Well, I always knew I'd be back here, just as soon as my bus messed up. Never had one go so long without messing up. And here I am. Same problem as last year - lost my turbo; got the p2262 and never more than 2lbs of pressure per TorquePro.

No other issues or codes, I've driven 350 miles today. As long as I'm on flat road, it cruises without smoke, at about 50mph. Going up hills makes it smoke. No power of course. If I push it harder, more smoke and the engine warms up. But, I can't go much further. I gotta cross Tennessee, KY, through Pittsburgh. I can't make it up those hills. So I'm parked at a Walmart somewhere in Louisiana and I gotta get this this working before I can move on.

My memory is getting worse, but I reviewed my old posts here and others and found this, I think originally from Bizmic

P2262: Stuck turbo, MAP sensor, MAP hose plugged up; sensor unplugged, or leaking, CAC leaks, intake leaks, exhaust restriction, EBP sensor or EBP tube plugged.

So, I guess my first step is to confirm whether the turbo is frozen. I have Forscan on my laptop with me, but I couldn't get it to connect to Bluetooth for some reason. I'll try again. That pc version lets you command the turbo. If it can command the turbo on, then I know I got electrical connectivity and that the wiring/connector is prolly good, and that the turbo isn't frozen. If I can't get Forscan to connect, is there any other easy way to see if the turbo is froze? Is spinning the front wheel good - if it turns freely that means it's not frozen? Hmm, doesn't sound right. Unplugging the VGT while it's idling would tell me it wasn't frozen, if I could hear it change the idle. But, if it doesn't change the idle, couldn't it still could be wiring or the connector or the PCM?

Otherwise, those other items are pretty straightforward to check, except the MAP sensor. I know it's usually the hose, but is there anyway to confirm the sensor itself is good? Seems the most likely problem is the EBP sensor - it's such a PITA on this Eseries. How long does it take to clog one of those? I cleaned this one no more than 18months/50k miles ago. Is there anything that causes them to clog up faster? I ask because recall that I bunged up my exhaust manifold bolts trying to remove the down pipes and have them held together with C-clamps. I don't see signs of exhaust leak around them, but if they were, would that cause soot buildup and clog by EBP tube?

The last time, I got so messed up - initially thought it was the turbo and tried to take it off, that's when I bunged up those exhaust bolts. Then, I left a fuel line loose and had a leak that I thought was coolant and spent days trying to find the leak. I don't know exactly what the problem was - the EBP tube was clear from the previous cleaning, but I didn't know to clean the sensor too and it was clogged up. But, I also discovered that my air filter was bad. Hadn't ever noticed the alert because the filter itself looked clean. And, I changed the VGT connector which had a broken clip. So, any of those three things could have been the problem, but it did finally clear up and has run fine since.

I may have seen the beginning of this last trip. I noticed smoke one morning even though I'd let the truck warm up for 20mins. I assumed it was just the cold morning air and didn't see it again. The turbo worked. But, I noticed the other day, when I was servicing it getting ready for this trip, that after starting it, I never heard it do that thing where the RPMs go up after a minute or two of idling at start up. Is that noise caused by the turbo kicking in? If so, maybe it wasn't kicking in.

I have a used turbo with me. Been in the truck for a year now. Without a plug in the oil hole, now that I think about it. If I decide to replace this one, do you think that used one is still good? Turbos are also a PITA on Eseries, much harder than Fseries.

 

OK, I got Forscan to connect, but I haven't started the engine. Letting it cool off so I can look at everything in the morning. Did read codes and it came back with:

DTCs in the PCM: P0620-60 and P2262-E0
DTCs in the OBDII: P2262-C

I lost my password to the diagnostic software I used to use - does anyone know what those subcodes mean?

 

OK, forget the P0620, I've had that generator circuit code for a long time. So, reading up on this, the fact that I'm not getting any other turbo-related codes, like 0299, does that mean anything? I believe this turbo had failed when I started out this morning, but it was pouring down rain, so I kept driving. It didn't show any new/turbo codes for about 200 miles. Then, the CEL came on and the 2262 appeard in TorquePro. Is that just a TP issue? Or there was get no code before that CEL?

