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Crank, No start

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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:19 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
No, there is no backlash adjustment on a Ford Distributor drive. Assuming the OP bought a basic parts store replacement, it will have the proper cast iron gear on it to go with the stock camshaft. Yes, OEM distributors use a Roll Pin, but I've seen aftermarket ones that use set screws before, and the can and do back out, which is likely why the OP's distributor started acting up in the first place.
good to know thank you. I brought up the gear thing because.. well.. we know what kind of quality some of those aftermarket distributors can be... so never hurts to check.

just a MSD distributor cap had the 1 molded in the wrong spot has me skeptical, let alone petronix cap(gm style) just literally was dimensionally incorrect and did not work and the rotor hit half of the towers on a rotation lol. the coil barely fit on it. hopefully OPs drop in is better than that stuff
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
No, there is no backlash adjustment on a Ford Distributor drive. Assuming the OP bought a basic parts store replacement, it will have the proper cast iron gear on it to go with the stock camshaft. Yes, OEM distributors use a Roll Pin, but I've seen aftermarket ones that use set screws before, and the can and do back out, which is likely why the OP's distributor started acting up in the first place.

heres a few photos, not a set screw.. didn’t look closely enough at it also a couple photos from inside the distributor hole


Old distributor with sheared pin

Different view










 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:27 PM
  #33  
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Ok, that is definitely a sheared roll pin. That *can* just happen with age, but it's not common, usually it's indicative of something else. Could be a bad cam bearing, could be a lifters dug into a cam lobe, could be something broken on one of the timing gears, or the timing chain. That definitely merits further inspection, in my opinion.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Ok, that is definitely a sheared roll pin. That *can* just happen with age, but it's not common, usually it's indicative of something else. Could be a bad cam bearing, could be a lifters dug into a cam lobe, could be something broken on one of the timing gears, or the timing chain. That definitely merits further inspection, in my opinion.
Is that chain in the background there(Timing chain?) of concern? it doesnt look like its engaged very much to to gear/sprocket
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
Is that chain in the background there(Timing chain?) of concern? it doesnt look like its engaged very much to to gear/sprocket
i saw that too and it does give me some cause for concern…
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
Is that chain in the background there(Timing chain?) of concern? it doesnt look like its engaged very much to to gear/sprocket
Good eye. That chain is loose as hell. I'm betting money you've got skipped teeth due to the chain being that loose. You're going to be removing a timing cover. Lucky You!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Good eye. That chain is loose as hell. I'm betting money you've got skipped teeth due to the chain being that loose. You're going to be removing a timing cover. Lucky You!
I did all this work to get this thing running, drive it for 15min and it just shut off. This is a non interference motor correct? Truck ran excellent when it was last on the road before it died. Didn’t sound bad when it shut off going down the road
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:47 PM
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It's not *impossible* for a valve to hit a piston on these engines. Aside from the potential for the bolts that are common to the water pump and timing cover, doing a timing chain on the 5.0 and 5.8 is pretty straightforward and not overly expensive to do. But you definitely want to fix this, before it *does* create a condition where you've got the valve timing so far out of whack that it could cause a valve to contact the piston. You'll really never get the timing accurate either, if you don't fix it.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
It's not *impossible* for a valve to hit a piston on these engines. Aside from the potential for the bolts that are common to the water pump and timing cover, doing a timing chain on the 5.0 and 5.8 is pretty straightforward and not overly expensive to do. But you definitely want to fix this, before it *does* create a condition where you've got the valve timing so far out of whack that it could cause a valve to contact the piston. You'll really never get the timing accurate either, if you don't fix it.
I won’t put it together like this, it’s a confirmed issue and a rather serious one like you said. Wish I didn’t have to remove my power steering and a/c… my a/c works, just got it working this summer. maybe I can keep everything connected and only remove the power steering and a/c bracket to remove the water pump. I do have the 1990 5.8 so there is no fuel pump to worry about
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:55 PM
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you can move the A/C pump out of the way without disconnecting the hoses if you're careful, I've done it plenty of times.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 12:03 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
you can move the A/C pump out of the way without disconnecting the hoses if you're careful, I've done it plenty of times.
Tomorrow I will Begin taking everything off, any parts I should replace while I am in there? Im thinking just the Crank sprocket, cam sprocket, timing chain, maybe a new water pump.
Think I’ll run a compression test too since all the plugs are out
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Tomorrow I will Begin taking everything off, any parts I should replace while I am in there? Im thinking just the Crank sprocket, cam sprocket, timing chain, maybe a new water pump.
Think I’ll run a compression test too since all the plugs are out
I dont know how small block fords tension the chain but its standard/customary to replace the tensioning unit in a timing chain job. I also would verify your sprockets/gears are not worn down and needing replacement. my car, for example, has a very complex plastic metal gear which was mostly done for noise and to extend the life of the tensioner and etc... which surprisingly is reliable, but if you get in there, its a guarantee to need replacement.

since you will have you timing cover off, does your oil pan leak? dented? want to paint it? nows your time lol
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 01:38 AM
  #43  
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you said you have a 1990, and the only reason I post this is because Ive got a 1990 small block(5.0 presumably..) thermostat/hose outlet and I believe it crosses to a thunderbird or a truck, I forget, but I doubt I will ever use it.(nothing against small block ford just dont have any need for one)

 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 02:11 AM
  #44  
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Timing chain should consist of only a chain and two sprockets no tensioner I’m pretty sure, they all go on together, only way to remove and install the timing chain is to pull both cam and crank sprockets at once. Currently tearing into it now… I just did my thermostat a month ago, so I should be okay with my housing but I will let you know

thankfully my oil pan doesn’t leak, what really irks me about ford is that you can’t really remove the pan on these trucks without pulling the engine, same thing for the powerstrokes, the 7.3 DI’s at least.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 03:08 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Timing chain should consist of only a chain and two sprockets no tensioner I’m pretty sure, they all go on together, only way to remove and install the timing chain is to pull both cam and crank sprockets at once. Currently tearing into it now… I just did my thermostat a month ago, so I should be okay with my housing but I will let you know

thankfully my oil pan doesn’t leak, what really irks me about ford is that you can’t really remove the pan on these trucks without pulling the engine, same thing for the powerstrokes, the 7.3 DI’s at least.
Well thats a problem I dont have (2wd and i6 and 96) lol
Ah my question about tensioner was because my car has a v6 with a balance shaft I am pretty sure, so it has to loop more than just the crank and cam. If your engine uses keyways make sure to use new ones. Im not sure if there is an endplay check or whatever but good time to make sure you dont have any play on the cam and crank thats excessive too
and without pulling your oil pan, just be mindful of things falling down and maybe use the right stuff on the sealing surface you disturb taking the cover off
 
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