll see if it fits over the pin. The diameter of the eye on the one end of the adjustment rod looks larger than the pin on the pedal assembly. Will look at it once it arrives.

Will also install the bracket that goes on the firewall to reinforce it due to the hyd clutch being installed. May cut it like another poster did instead of pulling out the steering column.

One more thing.

You made the following quote on another thread about swapping in the cross member….

What truck would I want to take that cross member out of? I did buy the new mount for the 5speed from Rockauto for a truck that had the Mazda 5 speed thinking it would fit in the crossmember i have…. Not the case? I will also need to change out the floor plate over the tunnel? If so what one should i need/look for?

Thanks Dave.

 

The booster will come with the pedal rod made into it. It will have a very large hole at the end of the rod. This fits over that silver pin with the small hole in it in the picture above. Your first reaction once you put the large booster rod hole onto the pedal pin is "I need a bushing". No you don't. It is supposed to be sloppy like that. There is a brake pedal electrical switch that fits onto and round this assembly. Then the keeper holds it in place, going into that small hole. The brake switch actually rides up and down with the pedal as you apply the brakes. When you first apply the brakes, that slop in the hole is taken up and actuates the brake switch. After that it starts pressing on the booster and applying the brakes.

Any other brake switch you might have had on the original non-power brakes, if it was somewhere else, will not be used.

 

1380 is the brake switch. Looks like in the 2nd diagram which is manual brakes, they are setup the same way so you should have the proper switch floating around under there somewhere.

 

Lest see if I can answer the questions.
The easy first as long as the brake pedal you are going to use is from a power brake truck, remember the pin to the booster / master linkage on the pedal shaft is at a different distance from the pivot and why you need a power brake pedal.
The booster should bolt up as the 4 holes are in the firewall. 2 are used to hold the non-power master and pedal bracket, the other 2 hold just the bracket. With power brakes the booster uses all 4 holes to the bracket.
I cant remember if the masters are the same, bore dia. & stroke, or not as I bought the booster & master as a package as both of mine were bad and why I think the parts truck rolled over?

Now the clutch end. Mechanical linkage the arm on the end pushes down on a rod thru the floor to the cross shaft, the hydraulic pushes forward on the clutch master rod.
Because of this the arms that hook to the linkage or master are clocked differently and the cross shaft I believe is also different so you cant just change the arms.
I have not looked at my linkage & hydraulic pedal assy. that close and would need to dig them out and that is not going to happen right now but only what I seen posted so I could be all wrong too?
If you got your old and the new pedal assy. look at the clutch ends to see what I am taking about.

When I swapped out the pedals in my truck it was for the non-power for a power brake pedal as both where from 81 F100 trucks that had clutch linkage.
The hydraulic pedal assy. I got came with the NP435 transmission I installed in my truck but kept the clutch linkage as I rebuilt it.
I hope I answered your questions and if the pedals you have came from a power brake / hydraulic clutch truck it should bolt in and work once you bolt up the booster.
Other than the hydraulic clutch I did the non-power to power brake swap.
Dave ----

 

I think you meant 13480? That switch looks similar to the one in my 2008 f150…..

 

I would say you are right "13480" and it is the same switch both my 81's have.
ATT I dont remember what switch I used power or non-power but I dont thing it makes a difference?
Dave ----

 

Following up on the crossmember and tunnel plate question….

 

First I have not done this transmission swap so some of my answers can be wrong.
On the cross member I dont know if they are different from the transmission cross member that was in your truck or not?
All you can do is try the old cross member and the new mount for the M5OD and fingers crossed it all works.
I am 99.9% sure if doing a ZF5 you need the cross member and the upper braces so you might be good.

As for the hump I dont remember what transmission the truck had to start with?
I am also 99.9% sure you need the hump from the ZF5 truck when doing a ZF5 swap as it is higher to clear the transmission but with the M5OD I dont think that is a problem.
But the shifter hole maybe in a different location than where yours is?
I know 100% the holes are in different locations between the T18 / NP435 and the SROD transmission.
When I swapped out the bad T18 for a NP435 I also added the over drive unit and that pushed the transmission back 7.5" so the T18 hole would not work.
Because I wanted to keep the T18 pan if I wanted to go back without the over drive I used the SROD pan and mod it to work with the shifter and the overdrive shifter, after I bent it some as I did not want to cut up my new floor.

Sorry to say you will just have to try each, cross member & pan, to see what works if it will work or you need to go get the M5OD parts.
Dave ----

 

You're going to need the crossmember from a truck that had the M5OD. One side will bolt up and on the other, I think I had to drill one hole in the frame rail to match the crossmember.
I recently completed this swap.