1981 f250 2wd long bed with 4.9l i6
#2
It says it is for a v8 not the 300 six.
Are you looking for the line from the pump to the front / side tank?
or
The pump to the tank switching valve?
or
The pump to the rear tank?
Is this for a 100 point trailer queen never to see the road or looking to replace a leaking line and get it back on the road?
If the later then I would hit up Ebay or Amazon for a coil or 5/16" copper / nickel tubing.
If you dont have a small tubing cutter pick one up and maybe a tubing bender but you should not need the bender and the tubing is easy to bend by hand.
Being C/N it will not rust out like the factory steel one.
Dave ----
Are you looking for the line from the pump to the front / side tank?
or
The pump to the tank switching valve?
or
The pump to the rear tank?
Is this for a 100 point trailer queen never to see the road or looking to replace a leaking line and get it back on the road?
If the later then I would hit up Ebay or Amazon for a coil or 5/16" copper / nickel tubing.
If you dont have a small tubing cutter pick one up and maybe a tubing bender but you should not need the bender and the tubing is easy to bend by hand.
Being C/N it will not rust out like the factory steel one.
Dave ----
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#8
Yes, that is all you need to do. The copper/nickel is soft and easy to run and bend. And it will not rust. Some people take their brake flare tool and make a small bump on the end of the line for the clamp to hold onto. But I never did it and never had a problem. If you have a mechanical pump on the engine, the supply line will have suction. If you have a small electric pump at the rear, you will not have much over 5 psi on the lines and the clamps. I have used this method with a fuel injection system with 40 psi on the lines and never had a problem with it flying apart or leaking.
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