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Timing chain should consist of only a chain and two sprockets no tensioner I’m pretty sure, they all go on together, only way to remove and install the timing chain is to pull both cam and crank sprockets at once. Currently tearing into it now… I just did my thermostat a month ago, so I should be okay with my housing but I will let you know
thankfully my oil pan doesn’t leak, what really irks me about ford is that you can’t really remove the pan on these trucks without pulling the engine, same thing for the powerstrokes, the 7.3 DI’s at least.
OH And since you are doing this work make sure you get a new balancer since you will be able to know your timing marks are accurate too!
Good call! I could barely make them out as it is (timing marks)
Any suggestions on which RTV to use? There’s like 4 different kinds and I despise using it when I have to haha
I will check the parts store tomorrow and see what they have as far as timing chain kits and if they have new keys, Im also going to set the timing marks before taking everything off so I can just throw the new sprockets and chain on without having to move the top end. I’ll be sure to take some pictures so you can see the carnage
Good call! I could barely make them out as it is (timing marks)
Any suggestions on which RTV to use? There’s like 4 different kinds and I despise using it when I have to haha
I will check the parts store tomorrow and see what they have as far as timing chain kits and if they have new keys, Im also going to set the timing marks before taking everything off so I can just throw the new sprockets and chain on without having to move the top end. I’ll be sure to take some pictures so you can see the carnage
well instinctually Im saying The Right Stuff (permatex) but im not sure if, scientifically, it would be the best or not.
Tomorrow I will Begin taking everything off, any parts I should replace while I am in there? Im thinking just the Crank sprocket, cam sprocket, timing chain, maybe a new water pump.
Think I’ll run a compression test too since all the plugs are out
You're replacing the crank gear, cam gear, and timing chain, regardless. That's what's included in a timing set. There is no "tensioner" on the timing chain on these engines. Just buy yourself a good quality replacement (Cloyes generally makes good quality double roller replacements.)
Other than that? No, there's not really anything in there *to* replace. Some guys might argue for replacing the oil pump, if you've got everything apart anyway, but I don't really think that's a particularly useful thing to do, unless you were already having oil delivery issues. It isn't as if this is a carbureted engine with a fuel pump eccentric or anything else in there to concern yourself with.
Good call! I could barely make them out as it is (timing marks)
Any suggestions on which RTV to use? There’s like 4 different kinds and I despise using it when I have to haha
I will check the parts store tomorrow and see what they have as far as timing chain kits and if they have new keys, Im also going to set the timing marks before taking everything off so I can just throw the new sprockets and chain on without having to move the top end. I’ll be sure to take some pictures so you can see the carnage
"The Right Stuff" or other oil rated RTV, which are generally going to be black, with the newish EZ colour scheme.
The new timing gears will have marks on them, just bar the engine over to TDC, and if the marks are *NOT* lined up with your existing worn out timing set, you'll need to line them up before installing the new ones.
How should I find TDC for #1 piston if I can’t trust or confirm the timing marks to be accurate, due to possible yet unknown chain slippage? Chain has about 3/4in deflection
maybe I need to do the same thing as if I was to set the distributor? Turn the engine over and have an assistant tell me if it’s on the compression stroke for number one cylinder, then stop turning, then use a screwdriver to find the TDC of cylinder one? (Because the harmonic balancer is off)Then confirm the timing marks are lined up on the sprockets?
The gears/sprockets do not slip. Line up the dots as close as you can then install the new gears and timing chain. Verify the dots still line up then done.
Pull the #1 spark plug, stick a screwdriver, or wooden dowel, or something in the hole, and bar the engine over, just watch whatever it is, until you see it just start to try and travel back down, you can pull the valve cover to verify that both valves are closed, or use something like a borescope to see if the valves are open or not. That's TDC. You just have to make sure both valves are closed, or you might be mistakenly timing it to the exhaust stroke.
The gears/sprockets do not slip. Line up the dots as close as you can then install the new gears and timing chain. Verify the dots still line up then done.
I believe SFaulken’s concern was that the timing chain could have jumped a tooth and therefore the timing would no longer be correct on the sprockets
If you've got the thing at TDC, and the timing marks on the existing cam and crank gears line up, you're fine, just pull them, and put the new ones on. I guess *technically* you don't have to line them up before pulling the old ones, as the gears only go onto the cam/crank in one position, it's just something that I like to verify, especially in the case of a failing timing chain/timing gear.
I believe SFaulken’s concern was that the timing chain could have jumped a tooth and therefore the timing would no longer be correct on the sprockets
Whoa whoa whoa. Wait a minute. Why the hell does it have a fuel pump eccentric on the old cam gear? There's literally no reason for it to be there on an EFI engine.
Whoa whoa whoa. Wait a minute. Why the hell does it have a fuel pump eccentric on the old cam gear? There's literally no reason for it to be there on an EFI engine.
Funny ford things? Or incompetent previous owner… he was a bonehead
The only possible reason for that to be there, unless somebody was just brain dead when they did the timing set, is if it's an earlier engine that got swapped in there. Not that it actually *means* anything, it's still a 351W/5.8 I'm just always curious when I see stuff like that, because there's no way that was put there by the factory, or any mechanic that didn't have his head up his ****. It's not hurting anything by being there, it's just un-necessary
The only possible reason for that to be there, unless somebody was just brain dead when they did the timing set, is if it's an earlier engine that got swapped in there. Not that it actually *means* anything, it's still a 351W/5.8 I'm just always curious when I see stuff like that, because there's no way that was put there by the factory, or any mechanic that didn't have his head up his ****. It's not hurting anything by being there, it's just un-necessary
No offense the people in Eastern Tennessee but that’s where I bought the truck, from a mechanic. He knew his stuff but he was an odd ball. Everything I’ve touched so far on this truck has been tampered with, and some things that were done were definitely a “good enough” moment
The only possible reason for that to be there, unless somebody was just brain dead when they did the timing set, is if it's an earlier engine that got swapped in there. Not that it actually *means* anything, it's still a 351W/5.8 I'm just always curious when I see stuff like that, because there's no way that was put there by the factory, or any mechanic that didn't have his head up his ****. It's not hurting anything by being there, it's just un-necessary
Is it possible ford used the same cams from carb to efi until they switched over ? or maybe a parts run-out?
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