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Well. I have good news and bad news. The good news is this:
It is finally in my carport. The bad news is it failed smog (no surprise) and the codes were coil pack "C", coil pack "D" and "camshaft positioning sensor". I expected it to say two coil packs. I did not expect it to say cam positioning sensor. And it gets worse. About a half a block away from the Red Carpet place, it starts sounding really bad, with knocking coming from the engine, and the power dropped off considerably. I made it to the driveway, and it went away, and stayed away until I was bringing it home, and right as I was making the last right turn onto Shields, it started knocking again, and the power dropped off so much it would barely move. I nursed it into the carport spot and shut it down. I am thinking the timing chain tensioner (or both) has broken, and randomly comes in contact with the chain. That can't be good. And I would guess it will not be cheap to fix either. So, it looks like I will be looking for help from more organizations around here. I will take the scooter to the DMV tomorrow morning to get that 30-day temp permit, and then call around for some estimates. None of this I can do myself. They said the rear tires need to be replaced ASAP as there is only about 10% of tread left on them. That also is no surprise.
There is some other good news. It is cleaner than I have ever seen it, and the brake light no longer comes on now. Only the check engine light. The transmission shifted fine; the brakes worked fine also. And the friend who drove me over to the truck followed me to Red Carpet and I asked if the brake lights worked, and he said yes. While there, they checked everything. Lights, tires, brakes, transfer case, transmission and rear axle, and topped off anything that needed it. All the lights work, and it must have the lights that come on automatically because when I pulled into the carport the headlights came on. 200,222.3 miles on it when the oil was changed. They used high mileage Mobil 1 dino oil. I am very happy to have it home, and even though I am afraid to get quotes for the repairs, I will just live with it. I am in no position to sell it, and look for another vehicle, and once I get all the needed work done, I will have too much invested in it to get rid of it. I like it. It rides smoothly and the engine was smooth at 40 mph, but got rough when sitting at a light, and especially when it knocked like a diesel.
104 here today is what they say, but our hottest part of the day is between 4-6pm, and right now it says 100. So, I don't know if it will make it to 104 or not. Doesn't matter. I am grounded. I tried going to the DMV today to get the 30-day temp permit, and when I got there, it was closed for renovation. Won't be open until August 30th. So, I headed back. Got about halfway there and my right rear tire blew out. Which should be impossible since it doesn't have any air in it. Just foam rubber. It was flopping so bad it was not possible to go on. So, I called a friend from church who came out and put the scooter in the bed of his truck with the help of two ATV ramps. There is another DMV about the same distance from my apartment, but I would not have been able to go to it until Monday anyway due to the limited battery range. Now it looks like I will have to baby the truck over there.
After watching a video on cam position sensor installation, it looks like that is something I can do. And the part is only $21 at O'Reilly, or $41 if I get the Motorcraft one. Also found coil packs for $21.95 at Amazon, so I will buy two of those and then figure out which ones are "C" and "D" on the engine. back when I worked on cars, Ford numbered their engines 1234 on one side, and 5678 on the other. When did they change to letters? I'll check the 5.4 forum. I'm sure they know more about this than I do.
Happy Sunday Nor Cal. I pray everyone has a blessed day. According to the FTE forums, coil packs "C" and "D" are the last two on the passenger side of the engine. So, the two closest to the firewall. I may have to pay someone to install if I can't reach them. Also informed by a FTE member that the oil pump is picking up bits of the timing tensioners and might cause the engine to self-destruct. He suggested getting a remanufactured engine if possible. I informed him of my limited income. There is no way I can afford one of those. This truck would be a good candidate for one seeing as how the body is in such good shape, as is the rest of the driveline. Maybe I can find a place that offers financing.
The good news is that the 5.4 has known issues with solutions. Timing. Phasers. Oil pump. Spark plugs. Nothing that can't be addressed. The forums have plenty of information on all of the issues.
