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I’d disagree, the belt is not the problem, and getting a shorter belt isn’t the solution either. Your belt is falling off the pulleys either cause those idlers are causing it to slip, or the tensioner is no longer strong enough to keep tension on the belt.
Could be but did you see the photo? The old belt is longer. To me that suggests that it is stretched out and needs to be replaced.
It's not "a shorter belt" - well it is but it's the same model.
I suppose it could be the tensioner. The idler and dummy and PS pulleys are all new.
Anyway like I said unless it gets really cold again there's no way to look at it when it falls off because it won't fall off again. I still need to be able to replace the belt!
I don't. Sorry, I wasn't clear. That's what I was referring to when I said that I don't have emissions. Maybe I used the wrong term? I don't actually know what an air pump is, I thought it was for emissions. I also don't see a place to attach a "dummy" pulley, but I will look again when it's warmer out.
so youre missing an entire accessory that both wraps he belt in the corner of the belts outer reaches, And you are missing something that adds a considerable amount of length to your belt, allowing you to purchase it for "the accessory" drive you have.
To me, if you have the SMOG pump and its not seized, reinstall it and put the belt on on (new one) from an auto store and then tension it. If problem goes away youre looking at an entirely legnth based issue + belt wrap.
Thanks for your time but I don't think any of this applies to my situation.
For one thing, the belt falls off by the time I walk from the cab to the hood, and no I do not have anyone else to help me. Also it only happens in extreme cold, which we're probably done with for the year.
And maybe I'm just stupd but I don't see marks on the tensioner?
the 5.0 and 5.8 engines do not use marks on the tensioner body from the OEM. If your belt was stretched so much that the tensioner is on the "stop" or close to it, the cold temp could have been all it needed to just walk itself off. but temps rising allow it some fluid behavior lol
so youre missing an entire accessory that both wraps he belt in the corner of the belts outer reaches, And you are missing something that adds a considerable amount of length to your belt, allowing you to purchase it for "the accessory" drive you have.
To me, if you have the SMOG pump and its not seized, reinstall it and put the belt on on (new one) from an auto store and then tension it. If problem goes away youre looking at an entirely legnth based issue + belt wrap.
Okay, this makes sense, but I do not have whatever it is that was removed from that area. I also don't see a location for a dummy pulley. Do you have any advice for that situation?
the 5.0 and 5.8 engines do not use marks on the tensioner body from the OEM. If your belt was stretched so much that the tensioner is on the "stop" or close to it, the cold temp could have been all it needed to just walk itself off. but temps rising allow it some fluid behavior lol
Correct. The question is how to solve it, which I think means getting a tighter belt on?
For a replacement most would get a smog pump delete bracket with pulley like the one from Ford Racing (#68110). To determine a proper belt you could use a belt tension gauge like the Gates "Krikit", for a 5.8L the minimum tension should be 51lbs. For reference I recall a gain of 30 lbs in tension with a belt that was 1 inch shorter than stock due to a slightly smaller delete pulley.
For a replacement most would get a smog pump delete bracket with pulley like the one from Ford Racing (#68110). To determine a proper belt you could use a belt tension gauge like the Gates "Krikit", for a 5.8L the minimum tension should be 51lbs. For reference I recall a gain of 30 lbs in tension with a belt that was 1 inch shorter than stock due to a slightly smaller delete pulley.
This is extremely helpful, as was @AuroraGirl's input (and others' too).. So the consensus is that the previous owner deleted the SMOG, did not install that part, and instead used a belt that he managed to manhandle into place. This may be why my PS pulley, idler pulley, and some other pulley all went bad and also why the belt slips off when it's too stiff.
This is coming together well. Thank you everyone, and I'll post back when I know more.
Oh man, just saw the price. $120. How certain are you guys this is what I need to do? I've already sunk a bunch of money into this damned truck, I've driven it about 800 miles in three years, and it never seems to end. $120 is definitely doable, but there's such a thing as throwing bad money after good. Is there something I can check to make *sure* that I need this?
Oh man, just saw the price. $120. How certain are you guys this is what I need to do? I've already sunk a bunch of money into this damned truck, I've driven it about 800 miles in three years, and it never seems to end. $120 is definitely doable, but there's such a thing as throwing bad money after good. Is there something I can check to make *sure* that I need this?
(Unless someone knows a cheaper way to buy it?)
thats why i said find another smog pump, a used one. they gotta be plentiful in yards. just have it blowing air aimlessly, because that will give your belt factory proper function.
now, if you want to NOT use this, I seem to recall maybe it was @rla2005 pr @Hit Man X who had deleted that pulley and found a new belt and srouted it the same way as apparently some 302 mustangs came factory?
I was able to remove the smog pump and not use an idler in place of it on my old 1992 F350 w/5.8L engine. It used the same tensioner and routing as the top photo that AuroraGirl posted. The tensioner and belt routing the OP has is not as friendly since one of the belt idler pulleys is above the tensioner. There is less wrap which can causes issues.
I was able to remove the smog pump and not use an idler in place of it on my old 1992 F350 w/5.8L engine. It used the same tensioner and routing as the top photo that AuroraGirl posted. The tensioner and belt routing the OP has is not as friendly since one of the belt idler pulleys is above the tensioner. There is less wrap which can causes issues.
I thought I saw something different between the photos! Is this tensioner an extra or is it a different one? one could swap to make it like the picture?
thats why i said find another smog pump, a used one. they gotta be plentiful in yards. just have it blowing air aimlessly, because that will give your belt factory proper function.
now, if you want to NOT use this, I seem to recall maybe it was @rla2005 <acronym title="Page Ranking">pr</acronym> @Hit Man X who had deleted that pulley and found a new belt and srouted it the same way as apparently some 302 mustangs came factory?
The nearest JY to me has a $300 minimum on anything, and most of the stuff they pull ends up broken and is long rusted.
The second nearest JY to me costs $300 in gas to get to (and from). So, a JY part is not better here. But I appreciate the idea.
I will pay the $120 if it will work. It would be nice to get this car running to the point where I can drive it more than 5 miles without fear of its breaking down. $120 would be worth it for that. I'm just wondering how sure people are that - given my engine bay - this part will do the trick?
Do I take it that @rla2005 is saying that the trick you used will not work with my layout? Those two engine bays do look different to me, but I am not smart so who knows?
When I was having problems with my 5.8L throwing belts I learned 2 things:
1. The crankshaft pulley from a '79-'93 mustang has a more pronounced lip that helps keep the belt on, and it bolted right into place on my truck. It also is a smaller diameter than the truck pulley, so it acts as an underdrive pulley (but also means you'll need a shorter belt). https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8221B/musta...t-pulley-79-93
2. ***Probably the real issue *** - The power steering pulley is a press-fit and is possible for it to not be pressed on all the way, causing it to be slightly misaligned with the other pulleys.
Oh also - what does that $120 bracket attach to? When the snow melts I should crawl under there and see if I even have the part that that part requires!
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