Good to know thank you. Just got the TFI out gonna go get a new one. Someone’s been down here before, I had Phillips heads holding the TFI in place. Marked the distributor so I hopefully don’t need to time it

 

Some Aftermarket TFI modules come with Phillips Head screws, rather than hex. Some guys replace the Hex with Phillips just for easier serviceability, and I think basically every aftermarket replacement distributor that came with a module on it had Phillips Head screws. I think it got done many times, because guys were swapping those modules out every five minutes, because they were either using the wrong schmoo, or no schmoo at all, and burning up their modules, and got tired of dealing with the little tool and the hex head bolts.

 

forgot to mention I sprayed starting fluid in the intake this morning and didn’t get any ops or bangs, I got a standard motor products TFI comes with a lifetime warranty, so I’ll use their schmoo and if it ends up being an issue I’ll get a replacement and use thermal paste like you suggested

 

Replaced the TFI and the truck still doesn’t want to start. Same as last time, no pops or bangs or anything.

 

Stop throwing parts at this....

How To Test The Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted)

 

Thanks for the Link came in pretty useful! Tests 1 and 2 passed, Test 3 I didn’t get a blinking test light, and for the 4th test I bought an LED and probed the #1 connector, it did not blink either. According to the test results I have a Fault PIP (crankshaft position sensor) located inside the distributor, so I need to replace said sensor which is hard to do, easier to buy a whole new distributor so I’ve heard. Well my cap and rotor have quite a bit of black corrosion on them as is so I will need to buy a new distributor tonight.

 

their schmoo, is still wrong, its dielectric grease, also. It will die, a slow and painful death.

 

Alright alright I’ll buy thermal paste and put it on when the new distributor comes In. You convinced me!

 

your life but if you are already replacing the distributor get the heat sink and then mount the Module on the fender so you dont have issues from the heat next to the engine

 

A failed PIP sensor is quite common on these trucks. The hard part is getting a good NEW distributor. It's a crap shoot to find a good one and not end up with the same problem.

 

I went with a WAI global distributor, fingers crossed

 

Took the old distributor out and noticed the gear in the dizzy was sheared from its set screws so it could turn and independently from its shaft.. sometimes it catches itself and can stay wedged but definitely needed replacement. I proceeded to take all 8 plugs out and got 10 BTDC compression stroke on the crank pulley. All set to throw in the new dizzy. Cleaned up the crud around the edges where the dizzy sits and proceeded to install. Darn thing went in initially but wouldn’t seat all the way so I manually cranked the truck to get the dizzy seated. It looked like it kind of seated itself from up top but maybe not all the way, and tried turning the crank manually with a socket but it gets stuck and won’t budge.. I really don’t wanna push it hard and break something expensive. I’ve heard people just bump the starter to get it in all the way and that’s that. But I’m afraid I’m not doing something right. Not sure if I should keep this thread going or open a new one either

 

Sometimes the starter bump thing works, but oftentimes it will just bind up the teeth on the distributor gear, with the drive gear on the camshaft, when it doesn't line up with the hex on the oil pump driveshaft, and then shear the teeth off either the distributor gear, or the camshaft.

Pull it back out, get yourself a 1/4" socket on a long extension, and use that to reposition the oil pump driveshaft, until you can get the distributor to seat cleanly by hand.

 

I have never had a ford distributor out and in my hand but are you sure its a set screw? i would think they would use a roll pin which if that is sheared im a little concerned about what caused that. spark knock, firing order, just overall timing out of wack? Also did you be sure to get a... soft metal gear distributor? (iron, if you still have a flat tappet cam) vs a hardened gear, which to my knowledge could wear a stock tappet cam rather quick.

and make sure to set the backlash (Im assuming thats a thing on fords too)

 

No, there is no backlash adjustment on a Ford Distributor drive. Assuming the OP bought a basic parts store replacement, it will have the proper cast iron gear on it to go with the stock camshaft. Yes, OEM distributors use a Roll Pin, but I've seen aftermarket ones that use set screws before, and the can and do back out, which is likely why the OP's distributor started acting up in the first place.