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Back to basics - lets see a picture of your oil filter cap.
There she is!
So I got home and tried to start it, 5-6seconds and it stumbled to life. Gave me a P0284 code, then turned it off to see if it would start again, it’s did after 7-8 seconds of cranking.
Here is a video of it running when it’s been running for 10min or so after being cold. I cleared the codes before I restarted the second time and got a P0266 #2 contribution code.
Im beginning to think there is a little gremlin in there..
Wasn't a pic of the oil filter, but it did show the EDGE of the FILTER in the background. Looks OEM I guess.
Next , IMO you need to see how many seconds it takes to fill the oil filter housing when cranking. First with the filter housing drain valve closed (depressed), and next with it left open.
FordTechMakuloco shows the filter housing drain valve at about 4:10 in the video below:
Pull the FICM relay when doing this test, or crank with the starter solenoid jumpered. You can see the process on using the starter solenoid jumpered to the passenger battery terminal at the 40 second mark in the video below:
Yes the cap and filter are OEM, I did the crank to fill test and worked fine. Took a 6-8 cranks to fill the chamber up. The drain back valve is working as intended.
I get 200psi max on ICP when cranking hot, no oil pressure showing on the dash. Usually when the dash oil goes up the truck will fire up.
Annnnd back to a high pressure oil leak. Didn’t find anything with the last round of diagnostics.
Went back to basics and did another air test, leaking on the odd side under what sounds like 3 and 7, saw some scoring on the manifold that was deeper then I thought it should be so I replaced the manifold and ball tube orings.
you guessed it! It didn’t change, I had just changed top injector seals - what else could it be in that area between ball and injector? Or are injector seals picky??
Yup both are done with brand new ford parts, obviously the updated ones.
I have been working on it and I think it’s two of my injectors. I put the air nozzle into the top of the injector and oil/air came out the weep holes. I had two that did it and two that didn’t - getting two new injectors later today and fingers crossed.
Yup both are done with brand new ford parts, obviously the updated ones.
I have been working on it and I think it’s two of my injectors. I put the air nozzle into the top of the injector and oil/air came out the weep holes. I had two that did it and two that didn’t - getting two new injectors later today and fingers crossed.
Update, I installed the two injectors. Truck will restart when hot now!! It does take 8-10 seconds to fire up so I may have a couple more weeping injectors. It runs smooth and has throttle response like it should.
You might want to check your fuel pressure. When the pump starts getting weak, the injectors furthest from it - the passenger side injectors, and especially #7 - die first. Ask me how I know. I replaced injectors twice before figuring out that my fuel pump was starving them.
Unfortunately, there's not a fuel pressure PID to check. You have to check it manually. It's actually highly recommended that we install a fuel pressure gauge in our trucks. And keep your filters clean. .
You might want to check your fuel pressure. When the pump starts getting weak, the injectors furthest from it - the passenger side injectors, and especially #7 - die first. Ask me how I know. I replaced injectors twice before figuring out that my fuel pump was starving them.
Unfortunately, there's not a fuel pressure PID to check. You have to check it manually. It's actually highly recommended that we install a fuel pressure gauge in our trucks. And keep your filters clean. .
Not a bad point, the truck sat for over a year before I got it. When I did the filter it was…interesting.
I did add the blue spring but I should look at that. What was easiest/cheapest way to test?
Maybe not cheapest, and a little harder - install a permanent dash gauge. The pump/engine side connection is the same work, just do a permanent install inside the truck, which doesn't cost that much. Others here can recommend brands, there are several on the market. Most would say it's the most important gauge to add - truck still runs with low pressure, long enough to screw your injectors.
Otherwise, you can search this forum for complete instructions. The easiest route seems to be to tap in at the upper fuel bowl, or replace the cap on that bowl with one that has an integrated connection. A Ford tech I used tapped into the fuel line coming out of the pump down on the frame rail. Once you tap in, the gauges are typical. You have to have a long enough hose to snake it under the hood to the windshield where you can see it while driving. The second time you ever do it, you'll wish you'd just done the permanent gauge.
Maybe not cheapest, and a little harder - install a permanent dash gauge. The pump/engine side connection is the same work, just do a permanent install inside the truck, which doesn't cost that much. Others here can recommend brands, there are several on the market. Most would say it's the most important gauge to add - truck still runs with low pressure, long enough to screw your injectors.
Otherwise, you can search this forum for complete instructions. The easiest route seems to be to tap in at the upper fuel bowl, or replace the cap on that bowl with one that has an integrated connection. A Ford tech I used tapped into the fuel line coming out of the pump down on the frame rail. Once you tap in, the gauges are typical. You have to have a long enough hose to snake it under the hood to the windshield where you can see it while driving. The second time you ever do it, you'll wish you'd just done the permanent gauge.
I’ll look at both options, electric gauges are easy to install. Thank you
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