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The purpose of the compression check is to make sure that your base engine is good.
No doubt!
But he has no indication of a base engine problem, that is all I was saying (I was just asking why is it needed now, not what you can learn from a compression check).
Any way to test IPR? I have looked at it and screen is dented but not broken.
I’ll do an air test in the next few days (need to find a fitting).
Any way to test HPOP, it’s an expensive part to “try”
and all of this would cause or definitely could cause a #8 injector balance fault?
again I more then appreciate the help everyone!
You can check the resistance across pins (3-15 ohms is what the WSM specifies).
You can also check to see of there are contaminants in the valve if you remove it.
You can check the resistance across pins (3-15 ohms is what the WSM specifies).
You can also check to see of there are contaminants in the valve if you remove it.
Ok thank you, off I go! It’s about 0f or -20c here so I’ll see my patients tomorrow Hahahha.
so I did an air test with the engine hot. Put air to it from the ICP and I could hear air on both sides after the oil worked it way out. Then I put power to the IPR and heard a click on the valve but no change in sound at all.
before this I started it and let it run for over an hour, then took it for a spin. Was rough had no power until it was over 23-2400rpm but was still a dog. Watched the scanner as I drove and the ICP desired was almost the same as the ICP pressure when off the gas and IPR% was in the 30-40s. When I pushed the gas a little or a lot the ICP desired pressure would show a lot higher then the ICP was showing, during this the IPR% went right to 84.77%.
Truck would not start at all, when we towed it and bump started it fired right up.
I think it’s IPR but want y’all’s professional assistance before I spend $350 for no reason.
Remove the IPR valve
Hook air up an air hose to the bottom of it (do not cover all the "bleed-off" holes with the hose)
Get a spare IPR electrical connector (pigtail). This connector is MUCH better than alligator clips or stabbing wires at the pins inside the connector on the IPR valve.
IPR pigtail part number: 6E7Z-12A690-DA (cheap at the dealership) https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...12a690-da.html
Hook up 9V-12 V power to that pigtail (you will ALSO need a way to turn the power on and off)
(note - if you use 12V, do not leave it applied for more than 2 minutes at a time; let the electronics cool off some after each time of having power applied)
Connect 12V+ wire to the spare IPR connector wire at "pin" A of the connector (left contact point), and 12V- to wire at "pin" B (right "contact" point)
(note - to identify pins A and B, orient the connector with it facing towards you, wiring at the back, with the wider part of the connector that has the rounded edges on the top) https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/resou...71cc4ec7ba.jpg
(also note - the RED wire going to the connector in the engine is 12V positive and the YELLOW/RED is ground)
Connect the pigtail to the IPR valve with the power off
Start air flow through the valve - verify it flows in through the screen and out the bleed holes
Apply power to the IPR valve
Verify all air flow stops with power applied to the IPR valve
Remember when you were told not to buy a kind of running 6.0 but you wanted it… lol
ok replaced the IPR with a new Ford Motorcraft unit. Went to start and it cranks but will not fire. The numbers look good from before m, I have 1600ish psi and 65-70% - but will not fire….
Cranked a bit more and fired right up. Ran smooth like it should. Turned it off and took a couple cranks then fired up. Let it get hot and turned it off and then no start again.
threw a P0263 injector #1 contribution for the first time too.
this time I have no oil pressure on the dummy gauge aka low oil pressure.
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