Hello All,

Well, she HAD been running like a top for these last 2 plus months. Went out this Monday and she had to crank for about 15 seconds before the engine fired and ran. Rest of the day she was perfect. Went out yesterday and the engine would crank fine but not start. I have 60PSI fuel pressure and 1400+ HPO system. I can hear the injectors buzzing when I turn on the ignition along with the vacuum pump (LOL). I pulled the fuel filter cap off and when I turn on the ignition it fills immediately. I tried disconnecting the ICP sensor and still wont start. I tried disconnecting the IPR and still wont start. I drained some coolant and removed the degas bottle and checked the FICM connectors and all three are firmly seated. I tried my spare PCM/ECM and it still wont start. No DTC's listed.

Today I dug out my laptop and fired Auto Ingenuity. I can't find a listing for the cramp position sensor. Is it labeled something else? I did find cam position sensor Failure and Level monitors, but both read zero when cranking. So not sure if it is reading correctly. Got the following numbers though;

FICM 48-49 volts continuous
FICM logic power is steady at system voltage of 13v on a charger and drops during cranking as usual.
ICP PSI 1480-1680 during cranking
ICPR % bounces around between 14 and 66 during cranking
ICPV is steady at 1.4V during cranking.

So. I'm thinking crank position sensor? IDK. Thanks, B.

 

Cranking rpm?
FICM sync?

 

That's the odd thing. I selected the FICM Sync tab in AE and it doesn't respond with any data. And it only shows 34 RPMs in AE. With OBDLink on my phone I get no RPMs. BUT, the engine is turning over as fast as it normally does. So it's NOT cranking slowly.

I got the crank position sensor out and checked it. With nothing in front of the sensor I have 393 ohms. When I pass a piece of metal in front of it, it sweeps between 393 to infinity and back and forth with each sweep. And the graph bar goes up and down with each sweep. So it looks like the crank position sensor IS working?

Could it be the IPR? Or did my FICM die? I tried the old trick of running a heat gun on it to warm it up. Made no difference still wont fire the injectors. Not even getting any white smoke from the exhaust either. B.

 

While reading another thread it got me to thinking more. I thought that maybe I have a PATS issue. So I fired AE back up and did a deeper scan for codes. I found these;

Enhanced Powertrain CAN
P0335 Crank Position Sensor "A'" Circuit
P0611 FICM Performance
P1378 FICM Circuit Low Voltage

GEM/Central Timer
B1359 Ignition Run/ACC Circuit Failure
B1318 Battery Voltage Low1378
B1483 Brake Pedal Input Circuit Failure

Instrument Cluster CAN
B1352 Ignition Key In Circuit Failure (Which means I have that darn door chime disconnected)
U1900 CAN Bus Fault (I do get a Trailer Brake Fault code once in awhile so this is prolly that)
B1360 Ignition Run/ACC Circuit Open

Now why the top three did not show up when I did a generic scan for codes using Torque Pro on my phone I don't have a clue. I guess it's possible the P0335 set when I was cranking with the CPS disconnected? Now, does the P0611 and P1378 mean my FICM has died? It's about a six year old FICM Repair unit.

I'm not too worried about the bottom six codes. Some I know why they are there and others could have been caused by draining the batteries a bit during cranking to figure out what is wrong. Scratching my head here. B.

 

If, by some weird chance, it turns out to be the HPOP, which pump do I go with? A ford unit? The pump that's in there now is about 6 or 7 years old. I just can't understand how the HPOP is fine one minute and dead the next. What part inside fails so rapidly? B.

 

As for the HOP. I would stick with the Ford unit as they don't
seem to be one of those things that have a high failure rate.

 

P0611, the dreaded FICM code.
P1378 is low logic voltage (usually set when below 7 volts).
It could be batteries, a bad connection/ground, or a defective FICM relay. It could also be a bad FICM.

If the batteries are marginal, during the rebuild motor start they could have hurt the FICM. I'd check the batteries.

ICP voltage is about 1.0v per 1,000psi, so the HPOP pump is working.

The crank sensor is cheap enough I'd replace it. It could be wiring or connector, You don't want to know the worse case.

​​​​​​​Mark goes way deeper into his than I care to.

 

If PATS related, maybe try starting with key on and using the starter wire.

 

For the FICM, here is a document that may help:
https://mid-atlanticema.org/wp-conte...Tech-Guide.pdf

 

Thanks guys. I talked to Scott at FICM Repair yesterday. Man, he was a LOT of help and made some more suggestions.

So today, I went out and reinstalled the fairly new crank position sensor. I pulled the oil filter out and did a fill test. I got to a count of six seconds and the reservoir was full of oil while holding down the drain valve in the bottom with an extension. So all good with the Low Pressure Oil Pump.

I moved to checking fuses and relays. Did not find a problem there, but admit it could STILL be a relay as I don't have a test box for those. I did push on them to make sure they were well seated. As a side not, I did replace the FICM relay yesterday to no avail. So I got set up to do some more cranking and checking numbers. But something surprising happened. See below.

So then I moved to the laptop and selected the following parameters;

FICM Logic KOEO 12.5v, running ? Belt is off right now.
FICM Main KOEO 48-49, running 48-49v
CMP/CKP for SYNC KOEO read 0, running cycled between 0 and 1
FICM for SYNC KOEO read 0, running cycled between 0 and 1
ICP Regulator KOEO read 14%, running was 40% at idle
ICP Volts KOEO read .26v, running at idle 1.4v
ICP Pressure KOEO read 12psi, cranking it read 1496-1680PSI, running at cold idle read 1154PSI
EBP Volts KOEO .87v, running 1.3v
Cold Idle Running 751rpms.

The damned thing started!!!! And ran. Just like nothing was wrong. WTH? So now what do I do? I don't want to start driving it again and end up dead on the roadway. I guess first thing is to renew my road service huh? LOL. B.

 

The cycling between 0 and 1 for Sync sounds like either the cam sensor or the FICM now.

I assume after re-installing the (fairly new) CKP you didn't have any issues with rpm readings?

 

B, I would put money on the crank sensor or the associated wiring.

 

Correct Mark, after I reinstalled the crank sensor I was getting RPM readings. I have ordered a new one anyway. Too much trouble to replace that darn thing as it's buried behind the A/C compressor. What should the SYNC be showing me?

The crank and cam sensors were replaced earlier this year when I did the top end. Of course, if you have read my thread on "Short Block" you know what happened after that little experience. B.

 

The whole thing is odd. Late last night, I went back out and did some more checking. The crank sensor was not re-installed yet. BUT, the HPOP was only showing 344psi during cranking. Where as earlier in the day yesterday it was bouncing around between 1496psi and 1680psi during cranking. So late last night I threw in the towel all frustrated. And I didn't sleep worth a crap. I kept having nightmares of a LPOP failure. Or a bad oil filter. Or a plugged screen under the oil cooler. Or the HPOP is running dry. The thoughts wouldn't end.

Well, it HAS a Ford oil filter for sure. And of course the oil filter reservoir filled in six seconds while holding down the relief valve in the bottom. So that's not the problem. BUT, it DOES have a pigtail extension on the ICP sensor to feed info to the Glow Shift gauge I installed this last summer. AND, Scot at FICM Repair suggested that could be part of the problem and could explain why late last night I saw that really low HPOP reading. IDK. B

 

Just normal overnight for a Powerstroke 6.0 owner.