Rear Shock Removal without torch?
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New User
Joined: May 2004
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Rear Shock Removal without torch?
Hi everyone. I seem to have the same problem removing the rear shocks as everyone else. The bolts will not budge from the bushings.
Has anyone had any success in removing the shocks without the use of a torch? It seems like it would be difficult to fit a hand grinder into the tight space at the top of the shocks. It's tempting to just take a hammer and chisel to the eyelets, but with my luck I'd probably just punch a hole in the floor of the van.
Has anyone had any success in removing the shocks without the use of a torch? It seems like it would be difficult to fit a hand grinder into the tight space at the top of the shocks. It's tempting to just take a hammer and chisel to the eyelets, but with my luck I'd probably just punch a hole in the floor of the van.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
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From: SoCal
I wonder if you have enough space to try to pound the bolt out with a hammer? How about getting a pry bar in there to try tp pry it out? If the bolt is rusted to the steel sleeve, and it has broken off from the bushing, you may have no choice but to burn it out. Be careful not to heat the shock up too much, as it may be pressurized.
I had a shock like that once, and when I gave up on trying to remove the bolt, I took the car to my local Sears auto shop. The mechanic used a pneumatic hammer and pounded it out in about a minute. They charged me only $5 at the time. Of course, at that time, their new HD shock was about $10.
I had a shock like that once, and when I gave up on trying to remove the bolt, I took the car to my local Sears auto shop. The mechanic used a pneumatic hammer and pounded it out in about a minute. They charged me only $5 at the time. Of course, at that time, their new HD shock was about $10.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Tottenham Ontario Canada
I used my cutting torch when I replaced the rear shocks in my van. It makes the job fairly easy, but I am sure there are other ways.
If you know someone with a torch, see if they will help you out. As mentioned in another reply, an air chisel under the bolt head should help get the bolt out.
If you are really determined to do this yourself, you could try cutting the shock eye with a dremel tool. after the eye is open and the old shock removed, you would have to cut away the old rubber bushing to get a pair of vice-grips on the sleeve. A dremel is a lot less expensive than a torch set-up. Just make sure you have several small cutting wheels before you start, as you will likely chew up several of them.
Good luck with your repair.
Cheers,
Eric
If you know someone with a torch, see if they will help you out. As mentioned in another reply, an air chisel under the bolt head should help get the bolt out.
If you are really determined to do this yourself, you could try cutting the shock eye with a dremel tool. after the eye is open and the old shock removed, you would have to cut away the old rubber bushing to get a pair of vice-grips on the sleeve. A dremel is a lot less expensive than a torch set-up. Just make sure you have several small cutting wheels before you start, as you will likely chew up several of them.
Good luck with your repair.
Cheers,
Eric
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Joined: Jun 2003
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I was about to do my shocks on my 96 4.0, however, I find I don't have the right tools. Went to Sears tonight and considering buying a compressor with 1/2 Impact, Angle Impact, and Chisel with accessories. I think that will be good enough to get those bolts/nuts off? When you buy new shocks, do they sell the hardware also??
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Northern PA
I don't remember if they came with the upper bolts when I changed mine last. I just went to the hardware store and got a couple of grade 8 bolts and nuts the same size, and it worked great.
Those upper mounts are cheesy at best, but no worse than any of the other vehicles I've owned. I was lucky, changed mine before they got too corroded to come out. I used lots of anti seize on the new bolts when I put the new shocks in.
Those upper mounts are cheesy at best, but no worse than any of the other vehicles I've owned. I was lucky, changed mine before they got too corroded to come out. I used lots of anti seize on the new bolts when I put the new shocks in.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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AeroPA
I decided to take my Aero to the local Farm and Fleet. I am glad I did. I think I would have developed many more undesirable words after I saw the condition of the bolts nuts that had to be extracted.
They torched the front ones. Only the left rear came out with typical air tools. The right rear was air hammer breaking off the shock, torch getting the rest, and then air gun screwing off the nut until it stripped. I did not have the tools so didn't attempt.
Awaiting for Christmas as a new compressor with all air tools and torch set are being asked for. I figured I would have saved about 60$ to do this myself, however; for that amount, let the guys with lifts do it.
Van handles much better. Old shocks weren't that bad, but hardware had broke off 2 of the shocks.
I decided to take my Aero to the local Farm and Fleet. I am glad I did. I think I would have developed many more undesirable words after I saw the condition of the bolts nuts that had to be extracted.
They torched the front ones. Only the left rear came out with typical air tools. The right rear was air hammer breaking off the shock, torch getting the rest, and then air gun screwing off the nut until it stripped. I did not have the tools so didn't attempt.
Awaiting for Christmas as a new compressor with all air tools and torch set are being asked for. I figured I would have saved about 60$ to do this myself, however; for that amount, let the guys with lifts do it.
Van handles much better. Old shocks weren't that bad, but hardware had broke off 2 of the shocks.
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