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You do need to remove the factory plastic line from the steel line and that is a non-reversible step. The gen1 kit actually had you cutting the steel line.
The only improvement I’d like to see to the SS kit would be a better way to connect the DPK hose to the steel line instead of slipping it over and putting a hose clamp on it.
You do need to remove the factory plastic line from the steel line and that is a non-reversible step. The gen1 kit actually had you cutting the steel line.
The only improvement I’d like to see to the SS kit would be a better way to connect the DPK hose to the steel line instead of slipping it over and putting a hose clamp on it.
Hey Jolly, how hard is it to remove that plastic line from the steel line? I know you have to hit with a source of heat. What did you use for the heat? I'm thinking I'd use a heat gun.
You do need to remove the factory plastic line from the steel line and that is a non-reversible step. The gen1 kit actually had you cutting the steel line.
The only improvement I’d like to see to the SS kit would be a better way to connect the DPK hose to the steel line instead of slipping it over and putting a hose clamp on it.
Ok, so you ARE still hacking the lines up with the S&S kit.
[QUOTE=jollyrogr;20445964]You do need to remove the factory plastic line from the steel line and that is a non-reversible step. The gen1 kit actually had you cutting the steel line.
You do need to remove the factory plastic line from the steel line and that is a non-reversible step. The gen1 kit actually had you cutting the steel line.
The only improvement I’d like to see to the SS kit would be a better way to connect the DPK hose to the steel line instead of slipping it over and putting a hose clamp on it.
ok, now I know what you guys are talking about....on 2020+ models you have to heat gun a line so that you can pull it off. I dont think I would say that was not reversable..a 23 dollar crimp clamp kit should take care of that..
Hey Jolly, how hard is it to remove that plastic line from the steel line? I know you have to hit with a source of heat. What did you use for the heat? I'm thinking I'd use a heat gun.
the heat gun step to remove a hose is a 2020+ step.
not rich either.
my 2019 f-450 lariat ultimate costed me 68k to finance, 25k trade in value, financing the balance at 861 a months for 8 years. im ar the end of year 3. bought it new. the list was 80k, the dont walk out the door yet price was 71k, and I dont remember how it got down to 68k. my trade sold in 2 days for 32k so the made 7k on my trade and they probally had it sold the minute I walked in the dealership since I left all my mods on.
wish I would have got a 2020 for the gen3 engine.
this truck has to last either till the wheels fll off or I cant afford to make the payments.
I bought a 6.7 sole becuase of the DPK bypass. you cant DPK bypass a 6.4. I had a 2010 6.4 f-450 Harley Davidson edition I bought used for 39K. dumpped 15k into doing mods and upgrades. was always spooked about the CP3 and the lifters, so when I learned the 6.7 could be DPK'd, that was it for me. was paying 450 a month for the 6.4, so 6.7 is costing me a little short of double.
That reference was to myself about being rich. No way I'm getting rid of my 16. And I'm in no position to get a new F450 AND keep my 16. I bought my wife a new to her car last year so I'm in no position to get a new AIuma-Duty. No way I'd want to take on additional debt now with the economy and inflation schitt show now. I too would want the 20+ 6.7 with increased power and the 10R140.
Anyways I'm glad to hear that the step of pulling apart that line doesn't apply to my 16. As to saying that that step is hack job, so is SPE's use of Teflon tape on their system in a modern day high pressure diesel fuel injection system as I'd rather use a rubber hose and a clamp than Teflon tape on fuel system fittings, unless you could use a fitting sealant that hardens if that's safer.
I tried 555 thread sealant which was diesel rated on my afe lift pump and it blew out after 1000 miles.
My AC system that I installed has 120/350 PSI lines and there was no need for tape of thread lock. The machine quality of the threads were compressive in nature.
Thread tape only becomes an issue of it is improperly applied. Never leave ANY hanging over the beginning of the threads, That is how it gets into whatever is flowing. When threading the pieces together, the action of tightening the parts pushes the tape up the threads, moving it away from the beginning of the piece, so it will never come into contact with the fluids or gasses. Do it wrong , especially if it is applied backwards, and yes, it can get into the system. No need to fear the tape. I hear the same crap from guys who think they are experts with hydraulics saying you can't use tape on hydraulic fittings. Well I called one of them out and told him go call Kubota and tell their engineers they are doing it wrong and see what they have to say. Their hydraulic kits come pretaped. Every hydraulic line that was NPT that I did not use tape on, leaked, regardless of how tight I got them. Some type of sealer is required for 3K+ fluid pressures. Liquid sealers have a far higher risk of contamination than properly applied thread tape.
Hey Jolly, how hard is it to remove that plastic line from the steel line? I know you have to hit with a source of heat. What did you use for the heat? I'm thinking I'd use a heat gun.
I think you already found out it doesn’t apply to your truck but for all those with a 20+, make a shallow cut with a razor knife so as to not score the pipe, and then heat with a micro butane torch. It’ll come right off.
When I installed the gen 2.0 kit on my Dad's 2016 I had (still have) an issue with the return line that goes back to the fuel tank. Similar to how you have to remove the hard plastic line from the steel line on the 2020. The return line is hard plastic that mounts to a steel line. When removing the quick connection for the return the clip broke off the end. I didn't have access to a new barbed quick connect fitting and hose to fix it. I did have a quick connect with a short piece of hose on it. Was able to use a barb fitting to splice the two together but since the plastic line is so hard it had trouble sealing. I talked to S&S about replacing the line and they didn't have any. With some time and heat cycles I was able to seal the barbed connection with only a little residual. IMO this line (return line) could stand to be replaced with a rubber line and clamp. When I first put it back together the CCV box made it almost impossible to get to the plastic/steel line connection and fix. Since then the CCV has been deleted and opened up an area to work on it. Luckily it hasn't leaked since but an aftermarket replacement line for the return would be great. For now, just don't accidentally break a quick connect clip.
I think you already found out it doesn’t apply to your truck but for all those with a 20+, make a shallow cut with a razor knife so as to not score the pipe, and then heat with a micro butane torch. It’ll come right off.
because who WOULDN'T want to use a torch on the fuel line of a 70-80-90 thousand dollar truck?
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