I have been looking on the internet for used engines for the truck. One place offers a engine with 79k miles for $1,850 and it comes with a 5-year warranty. That includes free shipping. I have received two other offers, one for an engine with 42,999 miles and a 3-year warranty, and another with 65,555 miles with a 2-year warranty. All offer free shipping and no core charge. The last two don't list a price they just want me to call them. So, now I am wondering if I should save my money and do this or save my money to pay for the timing chain/tensioner replacement. Obviously replacing the engine will be more expensive, but I am wondering if I do the timing chain/tensioner thing I will still have an engine with over 200k miles on it. And all the offers I have received so far have some kind of warranty on them. Downside is it would probably take me over a year to get the money for the engine and pay someone to install it. Maybe $1,000 for installation? So, looking at $2,800 total. $200 a month for 14 months would do it, but will the current engine last that long? I doubt it. I will probably have to get the timing chain/tensioner issue fixed asap so it doesn't destroy itself, and then save for a rebuilt one.
Comments?
Save yourself from another headache. Do not buy a used engine. You will only have to spend more money down the line. That used engine is guaranteed to have the same problems after you buy it. Find a reputable engine builder in your area, and get an idea of what it would cost to rebuild the engine that you already have. A remanufactured engine from a known and reputable builder is best.
There are pros and cons to every idea. Yes, a used engine will have the same problems eventually, but it is under warranty, so if the problems occur then, it would be covered. A lower mileage engine will not have worn out timing chains. and it is cheaper. I have not priced my engine being rebuilt but can look into that. Maybe there is an organization that can help me pay for it too. That would be the preferred way to go as then I would know the engine is good.
Jim
Last edited by Nighteyez; Jul 17, 2023 at 11:50 AM.
Reason: spelling
It's one thing for someone selling used engines to offer a warranty. It's another thing for you to try to file a claim for the warranty. The easiest thing for them to do, is not even respond; if that company is still in business. Then you will have to hire lawyers, and try to call government agencies to report their fraud. The Better Business Bureau is not a government agency, has zero enforcement ability, and can't do anything other than calling them. Then depending on how far you get, they can always say that it's a used engine, there's no way to predict the longevity of it, and that you or your mechanic did something wrong when it was installed.
I have a feeling that an engine rebuild, with parts and labor, will be more expensive than buying a remanufactured engine. It's usually like that for engines and transmissions. The big part of the cost is labor. Technicians are tearing down, diagnosing, and rebuilding. That takes time. Hourly wages are expensive. You can find shops which specialize in doing engine work. California Automotive & Diagnostic Specialist and J's Performance Automotive are Jasper Engines affiliate installers. If Jasper has enough confidence to partner with them to install their engines, then they should be able to give you an honest and knowledgeable quote with your engine.
One thing to consider with an engine rebuild, is how they do the work. Are they using OEM parts and rebuilding to OEM specifications? In which case, you will probably get the same problems all over again. Or will they rebuild it to be better than OEM? This could be seen as money spent for a truck which will last you another 10 years, or money lost on a truck which will last less than 5 years.
Remanufactured engines and transmissions from reputable companies like Jasper, Powertrain Company, and Fraser are what better dealerships and shops use. Those companies are in the business of assembling engines and transmissions, with factory equipment. It's what they do, and all that they do. It's not like a guy who is a mechanic, maybe builds a 5.4 3V every 3 years, and is doing it all on a shop bench with common hand tools. And there will be no problem with filing a warranty claim if you actually need to. Take a look at what they do when remanufacturing. How they use certain improved timing parts and a better oil pump. When you go to get quotes for a rebuild, ask those questions.
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I expected it to say two coil packs. I did not expect it to say cam positioning sensor. And it gets worse. About a half a block away from the Red Carpet place, it starts sounding really bad, with knocking coming from the engine, and the power dropped off considerably. I made it to the driveway, and it went away, and stayed away until I was bringing it home, and right as I was making the last right turn onto Shields, it started knocking again, and the power dropped off so much it would barely move. I nursed it into the carport spot and shut it down. I am thinking the timing chain tensioner (or both) has broken, and randomly comes in contact with the chain. That can't be good. And I would guess it will not be cheap to fix either. So, it looks like I will be looking for help from more organizations around here. I will take the scooter to the DMV tomorrow morning to get that 30-day temp permit, and then call around for some estimates. None of this I can do myself. They said the rear tires need to be replaced ASAP as there is only about 10% of tread left on them. That also is no surprise.
