It's like a verbal warzone here! I don't know what happened and I didn't read everything before writing this so I apologize if this is out of place/unnecessary.

WannabuyaFord, I've been looking at the serpentine belt routing diagram, and here's my two cents on the issue.
After the belt routes around the alternator and rides on the tensioner, yours goes straight to the crankshaft and not to the smog (which is deleted at the moment).
The amount of force the tensioner needs to keep tension on the belt when the you skip the smog pump is greater than what the stock tensioner was designed to handle. With the belt wrapping around the tensioner and around the smog pump it is less stress/force on the tensioner.
Which makes the tensioner more effective with the smog pump/dummy pulley in place.

When I tried to help you earlier when you started this thread I did not account for the change in tensioner location, on my 1990 truck the tensioner is located between the alternator and A/C so when I deleted the Smog system, All i needed to do was run a shorter belt since the tensioner was not affected, or at least not affected as much.
Since you're missing that smog pulley, it has drastically changed the angles the tensioner was designed to work with, of course there's gonna be some belt issues.
Get that smog-pump-dummy-pulley if you haven't yet, and the OEM belt length. I am absolutely convinced this will be the proper fix.

We're here to help because sometimes it sucks to own a FORD!
Let us know how it goes, and good luck!
-Marshall

 

Mine is a 95 f250. And was optioned with ac but I already deleted it years ago with a bracket and replacement pulley, belt length didn't change then. Recently I pulled the motor out for some repairs and one of the things I did was delete the air pump and attempt to shortbelt it. The common method I had found to do this was to also eliminate the top idler. I tried three belt lengths before finding one that 'sort of' worked. Being unsatisfied with how it was being tensioned and the start up alternator squeel it developed, I decided to go back to factory routing by using the mustang air pump elimination bracket. Knowing that I needed to swap out the pulley on that bracket with one the same diameter as the air pump pulley, which I did. It all worked out perfectly. I'll try to grab a couple of pics and add them to this thread.

 

Finally found a source for the air bracket for under $100 and I think I maybe got the last one. I'm not sure it's a match yet but once I remove the SMOG (and figure out what else goes with the air delete) I'll find out.

Thanks to the folks who recommended the bracket and helped with the part number. And to the people who talked me out of just trying to force a new belt on my existing layout. I don't know if it will all work out but I feel like it was the right way to go.

Also really want to thank the person who showed me how to mute users. I am excited not to have to read through spam anymore when I post things. Much appreciated!

 

you moron, if I hadnt participated in this thread no one would have found your solutions youre thanking people for. Imagine being this dense. Its for the best when it comes to my mental health, I guess, But damn thats some serious Cope.

 

Pics would be great. What writeup or video did you use for the air delete? I'm about to start mine and I saw some videos talking about EGR valves, and welding *something* but none of the videos I saw were clear on what they cut/plugged/welded/removed. And it ain't covered in Haynes of course. What did you follow to do yours?

 

Frankly I shouldn't even waste my time at this point but getting really tired of trying to make a point. Every mechanic is different and each one has their own way of doing it. I thought the idea of just throwing the air pump back on and using it as a big idler pulley and blocking off the rest would be a great idea but some people are different. Hate to break it to you wannabuyaford but there is no "proper" write up procedure for this. If you ask me... these things shouldn't tampered with to begin with but you obviously weren't thinking about that when you bought the truck. Is it kind of annoying? Of course. But taking this off has basically doomed the truck from ever passing emissions.


I know for a damn fact that you'll call me a "scammer" when I'm really not but go ahead and block me because I know you will. Give it time and I'm sure these other people will dip once they figure out what you've said to the rest of the people in here. I'm not joining in another one of these stupidly long threads again so good luck.

 

well said, man

 

I find posting pics a bit difficult but will try to get a couple up still, working quite a bit. My routing that I will be taking pics of isn't/shouldn't be helpful to anyone. Its the factory routing for a 95 f250 5.8w. Instead of a ac compressor there is a ac delete pulley, instead of a air pump there is a mustang air pump delete pulley where the pulley has been changed to the same size as the original f250 5.8w air pump pulley which is the same size as the ac delete pulley. Factory belt length, factory routing. I did not re-use my air pump as a idler pulley as its nearly 30 years old and felt rough to turn. Both of the delete brackets I used bolt in place of the original components they are deleting. It's as simple as that.

I removed everything to do with the air pump system except the electrical solenoids. All air tubing and vacuum lines. My 95 f250 5.8w had the air system connected to the exhaust manifolds not the heads so I plugged the manifold entry points, didn't have to look at the back of the heads at all. I didn't follow any specific how to. I researched it and came up with a plan and executed it.

 

on the contrary, that is helpful, it shows us how those parts went together and how close to the original setup it is and we know which parts were used to do it

 

I have no idea what you're talking about "scammer." I don't think you're running a scam.

I don't know what you mean about passing emissions. Are you saying that I'm blocking something that I shouldn't be? Could you explain please?

You said something about throwing the air pump back on. But my air pump is on. So I think you're confused.

I don't know what you were trying to say. You said you're trying to make a point and then you sort of wandered off into other territory.

You said there is no "proper" write up procedure for this. I don't know what you mean by "proper" but all of the videos and texts I've seen so far skip major parts, just don't show what they did basically. And some of them casually mention other things like "EGR valve" but I don't know what that is, if I have it, if I need it, if I need to remove it if I'm deleting the air, etc. So that's what I'm looking for. My fault if I wasn't clear.

So I don't get what you're trying to communicate here.

 

First off if you can't ID the components of the engine, you need to start there. Removing the air system properly and having everything capped off or removed properly is going to be difficult if you can't identify the engine components. There are decent youtube vids out there just on component ID. But just so you know if you are deleting the air pump/air injection system, you don't need to do anything with the EGR mine is in place and functioning as intended. Emission testing isn't a thing in my area so I don't concern myself with that.

 

I’ve looked back a bit in this thread. And my pic of my belt/deletes is way crappier then the one that Auroragirl already posted ages ago in this thread. Exact same delete brackets and pulleys. Factory belt length and routing, tensioner works exactly the same as factory.

 

thank you