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So 30 k miles after I had a reman manual trans put in my truck it dropped some pin and got stuck in overdrive. Shouldn’t back on warranty they fixed it. Had it put back in the truck have drove about 4000 miles. The other day I was coming up to the dump I shifted into first gear and my hand hit the dash my first thought was oh man it drop that pin again. Made it through the intersection shifted to second and it went lots of play in the shifter though. That was yesterday, Kept shifting fine just had a lot of play. As today went The play in the shifter got worse finally I slow down to for a light tried to grab second Went all the way back to My knee Tried to throw it forward to first or third and it got stuck now the stick won’t move at all. Do you guys think it’s the pin again. This is on my 99.5 with a zf6
Sounds like the roll pin that is in the top of the tabs under the shifter tower. Holds the little cup deal that shift ball sits down into. I had mine almost fall out onetime and shifter would just flop around. I took shift tower off trans and was able to use a pry bar and get roll pin stuck back in. I then put a couple round of safety wire around it and tightened it up with some safety wire pliers and never had a problem out of it since.
Also wanted to add it has been doing a hard shift for low reverse and first maybe 500 miles after most recent trans went in. Maybe clutch fork?
Easiest way to confirm or eliminate the clutch as a culprit for hard shifting is to try it with the engine off. If the engine is running and the clutch is iffy, the syncros will prevent you from putting it into gear. Shut off the motor and then there's no more motion on the input shaft, it will shift like butter if the engine is off. This is for clutch diagnosis only. It will also show out a bad pilot bearing as well.
Easiest way to confirm or eliminate the clutch as a culprit for hard shifting is to try it with the engine off. If the engine is running and the clutch is iffy, the syncros will prevent you from putting it into gear. Shut off the motor and then there's no more motion on the input shaft, it will shift like butter if the engine is off. This is for clutch diagnosis only. It will also show out a bad pilot bearing as well.
shifted smooth truck off but trouble when running.
When I bought the truck I searched for one with a manual and now I’m kinda wishing I had an auto because I think it could possibly hold up. I still can’t believe they make 400/400 injectors and I have half that and it definitely makes some serious power
shifted smooth truck off but trouble when running.
That would confirm that the trouble is not in the transmission. Clutch disengagement is failing somewhere, whether it's the master/slave assembly, or something down inside the bell housing. "Easy" fix is the external master/slave assembly. Anything else, the transmission has to come out and address.
That would confirm that the trouble is not in the transmission. Clutch disengagement is failing somewhere, whether it's the master/slave assembly, or something down inside the bell housing. "Easy" fix is the external master/slave assembly. Anything else, the transmission has to come out and address.
I am not a ZF6 guy so I'm sure someone will be along if I get this wrong. I have read that getting the hydraulic circuit bled properly is problematic which is why ZF6 guys replace it as a complete, pre-bled unit of master and slave cylinders together.
I am not a ZF6 guy so I'm sure someone will be along if I get this wrong. I have read that getting the hydraulic circuit bled properly is problematic which is why ZF6 guys replace it as a complete, pre-bled unit of master and slave cylinders together.
they sale it as a one piece unit slave and master together they come bench bled
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