HPOP failure symptoms?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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well , if you get on your truck it would give you SES light, bad fuel milage, poor or long cranking time, lots of problems and indications, but first lets start from your description of the problem??????????????????
let us know, cause HPOP is not cheapo and jumping on it will cost you a lot, you can have your HPOP tested and make sure its not some other thing that causes problems like ICP or IPR
let us know, cause HPOP is not cheapo and jumping on it will cost you a lot, you can have your HPOP tested and make sure its not some other thing that causes problems like ICP or IPR
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
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From: Memphis, TN
Thanks Pete. I'm chasing a long running probem. Rough idle/crappy performance for 15 mins (until warm)...bad vibration...40 mph max After it warms up...you can suddenly feel it 'kick-in' and run fairly normal....but still with a miss and ratty/chatty injector noise comes and goes.....quiet....chatty...quiet...chatty....lugs up hills....but at WOT seems to run fairly well (or at least sounds much better)
So...I am replacing ICP sensor (when it arrives) since mine has oil on the sensor. Would be nice if that were the issue but I'm not sure. I have tested idle with it unplugged but can't tell a difference. Just started wondering if oil pressure somehow changed when the oil got up to temperature. All pre-warm symptoms happened after 4 injectors were replaced. Started wondering if somehow the newer/healthier injectors required more 'ummph' that something else like HPOP / IDM etc...couldn't provide.
So...I am replacing ICP sensor (when it arrives) since mine has oil on the sensor. Would be nice if that were the issue but I'm not sure. I have tested idle with it unplugged but can't tell a difference. Just started wondering if oil pressure somehow changed when the oil got up to temperature. All pre-warm symptoms happened after 4 injectors were replaced. Started wondering if somehow the newer/healthier injectors required more 'ummph' that something else like HPOP / IDM etc...couldn't provide.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
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From: Memphis, TN
Diesel shop in Memphis. Before...was just running a little laggy up hills, had a bad #8 chatter for sure. They said #8 bad, #4 suspect and #5,7 also suspect. I had them replace 2,4,6,8 (not a good idea) since they were already in that side for #8 anyway. Now....warm performance same as before but have this cold idle / performance issue. Have already checked UVC harness and every other harness/short etc. They say codes point alternativly to PCM or IDM. I don't think PCM or IDM (or a wiring issue) suddenly get better after the engine is warm every day.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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and if i were you , and before you going to invest more money to your truck i would see if you can get any of our friends from FTE run AE on your truck and see if they can pull anything out of it when cold, cause low HPOP out would show up, bad injectors will show up.
but pur running truck when cold might be 2 things
1) your glow plugs and GP relay is the problem
2) one or more cylinders has bad compression and when worm it gets better.
3) you have bad or to thick oil in your truck that causes all the problems,
did you try to jump your GP relay with the jumper cables or big screwdriver foe a minute or so and see if it runs better?
and do you get smoke when fired up in the morning and for how long
but pur running truck when cold might be 2 things
1) your glow plugs and GP relay is the problem
2) one or more cylinders has bad compression and when worm it gets better.
3) you have bad or to thick oil in your truck that causes all the problems,
did you try to jump your GP relay with the jumper cables or big screwdriver foe a minute or so and see if it runs better?
and do you get smoke when fired up in the morning and for how long
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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well IDM might cause it,
one way to see is remove your IDM cover in the fender well and grab a Hairdryer or a heatgun BUT be Careful so you dont burn anything, and heat it up for few minutes untill very worm, and if its runing fine than than know. but heat it up before you start your truck.
that might help you OR not , cause they are sealed,
remove the IDM plug and check the connector for water in the plug and corosion on the pins
one way to see is remove your IDM cover in the fender well and grab a Hairdryer or a heatgun BUT be Careful so you dont burn anything, and heat it up for few minutes untill very worm, and if its runing fine than than know. but heat it up before you start your truck.
that might help you OR not , cause they are sealed,
remove the IDM plug and check the connector for water in the plug and corosion on the pins
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
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From: Memphis, TN
Thanks Pete....oil is new and changed at the dealership. Compression check is fine. Truck starts fine, even when cold outside...so I didn't suspect glow plugs. Haven't heard about jumping glow plug relay...can try that if it helps (how?). I would like to check IDM connection or even buy one on Ebay to swap/test with...but don't know how in the heck to get to it. Do you know how?
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Postmaster
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its PITA to remove
its inside driver side inner fender , you have to remove the plastic lining inside where the wheel is to get to it , or just partailly move it out of the way, its closer to the firewall part if memory servs me well. i didnt remove mine yet so can help you to much , ill see if i can find pix or somthing
its inside driver side inner fender , you have to remove the plastic lining inside where the wheel is to get to it , or just partailly move it out of the way, its closer to the firewall part if memory servs me well. i didnt remove mine yet so can help you to much , ill see if i can find pix or somthing
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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yeah i was correct
here
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...+to+remove+IDM
its below PCM like i was pointing you there
here
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...+to+remove+IDM
its below PCM like i was pointing you there
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Modesto, CA
Sounds like your off to a great start! The ICP sensor leaking could be most of the problem. I do know that faulty ICP sensors will cause long cranking to start up.
Also, have you ever replaced your IPR? If the ICP sensor doen't fix it, that would be my next step. As Pete said, find someone with AutoE or a good scan tool. Running diagnostic tests always help!
Also, have you ever replaced your IPR? If the ICP sensor doen't fix it, that would be my next step. As Pete said, find someone with AutoE or a good scan tool. Running diagnostic tests always help!
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Memphis, TN
Yeah....was going to head to the IPR next. Shop said IPR showed good...only codes pointed to PCM once...IDM once...some injectors (different ones each time...including the new ones sometimes). Anyway...IPR looks easy enough to try and change if it is next on the list.
I heard that ICP sensor causes rough idle when bad. Does it affect performance in general?
I heard that ICP sensor causes rough idle when bad. Does it affect performance in general?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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sure it will. a lot this sensor tells you IDM, or PCM what rail pressure you running, this affects your pedal feel, and tells IPR to regulate the pressure too, so if its screwing up everything would go crazy, so try ICP and we go from there.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
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From: Memphis, TN
ICP sensor won on Ebay...on the way now. In the mean time I'm going to change oil to Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 since others have luck with it in cold weather.
My question...if I do have an oil pump issue of some sort (remember...runs much better after 10-12 mins of driving warmup)....would this oil tend to help that problem or make it worse?
Also....can someone explain to me the function of the oil / hpop / injector relationship?
My question...if I do have an oil pump issue of some sort (remember...runs much better after 10-12 mins of driving warmup)....would this oil tend to help that problem or make it worse?
Also....can someone explain to me the function of the oil / hpop / injector relationship?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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well your HPOP needs the oil to drive your injectore , they need about 26-2800psi from your pump to run correctly, you also have lov pressure oil pump that supplies oil to you turbo,blockand HPOP. so relation is simple better oil you run in the winter easyer is to pump it when cold , thus your HPOP can pump it faster- more volume, which at the end makes your injectors work better .and any of those 3 can affect proper engine operation.
and syntetis ahould make it better in cold weather after the wormup its just the same as 15w40, but when cold 5w40 is more liquid. per say.
i dont know if any of it makes sense but i give my best shot
and syntetis ahould make it better in cold weather after the wormup its just the same as 15w40, but when cold 5w40 is more liquid. per say.
i dont know if any of it makes sense but i give my best shot