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DPK; Does it work?

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Old Jun 1, 2022 | 01:32 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Pugga
Awesome, thank you for posting this! Going back and forth on getting a DPK. IF I end up getting one, I'd go S&S, still on the fence as to whether I'm going to bite the bullet or not... I'm in the camp of not really 'needing' a diesel, fuel prices keep going like they are, my next project is looking like a much, much longer commute, I may jump back to a half ton pickup...

yes, moving out of diesel into something else is always an option.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 09:33 AM
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I installed an SPE kit. All plug and play install. Has a microscreen return filter that is installed inline that just plugs right in. The key to any DPK is the ability to split the fuel delivery between the pump housing and the pump drive system. The fuel return also must have a filter on it, without that, any metal from the pump can get into the fuel system return, and get back into the tank. It could then damage the in tank lift pump, but the filters should prevent any from reaching the pump itself. The damage caused by an unsplit CPA is caused by the metal coming from the crankcase into the pump and being distributed to the injectors is what is most costly. All the fuel rails are one shot use, so everything has to be replaced when it goes bad. The DPK true purpose is to prevent THAT disaster from happening, and I know the SPE design does by adding that return filter as well as how their pump adapter works.

Any and all damage to the fuel system caused by the CP4 is post filter, so keeping anything from the crankcase from getting into the pump itself, is key. A lot of the kits do not have a return line filter, so make sure whichever one you choose has one, or you add one yourself.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 09:51 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by acdii
I installed an SPE kit. All plug and play install. Has a microscreen return filter that is installed inline that just plugs right in. The key to any DPK is the ability to split the fuel delivery between the pump housing and the pump drive system. The fuel return also must have a filter on it, without that, any metal from the pump can get into the fuel system return, and get back into the tank. It could then damage the in tank lift pump, but the filters should prevent any from reaching the pump itself. The damage caused by an unsplit CPA is caused by the metal coming from the crankcase into the pump and being distributed to the injectors is what is most costly. All the fuel rails are one shot use, so everything has to be replaced when it goes bad. The DPK true purpose is to prevent THAT disaster from happening, and I know the SPE design does by adding that return filter as well as how their pump adapter works.

Any and all damage to the fuel system caused by the CP4 is post filter, so keeping anything from the crankcase from getting into the pump itself, is key. A lot of the kits do not have a return line filter, so make sure whichever one you choose has one, or you add one yourself.

the problem with the SPE kit is that the return screen is 25 microns. Injector holes are 6 microns.

the s&s gen2 kit has a 2 micron return filter.

 
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 10:01 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
the problem with the SPE kit is that the return screen is 25 microns. Injector holes are 6 microns.

the s&s gen2 kit has a 2 micron return filter.

The filters already on the truck will stop any from getting back, but, the SPE screen is easy to inspect. If you find metal in that screen, you will know you have a CP4 issue. The S&S filter is not visible, so you will never know the CP4 is toast until you are left stranded with a broken pump. Besides, one could always add their filter into the return with the SPE kit too. Nothing says you can't overprotect the system. The filter shown in the video above is not the filter being sold today.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 10:59 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by acdii
The filters already on the truck will stop any from getting back, but, the SPE screen is easy to inspect. If you find metal in that screen, you will know you have a CP4 issue. The S&S filter is not visible, so you will never know the CP4 is toast until you are left stranded with a broken pump. Besides, one could always add their filter into the return with the SPE kit too. Nothing says you can't overprotect the system. The filter shown in the video above is not the filter being sold today.
Say what? My return filter has a clear bowl where you can see the 2 micron media. Doesn't get any easier than that. I don't agree with S&S switching to a spin-on filter.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 12:20 PM
  #21  
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I believe they switched to the spin on filter head because they were having problems with supply from Racor Parker. I bought an extra two SNAPP filters with no drain and with the 2 micron rating but the body is white. Bought them from either Dieselfiltersonline or another marine website. If memory serves me, I believe they did not make a black body in 2 micron without the drain at the bottom. So I'm thinking Racor Parker made them specifically for S&S. Extra SNAPP filters for the gen 2 kit can be sourced elsewhere and are cheaper than what S&S had them listed for.

