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Hey everyone, 2000 E350, 355K mi, replacing the rear shocks, got the pass side out (yowch, what a job), and trying to get the driver's side out. I was able to get the bolt most of the way off, lots of penetrating spray. I got the bolt nearly off, but it finally relented and rounded off.
Looking for advice at this point- it's tough to get a saws-all in there and besides it's very close to the fuel tank and any slips would be disastrous.
I've also thought about trying to get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to see if I could cut enough of the nut to get it to break off. Not sure if a lot of how many sparks may be thrown in that move, but it seems like it would only take a sec to do if I can get it in that small space.
Another thought it to try to get some vice grips on the top nut somehow and perhaps a pipe wrench on the upper part of the shock and work it off.
Anyone else been though this? Good news is the new shocks go right in.
Can you slide a metal panel to shield the fuel tank? I’m guessing you’re on your back on the ground rather than a lift. That makes hosing down the tank to suppress sparks messy.
Time to get mad at it and stop being so patient. I saw a u-tube video where a guy simply grabed the loose end of the shock and bent it until the shaft broke off.
Did you remove the spare tire to get some more room to work at least?
Time to get mad at it and stop being so patient. I saw a u-tube video where a guy simply grabed the loose end of the shock and bent it until the shaft broke off.
Since I use Bilstein I'm sure that would not be an easy task!
Originally Posted by Conanski
Did you remove the spare tire to get some more room to work at least?
Without the spare in the way there is an acre of room on top of and behind the cross member. I've replaced a few rear shocks that way.
A good idea is when the replacement shock is installed liberally coat the whole upper stud threads with anti-seize. I also look for shocks that have the hex fitting at the top of the shaft where a back up wrench can help removing the nut. That feature is just one reason I run Bilstein shocks.
You're welcome to go at this any way you choose but for me working that close to the fuel tank seems downright foolish. Not everyone has a "hot wrench" yet I'll bet most of us have access to a reciprocating saw and for this task they're far, far more safe to use.
If he's going to go at it with a saw which he already said wasn't much room, he'd probably be better off using a dremel with a right angle attachment with a cutoff wheel..
If he's going to go at it with a saw which he already said wasn't much room, he'd probably be better off using a dremel with a right angle attachment with a cutoff wheel..
I've removed shocks on three different E-Series from 2000 to 2005 using the method I describe BUT the spare has always been removed first. A Dremel tool is great for a lot of things but nibbling away at a shock stem would work but the reciprocating saw is easier and faster too.
If this guy claims there's no room I have to think that's from a lack of trying---the chassis of the 1997 through 2013 full body E-Series are all pretty much the same, cannot envision how a stock chassis would be so much trouble.
Can you slide a metal panel to shield the fuel tank? I’m guessing you’re on your back on the ground rather than a lift. That makes hosing down the tank to suppress sparks messy.
Can you get a nut splitter in there?
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 183K miles
Thank you for your reply, and sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Yes, I'm trying to work on it on the ground, It feels more secure that way. I like your nut splitter idea, I'd forgotten all about those, and I think there is enough room to get one in there, so I'll give it a try.
Another thought I had was to get a piece of wood in there, get some vicegrips on the top bolt, then wrench it off from below with a pair of channel locks or a bigger pipe wrench. My 2" pipe wrench is not quite big enough to do the job.
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