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The tech would have cleared it for sure. Maybe, if you'll take a second to tell us what you're trying to accomplish. As Jack said, "Why are we even in this thread?" Are you trying to fix it yourself? Are you trying to understand whether your shop is on the right track and not dishonest? Are you trying to protect yourself going forward? Do you want to know what to look for in a good shop, what you don't want to hear?
The same truck symptoms have different answers depending on your answers to those questions. The problem is that the answers to the questions you are asking can't be known by anyone here. You really need to have possession of the truck and a good quality code reader/data monitor to do anything, and you don't have those. You will make much, much faster progress simply reading through all the great resources in this forum's Tech Folder to better understand the basics of this engine, rather than waiting on these busy guys to provide that info. (Disclaimer: I've been guilty of this way too many times and am trying to get better).
That folder is a sticky on the forum's main page. You can also search terms like P2285 though the drop-down search box right there to focus on the 6.0 forum. More general searches can target the entire site.
I would like to see if I can fix this myself as well as if the shop is being dishonest. I will definitely be investing in a good quality scanner. I will start with that folder though thank you all for your time.
The second time you replace injectors will be easy. Like any repair, the first time is tough. Only special tools are the Torx wrenches, a torque wrench (loaner at auto parts house), a short, swivel head box wrench, IIRC, 12mm, to get the lower valve cover bolts on the passenger side, and the tricky combination of wreches/torxfitting to get to the #7 injector with the torque wrench. Maybe a breaker bar for the dummy plugs/standpipe, they're stout. Just go slow and follow directions. Be careful plugging/unplugging the injectors so you don't damage the connector/pins. Disconnect your batteries before starting.
Since he stated that his ICP sensor is behind the turbo (03 engine), so assuming he is correct - the advice on dummy plugs (and the standpipes) is not applicable ...........
I tend to have little respect for loaner torque wrenches, but who knows .........
A quality T40 Torx bit, of the proper length, is a big help to get the injectors torqued down properly.
Then there are the two "Grizzly" injectors that just got installed ....... Maybe Corey at CNCFab can comment on them. He seems to sell that brand for the 7.3L. Personally I wouldn't want them in my 6.0L truck though. It would be worth contacting him - he, or a representative, is somewhat active in the forums (Powerstroke.org).
Anyway - it will all be a learning experience I am sure. Gotta start somewhere I guess. Picking quality parts is the first thing to get right.
Never had any truck below an '05 - do you not have to remove standpipes/dummy plugs to change injectors on those trucks?
OP, I wasn't recommending you start anywhere. Can't say without data, and you'd want other people's opinions anyway. I would say that you can't drive a truck with stacks like that without at least pretending to get under the hood every now and then. What would the neighbors say? You might as well order some blue pills now or kiss the wife goodbye.
The 03 engine doesn't have dummy plugs - dummy plugs are for the 04.5 and up engines (engines with the wavy oil rail). Also, the '03 standpipe is a different design, and they are connected to the straight oil rail as shown below (braided hose):
Picture attached.
Removing the braided hose fitting from the oil rail:
Note - the quick release tool goes UNDER the rubber at the oil rail connection, but ABOVE the rubber at the standpipe connection.
>>>Never had any truck below an '05 - do you not have to remove standpipes/dummy plugs to change injectors on those trucks?
2003 design: From the oil rail, you release the quick connect fitting on a braided hose, similar to an air chuck. Unbolt the oil rail and lift off. Remove injector.
This cart is way in front of the horse.
I see Mark edited the message above to include the images.
I don’t like the stack either if I was planning on keeping the truck I would’ve gotten rid of it. I traded a 78 f150 for it think I could get more money out of selling the 6.0. But not anymore.
Looking at a 15,764 post count, and seeing a statement made like "... This cart is way in front of the horse" ..........
I think it would be wise to ask for some clarification - unless of course you are dead-set on replacing injectors now.
My guess: If it is doing the exact same thing (acting hydrolocked), then the next step would probably be to remove the glow plugs and rotate the engine so that you might identify which cylinders had liquid in them, and if so, then identify what that liquid was.
If you continuously crank on a hydrolocked engine, you can "bend things".
If it isn't hydrolocking, then ForScan would be the next logical step (codes, etc).
I have started on taking the glow plugs out already was a bit more difficult than the videos. My harness was a solid square bar instead of just wires. So they all have to come out at one time.
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