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Ok I know over and over this has been covered and thank you for the information.
Here’s where I’m at, 350,000miles. Just bought truck and was told it need an injector #8, has a plugged cat, and needed oil/filters. The truck had already been egr deleted and FICM replaced. From what I’m told all this info was from the Ford dealers.
So I got started, replaced #8 injector, changed the stand pipe and dummy plug on one side (other side had new style). Put it back together and started right up but still had a really bad ‘miss’ or was rough running. Thought it was a High pressure oil leak replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on the other side and put another injector in #3 where I could hear air coming through under the oil manifold. Also checked the HPOP and it has the new SCT fitting so nothing needed there. Again fired right up but still was running rough and made zero power but had high boost.
towed it back to where I live and got to work… replaced every o-ring and copper washer on all injectors, replaced the nipple cup Orings (did see some wear on the cups and a little scoring in the #5 cup area), cleaned up #5 oring seat, rebuilt the turbo, added sinister diesel blue spring kit, added 4” Flopro exhaust (plugged cat), S&B intake, all new fuel and oil filters, 5W40 Rotalla, hot shots secret stiction stuff, 2 brand new batteries, and fuel injector cleaner (forget name, good stuff)…….
and fired up after priming, sounded amazing, a lot quieter then any 6.0 I’ve heard, sounds smooth as can be. I left it idle for 45min, went to move it out of the driveway and it felt a little rough not as smooth as before, shut it off and tried to restart, nothing just cranked and cranked, the oil pressure gauge didn’t move. Usually it will go to the middle and fire up but nothing. I put the scanner on it and when cranking it will not go over 240-260psi on ICP - looking for the 500+, the FICM is 47.5-48.5v.
After looking at or replacing every part in the high pressure oil system (except HPOP) I’m still not starting hot and even cold now it’s not. I unplugged ICP and same thing. It did throw three codes P0284-60 for #8 contribution (it’s the new injector), P0299-60 Turbo under boost, and P0472-60 exhaust back pressure sensor (I just cleaned the tube and sensor)…..
Ok I know over and over this has been covered and thank you for the information.
Here’s where I’m at, 350,000miles. Just bought truck and was told it need an injector #8, has a plugged cat, and needed oil/filters. The truck had already been egr deleted and FICM replaced. From what I’m told all this info was from the Ford dealers.
So I got started, replaced #8 injector, changed the stand pipe and dummy plug on one side (other side had new style). Put it back together and started right up but still had a really bad ‘miss’ or was rough running. Thought it was a High pressure oil leak replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on the other side and put another injector in #3 where I could hear air coming through under the oil manifold. Also checked the HPOP and it has the new SCT fitting so nothing needed there. Again fired right up but still was running rough and made zero power but had high boost.
towed it back to where I live and got to work… replaced every o-ring and copper washer on all injectors, replaced the nipple cup Orings (did see some wear on the cups and a little scoring in the #5 cup area), cleaned up #5 oring seat, rebuilt the turbo, added sinister diesel blue spring kit, added 4” Flopro exhaust (plugged cat), S&B intake, all new fuel and oil filters, 5W40 Rotalla, hot shots secret stiction stuff, 2 brand new batteries, and fuel injector cleaner (forget name, good stuff)…….
and fired up after priming, sounded amazing, a lot quieter then any 6.0 I’ve heard, sounds smooth as can be. I left it idle for 45min, went to move it out of the driveway and it felt a little rough not as smooth as before, shut it off and tried to restart, nothing just cranked and cranked, the oil pressure gauge didn’t move. Usually it will go to the middle and fire up but nothing. I put the scanner on it and when cranking it will not go over 240-260psi on ICP - looking for the 500+, the FICM is 47.5-48.5v.
After looking at or replacing every part in the high pressure oil system (except HPOP) I’m still not starting hot and even cold now it’s not. I unplugged ICP and same thing. It did throw three codes P0284-60 for #8 contribution (it’s the new injector), P0299-60 Turbo under boost, and P0472-60 exhaust back pressure sensor (I just cleaned the tube and sensor)…..
Anyone? I’m struggling to know where I should go at this point.
I think that your next step would be to pull the oil filter element and see if the oil pump is filling the housing fast while cranking. If it does, you most likely lost your HPOP but without more sensor readings, it is a guess. I would also suggest a compression check.
I think that your next step would be to pull the oil filter element and see if the oil pump is filling the housing fast while cranking. If it does, you most likely lost your HPOP but without more sensor readings, it is a guess. I would also suggest a compression check.
ok what sensor readings do I need to look at? I have a scan tool - it’s basic but I think does what we need at this point.
I would address P0472 first. It can cause a lot of issues.
