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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Crank, No start

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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 08:37 PM
  #91  
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Nice shop! Ring compressors ac heat. Where u at?
glad you found problem. I would be concerned with metal migration throughout the motor
 

Last edited by basdog; Jul 24, 2022 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Ok
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 08:48 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Well, if you get real lucky, you might be able to just buy one piston. You could probably button it back up with a fresh oil pump, if you just needed it to run, but that's really not an option I'd be keen on, if it were my rig.
I thought about it, but I couldn’t bring myself to just pull one head off and do one cylinder. If one went. The other 7 are not far behind. I would need at least 8 pistons, and at that point why not freshen up the entire bottom end, leaving the valve train alone of course. I’ve exhausted my funds with this truck so I’m not gonna do that. Don’t even know how to do it anyways. Probably gonna put it up for sale or park it in the bush till I’m ready to burn through my wallet again. Damn shame.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 08:51 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by basdog
Nice shop! Ring compressors ac heat. Where u at?
glad you found problem. I would be concerned with metal migration throughout the motor
thank you! Northwest suburbs of Illinois. North of Arlington Heights, IL
i did have a fairly new wix filter on the engine at the time of failure, who knows but I think the oil filter would have caught it
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 09:32 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
I thought about it, but I couldn’t bring myself to just pull one head off and do one cylinder. If one went. The other 7 are not far behind. I would need at least 8 pistons, and at that point why not freshen up the entire bottom end, leaving the valve train alone of course. I’ve exhausted my funds with this truck so I’m not gonna do that. Don’t even know how to do it anyways. Probably gonna put it up for sale or park it in the bush till I’m ready to burn through my wallet again. Damn shame.
Meh, if you're just gonna try to peddle it, put an oil pump in it, button it back up, and just make the new owner aware that number 8 has a broken piston skirt. It's always easier to sell something that runs, even if it doesn't run for crap.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 10:14 PM
  #95  
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I’m putting the pan back on no pump in place, gonna roll it into the woods and save up for a long block or sell it as is
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 11:29 PM
  #96  
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Yeah bummer, im kiddy corner cross lake mi in Muskegon
 
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Old Jul 26, 2022 | 01:59 AM
  #97  
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I’ll probably pick this thread back up in the winter, I decided to keep the truck. Everything on it is pretty much solid besides the motor, so I’m replacing it with a reman. long block for $2200. Engine probably has 250k on it, maybe even 350k. Idk.. those 5 digit odometers are a real joy. Car fax has a record of it rolling over once back in the late 90’s early 2000’s can’t remember exactly. So it’s probably rolled over at least once more. Anyone have any ideas as to why the piston skirt flew off? Just seems strange. the engine still turns over smooth by hand. Thanks for all the help along the way
 
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Old Jul 26, 2022 | 09:23 AM
  #98  
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If the cylinder is worn, or eggshaped enough, you probably were getting some piston slap, which can tend to put extra stress on the piston skirt, and can break them. It's not *super* uncommon on very high mileage engines, in my experience.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2022 | 08:54 PM
  #99  
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Engine lift points

Looking for the engine lift points on a 351W EFI, guessing i need to remove the upper, maybe even the lower intake to find it. Anyone got a pretty good idea where they’d be? Thanks
 
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Old Aug 2, 2022 | 08:13 AM
  #100  
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If they haven't been removed, the stock lift brackets were attached to the exhaust manifold bolts - passenger side was at the back of the motor, drivers side was at the front, best I remember.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2022 | 02:52 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
If they haven't been removed, the stock lift brackets were attached to the exhaust manifold bolts - passenger side was at the back of the motor, drivers side was at the front, best I remember.
I replaced the stock manifolds with shorty headers from summit, old ones were leaking pretty bad, but I don’t recall the brackets being on there. Think I will just remove the intake manifold and fab a custom plate to the lower intake or heads and lift the engine out that way. What do you think?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2022 | 10:34 AM
  #102  
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That's how I've done it in the past. I've still got a plate in my storage unit somewhere, that is drilled to fit the various 5.0, and the 5.8 lower intake pattern for pulling engines. I just highly suggest that if you *do* build such a thing, that you drill and use *all* of the available threaded holes in the intake, the hardware used for it is fairly small (M8, IIRC) and spreading that load out over the six or eight fasteners (I honestly can't remember how many bolts hold the upper to the lower) significantly reduces the chances of screwing up anything on the lower intake.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 11:32 AM
  #103  
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Hey everyone, letting you all know i bought a reman long block and posted my progress so far in a separate thread, if you are interested. It's kind of a long post, lots to read, stuff most of you know way better than me, but I promised another user on here that I would go into a lot of detail on the process and the steps I took.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20578365
 
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