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You're probably going to want to find a t-bolt clamp for that charge air pipe before too long. I'm surprised you haven't blown that aftermarket hose connector off yet.
Me too honestly, I don't know how that thing is still holding. I just haven't had time to run by and go get one and when I do get there I keep forgetting to grab one. It's been holding 20 PSI boost no problem though but I can't stand the way it looks it drives me nuts.
Ok, in all fairness I think it was the on the pipe side and with the original boot. But too funny not to poke about it.
LOL you are right, it was the original Boot thet kept blowing off. This new boot was so tight to get on I just about had to put some kind of lubricant on the boot to slide it down the pipe. I might can run it with no hose clamp
I've been very impressed with these boots actually. Towing for longer distances holding 15 to 20 PSI boost for a decent bit of time it's never had any issues. I'm glad I went this route instead of buying a new pipe and new boots.
I'll post some pictures of my new to me trailer in a little bit as well. Hydra is going to be here monday.
Hid mine under the dash and zip tied the wires out of the way. Found that once I got the tuning correct it was better to be out of sight.
I also 2nd this idea.
I take it to the next step and remove the controller from the ribbon.
If I'm in a bad area, I put it to ( no- start), and take the controller with me.
. That move, and the ICM kill switch hidden within reach under the XXXXX, helps prevent it from moving too far.
Sort of a cheap deterrent.
I'm interested if someone has ever rigged up a motion detector INSIDE the cab area hooked to a very loud Air horn that will drain the battery if you can't find the kill switch.
Got to try out my gauges under load today. I love watching that boost gauge. A buddy of mine hired me to move it. Old 1980 Chevy pickup. Not even 100 k on the clock.
I finally bought my new to me 26 ft enclosed trailer. It is 22 enclosed 4 ft tongue so 26 ft total. I've already been working on it a good bit, I got all the trailer brakes working and fixed all of the lights that were rewired by a ding dong, and I mean that respectively cuz I happen to know the ding dong, what else is funny as he said the trailer rides too low. Well, while servicing all of the brakes, turns out the equalizers in between the leaf springs are broken in half and the leaf springs are riding on the frame! And they're not physically broken, they've just been worn by the bolt clean through. I'll post pictures later when I get off work, but for now here's a quick shot I took before hopping in my truck.
My high idle works now! I'm loving this hydra! Just for kicks and giggles I wanted to try the 140 HP extreme race tune, WOW. My stock clutch is not going to be able to handle any slippage from that. Blows ridiculous amounts of black smoke and builds really close to 30 PSI of boost. I don't actually know how much boost it can build because I kind of got a little scared when I was really getting on the pedal to let it go too far. I let go of the clutch at the wrong time due to the truck being so much more responsive and that higher HP tune just kept spinning the clutch for 2 to 3 seconds before it caught up. It's a completely different shift pattern. I need to be careful on that tune.
If I remember correctly the lower HP towing tunes are for towing more weight correct? And the higher HP towing tunes are for towing less weight right?
I run the PHP 65 HP Performance tune for all forward motion. It doesn't matter if the truck is unloaded or 20,000 lbs GCVW. I use my pedals and ZF6 shifter to control the shift points and acceleration methods.
You can tear the truck up with a tuner, but you can also attain efficiency. Depends on what you are looking to get out of your truck.
Try various tunes at various HP ratings and see what you like and can drive long term.
I run the PHP 65 HP Performance tune for all forward motion. It doesn't matter if the truck is unloaded or 20,000 lbs GCVW. I use my pedals and ZF6 shifter to control the shift points and acceleration methods.
You can tear the truck up with a tuner, but you can also attain efficiency. Depends on what you are looking to get out of your truck.
Try various tunes at various HP ratings and see what you like and can drive long term.
Good to hear the trailer is going to work out.
By different shift points I just meant the truck feels different in the different tune when shifting and I have to change how quick or slow I let off the clutch pedal after putting it in the next gear.
I like the 65 HP performance tune quite a bit. But I do have one question, say you use that term for all Forward movement. What about backwards movement?
With the different tunes my truck sounds different, when getting on the pedal a little bit my turbo is chirping? Or maybe the termonology is fluttering? Is this normal? It sounds cool NGL but, should it be doing that? Kind of sounds like a tuned race car or something.
Google up some YT vids on turbo surge, see if it sounds similar.
It's just like on this video here. Mostly when I let off the pedal is when it does it but, when I was in the 140 HP tune yesterday, it also did it when I started getting up in the RPM pulling hard. It only did it for like a split second. It mostly does it when I let off the pedal.
Upon further research, it seems a new compressor wheel will fix the issue. I watched a video and learned what that fluttering noise actually is. It is bad for the turbo as I'm sure a lot of you already know so I'm not going to try to explain it but for those who may not know I will post this video that I found.
A lot of people were saying either a 1.0 AR housing or a wicked wheel will fix the fluttering. Now that I know this, what should I do? Pull the turbo and rebuild it while it's out and put a wicked wheel? I'm going to see if I can find the bearing and seal kit for it. I think riff Raff has it if I remember correctly.
Riff Raff actually has it listed as a anti surge compressor wheel. Although in the description it says also known as a wicked wheel. The question is, should I rebuild the turbo that has nothing wrong with it while I'm replacing the compressor wheel? And while replacing the compressor wheel do I have to replace the exhaust side as well? Or is this new wheel designed to be balanced properly with a stock exhaust side? And finally, if I don't have to replace the exhaust side, can I replace the compressor wheel without removing the turbo assuming I'm not rebuilding it?? It would seem like I would be able to get to it Just to zip that wheel off and zip new and on.
Edit* riff Raff instructions say turbo has to be removed.
Other edit, how do you all feel about the EBP valve? Keep it or remove it?
Edit 3: I watched the video of a guy changing the compressor wheel still electric but he used an impact. I don't feel safe using an impact on the turbo wheels so I will pull the turbo. I'll be able to twerk the wheel back to spec like this anyway as well. Being as my turbo is in good shape, no play in the bearings and not that old of a turbo based on the new purchase sticker stuck on it from whoever installed it and didn't remove it, so I think I made you change that we allowed and paint the housing and put it back together....
