CPS Causing P0284?
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CPS Causing P0284?
Some quick background. 2002 F350, auto 4x4, 265k. Been dealing with horrible gas milage all winter. I finally pulled codes and they all were pointing towards EPBS/tube. Swapped them out along with a leaking ICP that I found while cleaning engine bay. Truck sat for about 2 weeks, I finally finished up repairs today and started her up. There sounded like a tick coming from passenger side of engine that wasn’t there when I parked it before the repairs. I did a buzz test all sounded similar. After warming it up to operating temp I did the contribution test and P0284 was found. Would that code also be stored were other error codes are or would it only show during a contribution test?
Is there any chance hitting the CPS while installing the EBPS/tube caused this?
Is there any chance hitting the CPS while installing the EBPS/tube caused this?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Likes: 367
From: Republic of Texas
Welcome..
First hope you went OEM on the parts as these engines do not like non OEM sensors and control items.
Second I bet you have the gray CPS in the truck. That is a known false code for the CPS to throw on #8 injector.
Clear all codes and the run them again.
Run a buzz test to confirm they all fire. You will get all 8 on the first buzz then 1 through 8 in order. First buzz will be fairly loud then the 1 though 8 should sound about the same.
You need to do this in a fairly quiet area with the hood open. I would recommend doing it engine cold and then after you get everything up to temp.
Also winter mileage tends to go down due to the winter fuel mix. Based on your name I can pretty much guarantee you had winter mix.
First hope you went OEM on the parts as these engines do not like non OEM sensors and control items.
Second I bet you have the gray CPS in the truck. That is a known false code for the CPS to throw on #8 injector.
Clear all codes and the run them again.
Run a buzz test to confirm they all fire. You will get all 8 on the first buzz then 1 through 8 in order. First buzz will be fairly loud then the 1 though 8 should sound about the same.
You need to do this in a fairly quiet area with the hood open. I would recommend doing it engine cold and then after you get everything up to temp.
Also winter mileage tends to go down due to the winter fuel mix. Based on your name I can pretty much guarantee you had winter mix.
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Thanks.
This was more than the usual winter mix loss. Went from 12-15 to 6-8. All parts that were replace were OEM from reputable places RiffRaff and Tasca Parts. I ran a buzz test and all sounded good but then I ran the contribution test and that’s when the code showed. It doesn’t show where the other codes are stored though. My concern was a slight ticking that wasn’t there before the replacement of the parts. could the false code from the CPS cause this and could I have knocked into it while changing the EPBS and tube. I dropped the wrenches and crows feet a few times. Also why would the code be there now after these replacements but not before? Appreciate your response.
Edited: Buzz test was cold and contribution after it was up to temp.
Edited: Buzz test was cold and contribution after it was up to temp.
Welcome..
First hope you went OEM on the parts as these engines do not like non OEM sensors and control items.
Second I bet you have the gray CPS in the truck. That is a known false code for the CPS to throw on #8 injector.
Clear all codes and the run them again.
Run a buzz test to confirm they all fire. You will get all 8 on the first buzz then 1 through 8 in order. First buzz will be fairly loud then the 1 though 8 should sound about the same.
You need to do this in a fairly quiet area with the hood open. I would recommend doing it engine cold and then after you get everything up to temp.
Also winter mileage tends to go down due to the winter fuel mix. Based on your name I can pretty much guarantee you had winter mix.
First hope you went OEM on the parts as these engines do not like non OEM sensors and control items.
Second I bet you have the gray CPS in the truck. That is a known false code for the CPS to throw on #8 injector.
Clear all codes and the run them again.
Run a buzz test to confirm they all fire. You will get all 8 on the first buzz then 1 through 8 in order. First buzz will be fairly loud then the 1 though 8 should sound about the same.
You need to do this in a fairly quiet area with the hood open. I would recommend doing it engine cold and then after you get everything up to temp.
Also winter mileage tends to go down due to the winter fuel mix. Based on your name I can pretty much guarantee you had winter mix.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Likes: 367
From: Republic of Texas
Your tick noise may just be the injectors firing.
How old is the oil?
Proper oil without any additives?
I will not go down the oil war path but there are some good ones and some not so good ones out there. Some of these oils can help with the ticking noise or make it worse. Personally I run Triax Fleet Supreme 15W40 and it made a dramatic difference in the sound and smoothness of the engine, as much as smooth and quiet as a 7.3 can be... The gal at Sonic can actually take my order with the engine running now. Updating the oil may or may not help.
How old is the oil?
Proper oil without any additives?
I will not go down the oil war path but there are some good ones and some not so good ones out there. Some of these oils can help with the ticking noise or make it worse. Personally I run Triax Fleet Supreme 15W40 and it made a dramatic difference in the sound and smoothness of the engine, as much as smooth and quiet as a 7.3 can be... The gal at Sonic can actually take my order with the engine running now. Updating the oil may or may not help.
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Tick
Ok, the “tick” was definitely on the passenger side. I will clear codes tomorrow and see what happens. I’d love for this to not be an issue. Thanks for the rapid responses.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,111
Likes: 4,716
From: Henderson, NV
Here are the pinpoint tests for your MY truck. The manual indicates you should perform pinpoint test NA25 for your DTC. I hope this helps.
It must be noted that it is pretty common for cylinder 8 to give a false CCT DTC though. Unless the engine is loping really badly, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
It must be noted that it is pretty common for cylinder 8 to give a false CCT DTC though. Unless the engine is loping really badly, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2021
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i cannot offer any advice on the tick but i can say that i have tried 3 diff colored cps's in my 99 7.3.
the gray one always fails #3 and #8. now the blue one failed #5 and #8 and the new black one for the obs didnt even start the engine. i only performed the contribution test once on each. i have also had one of the grey ones fail at 80 mph on the innerstate and the engine died. that is not supposed to happen with the grey one but it did. i wouldn't worry about #8 failing a contribution test but i would wonder about the ticking.
here is an interesting write up from way back..... https://www.thedieselstop.com/thread...s-test.257398/
the gray one always fails #3 and #8. now the blue one failed #5 and #8 and the new black one for the obs didnt even start the engine. i only performed the contribution test once on each. i have also had one of the grey ones fail at 80 mph on the innerstate and the engine died. that is not supposed to happen with the grey one but it did. i wouldn't worry about #8 failing a contribution test but i would wonder about the ticking.
here is an interesting write up from way back..... https://www.thedieselstop.com/thread...s-test.257398/
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perrybmw
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Mar 17, 2006 08:07 PM