2000 E350 rear upper shock bolt stripped

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Oct 18, 2022 | 08:43 AM

#16

bengineer

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 168

Likes: 9

From: Nashville, TN

Yep, I have rear A/C as well, but those lines are not as in the way as all the fuel lines. Yeesh.

Oct 18, 2022 | 08:45 AM

#17

bengineer

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 168

Likes: 9

From: Nashville, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWA

Rear A/C doesn't affect rear upper shock attachment. The lines for factory rear heating/cooling are outside the frame rail, shock mount inside.

Frankly the easiest solution is using a reciprocating saw---they tend to eat through the shock stem in a damn hurry.

I have one of those, I'm looking at it as the last resort, I just don't want to risk a spark and it's so close to that fuel tank.

JWA, thank you as always.

Ben

Oct 18, 2022 | 08:45 AM

#18

bengineer

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 168

Likes: 9

From: Nashville, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike1

If he's going to go at it with a saw which he already said wasn't much room, he'd probably be better off using a dremel with a right angle attachment with a cutoff wheel..

Yea, I appreciate your thought on this one and have thought about going after it with a dremel, but that dang fuel tank....

Oct 18, 2022 | 08:52 AM

#19

bengineer

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 168

Likes: 9

From: Nashville, TN

Hey everyone on the thread here, my apologies, I have not been getting notifications on replies to this thread, so I'm playing catchup. I'll check my notifications to see if something has come un-toggled.

I think I may try the nut splitter first, if that doesn't work, I'll block it off with a piece of wood and just rough it off from below with a pipe wrench or channel locks, and I'll have my recip saw on standby. I think it's the safest way to go with some alternatives in my back pocket.

Lesson learned- replace your shocks more often! These have 100Kmi on them and are long overdue for replacement.

Once the rear is done, I'll tackle the front.

Thank you all again for your help and suggestions.

Ben

Oct 19, 2022 | 04:45 AM

#20

JWA

Fleet Owner

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 21,253

Likes: 1,656

From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by bengineer

Lesson learned- replace your shocks more often! These have 100Kmi on them and are long overdue for replacement.

Actually IMHO preparing the shock mounting threaded stems for removal should be the take away here. As I say liberally coating the threaded fittings with anti-seize before inserting them and threading the attachment nuts into place seems to work very well come renewal time. Whether its 50K or 100+K miles bare steel threads tend to rust over quite quickly regardless what the renewal interval.

Oct 19, 2022 | 07:27 AM

#21

bengineer

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 168

Likes: 9

From: Nashville, TN

Trust me, that will be done! Thank you so much.

And I'm so looking forward to replacing the front shocks : )

Cheers and thanks again,

ben

Oct 19, 2022 | 08:05 AM

#22

ojh

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jun 2009

Posts: 197

Likes: 10

I feel your pain, I've been eyeballing my shocks and keep find more urgent things that need replacing, esp after scoping out the front.

Oct 19, 2022 | 01:15 PM

#23

tabijan

Cargo Master

Joined: Sep 2012

Posts: 2,112

Likes: 286

From: Eastern TN

Driver side front is no fun. Pop the grommet for the shift cable to see top of the shock. I used a flexible head box ratchet and lots of time.

Sixto
07 E350 5.4 187K miles

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Oct 19, 2022 | 03:13 PM

#24

econo93

More Turbo

Joined: Aug 2017

Posts: 510

Likes: 69

From: Tucson

Quote:

Originally Posted by bengineer

Yep, I have rear A/C as well, but those lines are not as in the way as all the fuel lines. Yeesh.

I hate to admit it but it's been nearly a year since I've looked at it and have been putting off dealing with it since I don't have a great place to work on it. But I do remember something making access difficult....LOL.

I may give the bolt extractor sockets a try. I have a small pipe wrench and Vise-Grips, so I hope I can get a grip on the rod. My buddy has a reciprocating saw, so I may end up having to use that. Good luck with yours.

Last edited by econo93; Oct 19, 2022 at 03:47 PM. Reason: add info

Oct 20, 2022 | 04:57 AM

#25

JWA

Fleet Owner

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 21,253

Likes: 1,656

From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by tabijan

Driver side front is no fun. Pop the grommet for the shift cable to see top of the shock. I used a flexible head box ratchet and lots of time.

This video offers another way to tackle that too:

Not to harp on the topic of shock brand selection but this operation is where the wrench flats at the bottom of the top shock stem comes in very handy. I am guessing this works on every E-Series from '97 through the 2013's and onto the cutaway's as well