Still no start..Bad CPS?
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Southern Illinois
Still no start..Bad CPS?
My truck failed to start one evening, replaced te CPS with a Carquest part. It started and ran good enough to get home, but died several times on the way. I had a friend hook his scanner up, and got 3 codes: 1219, 1670, and 344. The 344 being the code for a bad CPS, I replaced it with another CPS from Carquest and unhooked my chip. Now it will NOT START. With the 1st new CPS, I didn't think the tach moved while cranking like it should (but at least it would run-sometimes). Now with the new CPS, the tach jumps like it should while cranking, but no start. Anyone have any ideas? I'm really close to taking it to a dealer, but it will really hurt my pride to see my truck on a trailer instead of in front of it.
BTW- Since I began having this trouble, I have changed the oil and fuel filter.
BTW- Since I began having this trouble, I have changed the oil and fuel filter.
Last edited by 79man; Nov 23, 2006 at 08:29 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
There have been several people including myself that have had bad results (P0344) with a carquest CPS. replaced it with an OEM from ebay and all was better.
I was getting all kinds of codes when that carquest part was in and Failing CCT tests. But it all cleared up with the OEM CPS.
There is only one test when 1219 shows without a few others that you didnot mention.
KA13 CHECK FOR INTERMITTENT SHORT TO GROUND ON THE CID CIRCUIT 817 (Y/LB)
Key off.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Disconnect IDM.
Check for intermittent short to ground on CID circuit.
Measure resistance on (CID) Circuit 817 (Y/LB) between PCM Test Pin 96 and ground Pins 25, 51, 76, 77, 91 and 103.
Grasp the harness close to the IDM connector. Wiggle, shake the harness while working your way back to the PCM connector, while looking for a spike on the DVOM.
If resistance falls below 10K Ohms fix the short.
If it doesnt clear the codes and see if it returns.
I was getting all kinds of codes when that carquest part was in and Failing CCT tests. But it all cleared up with the OEM CPS.
There is only one test when 1219 shows without a few others that you didnot mention.
KA13 CHECK FOR INTERMITTENT SHORT TO GROUND ON THE CID CIRCUIT 817 (Y/LB)
Key off.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Disconnect IDM.
Check for intermittent short to ground on CID circuit.
Measure resistance on (CID) Circuit 817 (Y/LB) between PCM Test Pin 96 and ground Pins 25, 51, 76, 77, 91 and 103.
Grasp the harness close to the IDM connector. Wiggle, shake the harness while working your way back to the PCM connector, while looking for a spike on the DVOM.
If resistance falls below 10K Ohms fix the short.
If it doesnt clear the codes and see if it returns.
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Junior User
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From: Southern Illinois
Thanks for the quick reply amiller, but you are way over my head! I don't even know what a breakout box is! Is it possible that the Carquest CPS has caused all of the codes? I've got an OEM CPS on its way from ebay. I'm gonna put it in, and if that don't fix it I guess it's off to see the dealership.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Elroy, Wisconsin
I had a no start problem as well...changed the cps and still wouildn't start. I then removed the power chip from the power module and it started. I had to jiggle the chip a little when I put it back on the power module, but it has been working ever since. Try removing the chip if you have one
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Junior User
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From: Southern Illinois
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Central, Al
That eliminiated the CPS and tach movement during cranking rules out wiring issue for the 344 code.
The 1219 is the most troubleing since if it is not a short in the CID circuit wire it is time for a new IDM. Do you feel comfortable Ohming out that circuit?
The 1219 is the most troubleing since if it is not a short in the CID circuit wire it is time for a new IDM. Do you feel comfortable Ohming out that circuit?
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Junior User
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From: Southern Illinois
I haven't had a chance to test my IDM with all the family home for the holidays, amiller. But if it's bad where do you guys suggest buying a new one. Should I stick with OEM, or is there an aftermarket place you prefer. Thanks for all your help guys!
Post Fiend
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From: Central, Al
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From: Southern Illinois
Gave up and decided to take my truck to a dealer. As a last effort, I got out the owners manual and pulled/checked every fuse that had anything to do with the pcm or idm. After not finding any blown fuses, I hit the key one last time ......... and to my surprise the old gal fired right up. I went ahead and took it to the dealer anyway. Long story short, he couldn't find anything wrong with it except a bad MAP sensor. He said it was registering a barometric pressure of 14 when it should have been around 29. He drove it on a 20mile round trip w/his scanner hooked, and got no codes. Any ideas?
Post Fiend
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From: Central, Al
14 = 29
Baro at sea level is 14.7 psi which translates to 29.92mm/hg that we are used to seing on the weather channel. Now the MAP reads the actuall pressure (in psi) in the Intake Y. Then the PCM calculates MAP - Baro (integrated into PCM) to come up with Guage Pressure (Actuall boost) psi. You can actually read all of these PID's so when he says the MAP is bad because the Baro is 14 I gota ?? to make sure he is just not trying to sell you a part.
Baro at sea level is 14.7 psi which translates to 29.92mm/hg that we are used to seing on the weather channel. Now the MAP reads the actuall pressure (in psi) in the Intake Y. Then the PCM calculates MAP - Baro (integrated into PCM) to come up with Guage Pressure (Actuall boost) psi. You can actually read all of these PID's so when he says the MAP is bad because the Baro is 14 I gota ?? to make sure he is just not trying to sell you a part.
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From: Southern Illinois
No, I'm not gonna replace it. He thinks maybe my chip has went bad. I'm gonna drive it for a few days and see how it does. If it seems fine, I'll try hooking the chip back up. Thanks for all your help!
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