Water Pump Issue
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 891
Likes: 561
From: End of the Rockies
I was in the middle of a shower today and my water pump system stopped pumping. The water pump is a REMCO that is a couple years old. It's a few more gallons per minute than the prior pump which may or may not have been the OEM pump. The REMCO works good, when it's pumping. I've had an issue before where the system stopped in the middle of a shower. The last time, it was a fuse that had blown. I've experienced some odd behaviour the past few days with the water pump system. I turn on the switch and it doesn't do anything. Then other times I turn on the switch, get no light on the switch, but the pump runs. It's in that state right now.
The REMCO 55 AquaJet-ARV water pump is rated for 10 amps max and the fuse is also 10 amps. That's cutting it close so I can see blowing the fuse. Both times I had issues with the shower has been when I shut off the water flow at the shower head. I don't know if that matters, but it's consistent.
This time when I was in the middle of a shower , there was no red trouble light next to the fuse. I pulled the fuse and checked it with my meter and it had continuity. It looked fine also. Just in case, I replaced the fuse. It started working, but the switch isn't lighted like it should be. This seems like a simple issue with the switch. But usually a switch either works or it doesn't, right?
The only spec I can find on the switch is that it has a label that says 24v. Maybe the switch can't handle the higher amps of a 12v system? The water heater and water pump switches are the same. If the water pump system fails again on this trip I'll try swapping the two switches and see what happens. It's back to working for now, so any testing that I did with the switch wouldn't tell me anything. Other than the light isn't working.
The REMCO 55 AquaJet-ARV water pump is rated for 10 amps max and the fuse is also 10 amps. That's cutting it close so I can see blowing the fuse. Both times I had issues with the shower has been when I shut off the water flow at the shower head. I don't know if that matters, but it's consistent.
This time when I was in the middle of a shower , there was no red trouble light next to the fuse. I pulled the fuse and checked it with my meter and it had continuity. It looked fine also. Just in case, I replaced the fuse. It started working, but the switch isn't lighted like it should be. This seems like a simple issue with the switch. But usually a switch either works or it doesn't, right?
The only spec I can find on the switch is that it has a label that says 24v. Maybe the switch can't handle the higher amps of a 12v system? The water heater and water pump switches are the same. If the water pump system fails again on this trip I'll try swapping the two switches and see what happens. It's back to working for now, so any testing that I did with the switch wouldn't tell me anything. Other than the light isn't working.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,687
Likes: 12,812
From: Wyoming
After replacing the switch I completed around 50 nights of boondocking. The new switch has been working fine. The only problem with the water pump is that it isn't very good at priming.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,627
Likes: 4,710
From: Itinerant
There might be an adjusting screw on the pump maybe near the switch.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,687
Likes: 12,812
From: Wyoming
The strainer/filter is clean. I could see where a loose connection from the tank would prevent priming. I'll have to check that. But if that was the case, wouldn't that line drain back into the tank after it had been drawn up and the pump shut off? Once primed, it's OK.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,627
Likes: 4,710
From: Itinerant
Does your water line feeding the pump stay full? I know mine does, just looked at it. If the pump is older or not older maybe the diaphragms inside the pump are on their wayout. They are rebuildable.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,687
Likes: 12,812
From: Wyoming
I filled the tank with about 90 gallons (120 gallon tank) last time, so I know it's not a low water situation.
I drain the fresh water tank and water heater after each trip, which isn't helping the situation. When it's going through the priming phase I do open a couple of hot and cold water spigots to let the air out.
A call to REMCO may be in order. Unfortunately, it's out of warranty.
I drain the fresh water tank and water heater after each trip, which isn't helping the situation. When it's going through the priming phase I do open a couple of hot and cold water spigots to let the air out.
A call to REMCO may be in order. Unfortunately, it's out of warranty.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,627
Likes: 4,710
From: Itinerant
I could be debris in valves or the diaphragms.
For your use in the late spring, summer, early fall I wouldn't drain everything after using it everytime. Unless you know freezing temps are there in Denver.
If I'm in a boondock location in freezing weather (single digits) I'll pour rv antifreeze in all traps and in the holding tanks during the nighttime just because of no use and a just because. I do have heated compartments and tanks.
For your use in the late spring, summer, early fall I wouldn't drain everything after using it everytime. Unless you know freezing temps are there in Denver.
If I'm in a boondock location in freezing weather (single digits) I'll pour rv antifreeze in all traps and in the holding tanks during the nighttime just because of no use and a just because. I do have heated compartments and tanks.
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Joined: Aug 2023
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Likes: 78
From: City of oranges
I had a problem with priming about 6 months ago that progressively got worse until it wouldn’t prime at all.. My issue was the pump was sucking air at the strainer/filter. I found the little o ring was missing by chance, no leaks and worked fine after it primed.
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