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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Crank, No start

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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 09:29 PM
  #61  
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No, not as late as 1990. That's a $5 part that the beancounters would have had kittens over, if they'd just left it in there. If we were talking about 1988, where they'd been carbureted the previous year, I could see it, but not on a '90. 1987 was the last model year in the US that you had a 351W with a Mechanical Fuel pump, and in 1988 the timing cover lost the hole for mounting the pump.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 09:50 PM
  #62  
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New set is in, put a dab of blue loctite on the cam sprocket bolt. Couldn’t really find any torque values on alldata.com for the timing cover or any bolts for the water pump and crank/cam sprocket. Any of you have a list of the torque specs?

Also the gasket kit I bought for the engine to put it all back together, should have everything I need, including some extra parts it seems for the old timing cover with the on engine fuel pumps (parts I don’t need). So I won’t be using those parts obviously.. not sure if I should use those little triangular cork gaskets for the oil pan bolts to timing cover, as well as the oil pan gasket ring (the black semi-circle) also the blue water pump gasket in the top left is not being used
because it’s not a part of this 1990 351W
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 10:41 PM
  #63  
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I always used the gaskets, even the little corner pieces, with some black RTV where they connect to the old oil pan gasket, and at the junction between the black rubber and the cork.

As far as the torque specs? I know they exist, I just always did them gudntite
 
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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 08:43 AM
  #64  
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Snicker, Gudntite
maybe -->1996 Bronco/F-Series
 
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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 10:29 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
Snicker, Gudntite
maybe -->1996 Bronco/F-Series
Hey, you spend enough time out in the sticks, you don't always have a torque wrench with you, you make due.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 12:14 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Hey, you spend enough time out in the sticks, you don't always have a torque wrench with you, you make due.
indeed, there’s a reason the term human torque wrench exists
 
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Old Jul 18, 2022 | 01:17 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
I always used the gaskets, even the little corner pieces, with some black RTV where they connect to the old oil pan gasket, and at the junction between the black rubber and the cork.

As far as the torque specs? I know they exist, I just always did them gudntite
Tomorrow I’m going to cut the front portion of the old oil pan gasket and throw in all the new gaskets, coated with rtv… I’m pretty sure that’s what needs to be done but would like some affirmation before I do
 
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Old Jul 18, 2022 | 05:28 PM
  #68  
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I couldnt bring myself, to cut the pan gasket, after I seen it was the metal impregnated, so I loosened 2 more bolts, on each side of oil pan, and RTV top and bottom, of the gasket, smeared around so it wouldnt , oooz a lot, when I went back together with it, hasnt dripped/oozed in 18 months.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2022 | 05:32 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
I couldnt bring myself, to cut the pan gasket, after I seen it was the metal impregnated, so I loosened 2 more bolts, on each side of oil pan, and RTV top and bottom, of the gasket, smeared around so it wouldnt , oooz a lot, when I went back together with it, hasnt dripped/oozed in 18 months.
Yeah, it does depend on whether you've got the cork, or the rubber/metal gasket there already
 
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Old Jul 18, 2022 | 05:38 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Yeah, it does depend on whether you've got the cork, or the rubber/metal gasket there already
If you look further up in the thread I have a picture of the engine block with the timing cover off, you can see the blue rubber oil pan gasket, looks to be in pretty good shape. Didn’t leak oil from there before, so I may just do that, leave it on and coat it in RTV and throw it back on. No cutting required
 
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Old Jul 21, 2022 | 07:17 PM
  #71  
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New problem?

Hey everyone. I got the timing cover and water pump on, I was on vacation for a few days and got back to finally finish this project. Well everything went smoothly but I’m still trying to put the distributor in. Well when I went to install the distributor I remembered I needed to turn the oil pump shaft in order to put the distributor back in. Well I got a 1/4 drive with a 5/16in socket, and I can’t turn the oil pump drive… it’s like it’s locked in place. Can’t turn it either direction. Got a lot of ideas running through my head at this point, maybe this is what created my no spark condition in the first place. What do you guys think? Any suggestions? Really Wish I noticed this before
 
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Old Jul 21, 2022 | 07:43 PM
  #72  
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Not unless the teeth were sheared off the distributor gear, or cam gear, no.

Are you just trying to turn the pump drive with like your fingers? Because it does take a bit of torque to turn it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2022 | 07:47 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Not unless the teeth were sheared off the distributor gear, or cam gear, no.

Are you just trying to turn the pump drive with like your fingers? Because it does take a bit of torque to turn it.
Im using a long T-handle, I’ll try using a ratchet with more leverage. No teeth are sheered, but if u remember the old distributor had a sheared rolling pin that holds the gear in place. I guess I was thinking the oil pump drive froze and the pin for the dizzy sheared. I doubt it but that’s what I thought it could be. Again I’ll get back to you in 15min or so
 
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Old Jul 21, 2022 | 07:49 PM
  #74  
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That would cause the pin to shear in some cases, yes.

And if you can't turn the oil pump drive, with a little pressure on a ratchet, I'd say that's a pretty good indicator that the oil pump is shot.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2022 | 07:55 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
That would cause the pin to shear in some cases, yes.

And if you can't turn the oil pump drive, with a little pressure on a ratchet, I'd say that's a pretty good indicator that the oil pump is shot.


Used this 1/4 ratchet. About 7inches long. Thought I was gonna bust my knuckles. Oil pump drive will not turn either direction.
 
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