P0472 is an electrical code ONLY. It could be the EBP sensor OR the wiring to/from the sensor. Also, it could be an issue with the "signal return" circuit (which is a sensor ground circuit to the PCM) that is shared with several circuits ...... or it could be the "signal" circuit itself. It could even be an issue with the v-reference circuit - which could be caused by issues at the EBP sensor or possibly another sensor on that circuit. The EBP sensor v-reference circuit also supplies the EGR valve and the ICP sensor (Brown wire with White stripe). The signal return circuit is a Gray wire with Red stripe and is common to the same three electronic components (EBP, ICP, EGR).
You might start by unplugging the EBP sensor and seeing if that helps with ANY of your issues. V-reference circuit faults can cause engine stalling and no-starts.
I would address P0472 first. It can cause a lot of issues.
P0472 is an electrical code ONLY. It could be the EBP sensor OR the wiring to/from the sensor. Also, it could be an issue with the "signal return" circuit (which is a sensor ground circuit to the PCM) that is shared with several circuits ...... or it could be the "signal" circuit itself. It could even be an issue with the v-reference circuit - which could be caused by issues at the EBP sensor or possibly another sensor on that circuit. The EBP sensor v-reference circuit also supplies the EGR valve and the ICP sensor (Brown wire with White stripe). The signal return circuit is a Gray wire with Red stripe and is common to the same three electronic components (EBP, ICP, EGR).
You might start by unplugging the EBP sensor and seeing if that helps with ANY of your issues. V-reference circuit faults can cause engine stalling and no-starts.
Ok, when I bought the truck the EBP was unplugged, I think a rookie tech told pervious owner that it was a plugged cat… cat seemed ok when I removed it.
Are you able to help me with what to test for with multimeter or am I just looking for wiring abrasions? Fully able to fix and diagnose but some help would be sweet.
SSM 17522:
SOME 2003-2004 SUPER DUTY F-SERIES AND EXCURSIONS EQUIPPED WITH A 6.0L DIESEL ENGINE MAY EXHIBIT A CRANK NO START, RUNS ROUGH, ENGINE MISSES, BUCKS/JERKS OR LACKS POWER CONDITION. THIS MAY BE DUE TO THE FICM WIRE HARNESS CHAFING ON THE UPPER LEFT VALVE COVER OR VALVE COVER STUD, NEAR THE FICM. REROUTE WIRING AND/OR INSTALL VACUUM CAPS ON STUDS CONTACTING HARNESS. OTHER POSSIBLE SOURCES OF CHAFING ARE IDLER PULLEY UNDER THE THERMOSTAT (WIRING ROUTED AROUND POWER STEERING PUMP), LEFT FRONT VALVE COVER HOLD DOWN BOLTS/STUDS, EBP SENSOR BRACKET AT THERMOSTAT HOUSING, RIGHT VALVE COVER AT GLOW PLUG MODULE, AP/ETC PEDAL WIRES CHAFING AT STEERING COLUMN (ADJUSTABLE PEDAL ONLY), PCM HARNESS CHAFE AT BATTERY BOX AND 12A581 HARNESS CHAFE NEAR C1443 (LEFT REAR CORNER OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT) CKT 1044 (WH/YE). REPAIR AS NEEDED.
Check the wiring in the locations mentioned in the Ford SSM above. Also check the IPR connector and the wiring to the connector.
Also, you can monitor the v-reference voltage with a scan tool. Should always be close to 5 volts.
As far as scan tools go, ForScan and ForScan Lite are the best for reading codes. Thoroughly reading codes is an important thing for 6.0L troubleshooting.
Remove glow plugs and check cylinder compression there. You will look for IPR over 15% and under 85%. ICP over 500 to start and up to 3,000 on high rpm. ICP volts at .24. FICM sync to start.
What leads you to think it is compression? That is a pain to do compared to the other things it might be. Could certainly be the issue, but I would think that would be something to put a bit lower on the list.
ICP volts at .24 KOEO isn't an issue since he tried starting with the ICP unplugged.
Now ICP volts when cranking is important - you need .8 volts to start.
Also, in addition to FICM Sync, you need Cam/Crank Sync, and it IS POSSIBLE to have FICM Sync without Cam/Crank Sync.
Went home to a cold truck. Here is the ICP information cold, KOEO
I cleared all the codes and started right up, zero codes. I thought too good to be true. It was, about 10min after start up it began running rougher. Checked codes and got P0284 contribution/balance #8 - the brand new one. I let it get to operating temperature and here is the reading when it was hot at idle.
Then I turned it off, knowing it probably won’t restart. I was right! (Not impressed though lol) so here are the numbers when cranking (it cranked for a bit and remained the same)
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