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ICP fluctuates between 350psi and 400psi
IPR is pegged at 85%
Truck only builds between 1300psi and 1500psi at WOT.
I replaced the HPOP today thinking I had a weak HPOP but I guess I was wrong. I love the truck to death but I'm about to pull the plug on it. I can't think of another possible leaky o-ring this thing can have given that I've replaced pretty much everything that has to do with the high pressure oil system except the branch tube and both oil rails.
If it was me I wouldn't give up. I'd start with a pressure test and look for where I might have made a mistake on installation. Take a step back and go over everything you did. Just my thought.
You did a lot of work.
The problem is I can't do a pressure test when the truck is hot because the icp sits under the turbo. In essence, by the time I remove the air box, degas bottle, ficm, icp, and install the adapter, the engine has cooled enough to the point where the leak won't show or at least to the point where she will start again. I don't want to pull the plug on "Big Red" because it was love at first sight with her but she's letting me down and I don't know what else to do besides dropping in a Jasper 6.0. I can only think of a few options but need insight from more experience 6.0 owners.
1) I used "Standard Motor Products" injector o-rings. I've been told that aftermarket injector o-rings have a high failure rate.
You can do an air test when cold, you just have to wait longer to let the oil get pushed out. I would use 150 psi to 200 psi air (but I personally wouldn't want to go higher).
You should do the air test with the valve covers off. Look and listen for air leakage.
Maybe some spool valves are worn and leaking air?
Lastly, it is better to do the air test through the IPR port (using the special adapter).
A Jasper will eventually get you into a bigger hole.
Yes, you should have used Motorcraft kits.
You can do a hot leak test. Install the ICP adaptor with a high pressure hose that will extend out to where it's easy to reach, route it past the hot spots and wrap it with heat reflecting shedding. Cap the extended hose end. Keep the unplugged end of ICP sensor unplugged so the PCM goes into failed sensor mode. Get the engine hot, shut down and remove your hose cap and attach your high pressure air, then listen for leaks with the IPR engaged, preferably with a 9v batt or use a IPR controller.
Is there a commercially available hydraulic cable to extend the ICP sensor (as a complete mod)? I swear I saw one discussed at one point, but sure can't find a reference now. I realize one can be fabricated if need be.
Does motorcraft sell injector o-ring kits? I looked for them online when I did them a few months ago but did not find any info as far as motorcraft selling the o-ring kits only.
Right around March or April of this year I had a very big problem with my oil getting diluted with fuel. I replaced the crush washers on the injectors and nothing. Turns out the injector bores were filled with carbon deposits preventing the crust washers from making a tight seal. I'd drive about 1,000 miles and I'd drain about 20 quarts of oil hahaha. That problem was solved. Do any of you guys think that the fuel in oil problem caused any major permanent damage? I replaced the injector o-rings, hpop, oil cooler, nipple cups, nipple cup o-rings, standpipe o-rings, and oil rail supply tube o-rings since fixing my dilution problem.
Assuming the o-rings in the HPO system are viton, I wouldn't think that there should be any issue with diesel in the oil. That said, the turbo bearings are the first to suffer from the impaired lubrication if the fuel in the oil exceeds a certain amount for very long (IIRC Ford says up to 5% dilution is "acceptable")
Low oil pressure system seems to be working fine. I asked my wife to crank the engine while I pressed the oil drain back valve inside the oil filter housing and the housing filled up within seconds.