Anyway, just wondering if other codes might be pending and will appear soon. And, it seemed like some of the other codes were associated with specific problems, like a sticking unison ring, whereas the 2262, seems more general, an overarching catch-all code. But, IDK. Just hoping I don't have to swap turbos.

Change Topic Alert: does coolant go lower in the bottle when the engine is warm, go higher, or stay the same? Noticed that it was lower today with the engine idling after several hundred miles of driving. It was full yesterday when cold. I'll check it in the morning.

Another topic: what's with the transmission fluid? I can barely see it on the stick. Doesn't have much color. I think I might have overfilled it a little.

 

How does your EBP look? With a locked up wheel I imagine that would be sky high as the turbine isn't spinning.

Have you checked your CAC tubes & boots? Maybe one came off?

 

Nice to read something from you again.

At the van you should be able to check the turbo in installed condition (if vanes are moving). You need to remove the circlip and the plate, then you should be able to move the adjustment on the turbo with a strong magnet.




See my video

 

LOL, it was classic Bonehead. I wrote all that before even looking under the hood. I forgot to tighten the clamps on the upper cold CAC boot. I have to loosen those and spin them out of the way to get my hand through the little space to the upper fuel filter on this Eseries. I forgot to spin them back and tighten them. Drove all that way in the rain figuring I was going to have to dig into EBP, MAP, maybe replace the turbo, and I needed to make my next drop. Probably took an extra hour of drive time without any power, more fuel. If I'd ever just opened the hood, the blown hose was right there. Fixed in 5 minutes. SMH. Bonehead Forever!!!

This bus just keeps rolling. Been such a reliable truck compared to all the others I've bought. Not sure how much longer I do this. Going to start collecting SS soon and may cut back. Maybe turn this into a nicer camper rather than a box truck w/sleeper.

I'm beat. Bout to pass out again.

 

Nice video.... Curious as to why you would coat the vanes with grease. I would think the grease would collect soot and burn up causing coking.

 

Well look who the cat dragged home.

How is everything with you?

 

Pretty good... You get your engine rebuilt yet?

 

Been really busy with work. I
am now working for someone
else and will have more time to
work on projects.

 

Did you buy the ICON heads directly from KDD? I'm looking for a supply option where I don't have to wait a year. I have been waiting for the iron cast heads since June.

 

Yes, that is where I got the heads from. I did use FICMrepair as the dealer.

 

I also ordered mine from FICMRepair, but unfortunately KDD can not deliver.
Last June I had already ordered and paid for the iron cast and now wanted to order the ICON aluminum heads in addition.

 

I made it home with no more issues. But, I think I hear/feel a new vibration (there are so many on these buses). Not engine/transmission though. Sounds like the power steering pump, which has had a small leak for a long time, it's just such a major job on this E-series to replace that I just keep topping up the fluid and letting it go. I only uses a few ounces on a typical 5k mile trip. Maybe it's that or the used tire I bought on the road when I had the blowout. IDK, but I'll figure it out before I leave again.

I've posted before about my low FICM voltages; how they start out low 42-44, and then steady at 47-49 once the engine warms up. And I read elsewhere someone explaining why that is on these cutaways with the long distance from the batteries to the FICM. I don't know if that's true, but I've not had injector issues and it's been that way for 50k miles. I don't drive it though until it's warmed up to 48v. Recall that I'm almost always pulling a trailer and immediately accelerating to highway speeds within the first mile; with that kind of load, often with uphill pulls, I want it to be fully warm before moving.

Anyway, the last couple of trips, I'm wondering if it's taking even longer to get to 48v, maybe this FICM is bad. Being the cheapo, I figure I'll swap in another known good FICM from my 450 and see if it acts the same way. While I have this one out, is there an easy bench test I can do on it to confirm it's performance apart from the truck?