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That’s it, return filter assembly. That one is the 9 micron filter.
Yes sir.
Or you can go with the Racor Parker SNAPP filter set up with clear body. You can buy the bracket/filter set for first time use then but replacement filters after. The SNAPP filters are available in 2,10 and 30 micron ratings.
S&S CP4 DPK Q&A FORD 6.7 Diesel Superduty Powerstroke
Me:
I watched your 2 new videos about the DPK.
Also we have a few forum threads going on it.
Question. The 9 micron filters were opened to show the metal accumulation.
Shouldn’t we open the engine bay fuel filter and check for metal accumulation? The engine bay filter is 2 microns. This means that the fuel system….tank and all….would still have 8 micron to 2 micron metal particles until the fuel passes thru the second filter.
Also, why did you guys stop using the 2 micron filter and replace with a 9 micron one.
Great job other wise. S&S Diesel Motorsport
Great question, the main reason that led to the design change, was supply issues with the Parker Racor filters, as they were unable to keep up with our demand. The filters are still available, but they could not supply us with the amount we were needing consistently, and were forced to make a change. Donaldson has assured us that they will have no problems keeping up with our demand. The Donaldson filter is rated at 9microns at 99% efficiency, and have spent months doing real world testing ensure the filter meets our standards. We are getting closer to publishing the data on the filtration of the Donaldson filter. We did not feel the need to check the factory filter because if debris did make it to the filter and to the injector we would have seen signs of metal debris when we tested the injector on our test bench.
Under normal/stock circumstances, when a CP4 fails, it sends damaging metal debris through the pump outlet to the rails and injectors….as well as it sends significant amount of debris through the pump return which goes back to the tank. So if you have a CP4 fail, your fuel cooler (between engine and tank), the tank itself, electric fuel supply pump, all lines, etc are heavily contaminated and often need replaced and/or thoroughly cleaned and hope for the best. Including dropping the tank, etc. With our kit and the return side filter, the bypass block on the pump prevents the debris from damaging your injectors. And in addition, the return filter catches the debris coming from the pump return, and doesn’t allow it to contaminate all those components from the engine to the tank, and from the tank back to the factory filters. Repair time and cost is DRASTICALLY reduced in the case of a CP4 failure if you’re running our Gen2 (or soon to be released Gen2.1) CP4 bypass kit.
Below are some links to some videos on our YouTube channel that explain more about the CP4 function and bypass kit design. These are older videos, and we’ll be releasing more soon with better audio/video quality and specific to the Gen2.1 design. Keep in mind the bypass kit video is describing our older original design before we did an improved redesign, and added a return side filter. But it may help explain the plumbing and overall function.
Those SNAPP filters should last pretty long when used as a return filter. I have an extra one and haven’t decided when I really should replace it.
i think if I change it early, would be useful to reuse the filter on my diesel generators.
I bought an extra two. Still gotta have mine put in. I'm so damn busy, I'm going to have one of my more mechanically skilled friends do it. Don't have a second vehicle to drive nor the place to have sit so rather just pay them and get it done. Same with my Air Dog.
As to when to change, I'll have to see what it looks like when I change the fuel filter set in the truck... I follow the 3 oil changes interval. I monitor fuel pressure at the HPFP on the iDash.
We should probally do a forum net and greet about u installed projects and have an assembly line to get everything installed. I’m not afraid of the fuel system others might be. Those that are afraid of the fuel system might be good at installing suspension or other products.
We should probally do a forum net and greet about u installed projects and have an assembly line to get everything installed. I’m not afraid of the fuel system others might be. Those that are afraid of the fuel system might be good at installing suspension or other products.
To be honest, I'm not afraid of it. But I know how I am. I may get it apart and run into a problem and not finish it. Plus I've been working like a dog so very busy. If I had a 2nd car for myself, I wouldn't give a schitt. My one friend is a mechanic who owns a shop and I have confidence in him. My other buddy works at a collusion shop and has mechanical repair experience. I just want it done and they both have a bigger tool set than myself. I already have all the instructions printed out, bought a set of new intake gaskets so good to go.
Last edited by Overkill2; Jun 11, 2022 at 10:29 AM.
Reason: Add to post
Aquabloc® elements are available in three different ratings, including:
30 micron (98%@30 micron) – Ideally suited as a pre-filter to protect downstream filters from excessive contamination. Extends the life of on-engine filters. Flow up 26 gph (129 lph) in both gasoline and diesel using the SNAPP™ filter.
10 micron (98%@10 micron) – Captures more contaminants than 30 micron elements, and is more effective at stopping water. Extends the life of the entire fuel system. Flow up 34 gph (129 lph) in gasoline and 26 gph (98 lpm) diesel using the SNAPP™ filter.
“2” micron (98%@4 microns) – Provides maximum water removal and filtration and is capable of protecting all modern injection systems, while greatly extending the life of difficult-to-service on-engine filters. Flow up 40 gph (151 lph) in gasoline and 26 gph (98 lpm) in diesel using the SNAPP™ filter.
I'm checking with them to see if they can provide the filter unit with the fitting that goes to the pump return side set 180* from what it is now. The SPE exit piece going to the tank is the opposite of factory and I noticed the return link has a slight kink to it now from being turned 180. Any and all protection one can add to the fuel system on these trucks ensures the HP side remains clean and working. The pump (actually pumps, not the CP4) and injectors are known to last a very long time with clean fuel, the crank part of the pump though is the crippling factor. If Ford had their act together they would have done this years ago.
The hardest part is pulling the top half of the intake….the bolts have retainers and don’t come off….and at h on to everything. You have to use my split hose trick.
The hardest part is pulling the top half of the intake….the bolts have retainers and don’t come off….and at h on to everything. You have to use my split hose trick.
Did Ford change things up on the intake between 2012 and 2019? Mine came right off, and the hardest part of the entire process was cleaning the carbon gunk build up inside the lower intake. Second hardest was reaching the front bolt on the solenoid on the CP4.
Did Ford change things up on the intake between 2012 and 2019? Mine came right off, and the hardest part of the entire process was cleaning the carbon gunk build up inside the lower intake. Second hardest was reaching the front bolt on the solenoid on the CP4.
min my 19 there was about 1/2 inch clearance.
top half kept getting cuaght on everything going out and in.
i cut some hoses to half inch lengths then slit them on 1 side. Put one ender each bolt to keep it up so the bolts ends would not get caught on anything.