EDIT

Listed here it shows that the "no drain" filters only available in the white body which IMHO is not a deal breaker.

https://ph.parker.com/us/en/snapp-di...eparator-racor
 

Last edited by Overkill2; Jun 3, 2022 at 03:42 AM. Reason: add to post
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 04:49 PM
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Yeah the billet filter head looks cool but I'll stick with the SNAPP filters. As Dave pointed out, they can be purchased.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jollyrogr
Say what? My return filter has a clear bowl where you can see the 2 micron media. Doesn't get any easier than that. I don't agree with S&S switching to a spin-on filter.
Only those who already have the kit that came with it. The new kits sold today, do not. Thats what I am referring to. The SPE has two allen head bolts to inspect the screen for debris. Adding the S&S filter can help improve filtration if it makes you feel better, but the SPE kit is still one of the best compared to many others. No cutting, everything plugs right in. You can add the SPE return filter to the S&S if you don't have an inspection bowl, but if you don't, then the only way to check is to cut the filter open.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 08:25 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Only those who already have the kit that came with it. The new kits sold today, do not. Thats what I am referring to. The SPE has two allen head bolts to inspect the screen for debris. Adding the S&S filter can help improve filtration if it makes you feel better, but the SPE kit is still one of the best compared to many others. No cutting, everything plugs right in. You can add the SPE return filter to the S&S if you don't have an inspection bowl, but if you don't, then the only way to check is to cut the filter open.

when the SPE kit first came out, I bought one. After receiving it and understanding how it works….I decided it would do me no good to check the screen and find particles greater than 25 microns and know that particles 24 microns and below got thru. So I did not install the SPE kit and still have it .

about the same time the S&S gen2 kit came out. I bought and installed the S&S gen2 kit.

so I have both kits. The prettier billet SPE kit which I never installed and the S&S gen2 kit which is installed.

I later found out that some folks are having low fuel rail pressure with the SPE kit. The SPE folks did a rebuttal video about that using a modified fuel delivery system says “what low fuel pressure problems”.

i would definitely say that the SPE kit is better than all the copy cat gen1 kits .

the copy cat gen1 kits have a very small path separation. Between the injector flow and the bearing flow paths. These small separation points clog and particles back up and enter the injector path. Folks with gen1 kits have had full fuel system failures implying the gen1 DPK did not help them.

the SPE kit and the S&S gen2 kit increased this path seperation to over 1 foot. There isn’t enough bearing material to fill this increased length path.

Only time will tell if a 25 micron screen is good enough.

 
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 08:59 AM
  #25  
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I agree. I may add the S&S filter at some point for more protection. Usually when the pump goes though, it flakes off first before the cam starts grinding into tiny bits, so the flakes are an early warning to imminent failure. The surfaces of the cam are plated, so it breaks apart into flakes which the screen captures. The factory filters will capture what ever got through the fine screen. The after filter though will help protect the in tank pump from particle abrasion, so it is a good idea. Not knocking the S&S, just pointing out the differences of the kit as it is sold Today. The clear bowl is a great idea, don't need to mess with fuel on your hands, or spend 10 minutes pulling the cap.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 09:55 AM
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Overkill2

fantastic

Its very informative.


very creative investment of time and resources by S&S.

 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 10:58 AM
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The Filter is what sets this one apart from the rest. Going to see about adding one to the SPE kit. Convinced me that it is a needed investment. Keeps it ALL out of the tank.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 11:24 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
fantastic

Its very informative.


very creative investment of time and resources by S&S.
Originally Posted by acdii
The Filter is what sets this one apart from the rest. Going to see about adding one to the SPE kit. Convinced me that it is a needed investment. Keeps it ALL out of the tank.
you can most definitely do this. They sell the automotive locking connectors. I'll see about the links I have as I had to research because I'm installing an Air Dog and needed more fittings because I'm retaining the factory primary pump. I'm at work but I'll post up later.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
The Filter is what sets this one apart from the rest. Going to see about adding one to the SPE kit. Convinced me that it is a needed investment. Keeps it ALL out of the tank.

You will need an extra hose with matching quick connects.

if you down load the s&s gen2 install instructions, review it, that will tell you how the return filter installs.

it does not install in the same place as the spe return filter.

the tools to crimp the hoses and quick connect are inexpensive and come with clamps.

gettibg the right size make and female quick connects will take some guess work. I needed a few and wound up buying a pretty board range of sizes .

Maybe S&S sells the extra hoses preassembled.

 
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