Or design a proper kit that doesn't require hacking/burning a fuel line.

 

No hacking on the SPE kit, but the return fuel line coming off the screen housing has to be rotated 180*, which does twist the plastic line a bit. That is my only complaint on the install. Open the hood and look at the OEM filter and you see what look like factory lines with the push clip fittings, then look at the S&S kit and you can immediately see aftermarket. Thats what sold me on SPE, the fact that the lines look like they were from the factory and not an obvious aftermarket item. I looked at all the fuel lines on my truck and none of them are band clamped rubber hoses to a fitting. Thats the turn off for me with the S&S. When I say plug and play, it is just that, on the input side, their breakout fitting slides on the OEM pipe and is clamped in place, then they supply an oem style fuel line that plugs right into the filter housing. Remove the solenoid from the fuel pump, install the new bypass fitting and reattach the solenoid, then screw the new bypass fuel line with flare fittings the pre-installed flare angle pieces, and done. The return is the same, unplug the line from the steel line, insert their filter and clamp in place, then plug the existing fuel line into the fitting on the filter housing. Done, on a once over you don't even know it was there, have to look for it to see that it is installed. Nothing was cut, nothing modified, and can be returned to stock without buying any new parts, or repairing anything that was cut. With the S&S kit, one glance at the OEM fuel filter and it is very obvious that something was done.

I am sold on the S&S filter though, and will get one ordered soon to compliment the SPE kit.

 

Let us know how the project goes with combining the two kits. I'm curious now.

Good luck.

 

I don’t get the “return to stock” thing. Stock sucks. Removing a plastic line and replacing with rubber is an upgrade. Though An OEM style connector to slip on the steel line would be a nice addition to the SS kit. (As I’ve stated previously)

 

I'd have to say I'd agree with that mentality of replacing the OEM plastic line that was preheated so it would confirm to the steel line, cutting it off and using a quality fuel grade rubber hose with what I'd assume is a fuel line clamp, is an upgrade. OEMs like to keep it as cheap as possible to save money.

So if I'm understanding this correctly, the steel line must have a hump or 90 degree "line" coming off of it so that plastic hose has something to grab on to. And replacing that with an automotive fuel grade rubber hose with a clamp is most certainly an upgrade.




So if you're saying the S&S solution of adding a rubber hose/clamp is a hack, then the factory's way of heating a plastic fuel grade hose to grab onto the steel return line must be a "hack" also -- because the factory way you have no way of removing that line to repair something on the return line. But with S&S's rubber hose with clamp, that can be taken off and put back on again.

While I can certainly understand that S&S could have possibly added another quick connector on that rubber hose, but I'm thinking they tested it with the way that it is and it worked. Plus they probably kept the cost of the kit down by doing that for the 20 plus MYs.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Agree with Dave. I think people just aren’t used to seeing worm clamps on these modern trucks. The factory doesn’t use them so they stick out. The factory also doesn’t put ghetto air filters on these trucks but that doesn’t seem to stop anybody.

 

"Ghetto air filters..."



LMARTFO!!!

EDIT

With that said, I do want an S&B cold air intake... But man is that comment effing funny Jolly!