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I reset my computer recently. My check engine light came on due to a bad ignition coil. Coil was replaced and reset the computer. I've been driving it for a couple weeks since then. I took it in to have the emissions checked, and they couldn't pass it. He said something related to the cat and condensor were not working, and asked if I had disconnected the battery or reset the computer recently. I said yes, and he said to drive it around for 50 miles or more and come try testing it again.
I've put well over 50 miles on it since the reset. Has anyone heard of this? Is there a way to trigger the computer checks to work?
I sounds like you still have cat and condensor problems that needs to be fixed.. I would suggest spending about $100 and get yourself a code reading so you can check your computer yourself.. here is a link: Innova OBD Code Reader 5210 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)
Some Ford vehicles (most of them probably) have a soft code (will not light the CEL) when a battery is replaced or the codes have been reset. It is called an OBDII drive cycle error. The fix action is usually a few drive cycles. For example, here is the fix action for a "drive cycle" code on the 7.3L PSD Super Duty.
And this is how I would clear these 'soft' codes and hopefully pass emissions?
Well, if you reset the codes, then the drive cycle clock will be reset as well. I believe it is a bit of a tattle tell in order to inform the technician that someone has been into the computer (ECM/PCM) shortly before they were.
The procedure I posted above is for a 20 year old diesel truck. OBDII protocols have come a long way since then, so don't use that procedure as a good example, it was simply an example.
I performed a quick search for 2016 Ford Escape Drive Cycle reset and came up with many links, one of which I have pasted below.
If you get a scan tool, you can connect and 'read' the stored codes. One of the codes is generated after the original DTC codes are erased. The code indicates that all of the 'monitors' have not been completed. One that is somewhat difficult is the 'evaporative emissions' which contains gas tank vapors. One of the requirements for that test to run is the fuel tank content must be over 1/4 tank, but less than XX of a tank. Once that is met, it can run the test, with both pressure and vacuum in the tank.
You can use a scan tool to determine which tests have completed and which are yet to be finished. A 'road test' that has stop signs, idles, high(50+) speed and stop/restart is one of the tests that is somewhat difficult to get done on demand. Some techs have a favorite route they take that will get the test completed, but most will not reveal their secret...
tom
If you get a scan tool, you can connect and 'read' the stored codes. One of the codes is generated after the original DTC codes are erased. The code indicates that all of the 'monitors' have not been completed. One that is somewhat difficult is the 'evaporative emissions' which contains gas tank vapors. One of the requirements for that test to run is the fuel tank content must be over 1/4 tank, but less than XX of a tank. Once that is met, it can run the test, with both pressure and vacuum in the tank.
You can use a scan tool to determine which tests have completed and which are yet to be finished. A 'road test' that has stop signs, idles, high(50+) speed and stop/restart is one of the tests that is somewhat difficult to get done on demand. Some techs have a favorite route they take that will get the test completed, but most will not reveal their secret...
tom
What a royal pain in the neck.
So apparently the techs at the lube shop don't do this sort of thing. So I can run this test if I get a decent scan tool, put the right amount of gas in the tank, and follow the proper steps? If I have trouble getting it to clear, would the Ford dealership be the place to take my Escape?
Hard to give you any real FIRM advice since you're obviously not working on the '84 in your signature and you've never identified either the exact vehicle you're working on or the exact incomplete tests you're trying to deal with.
Again, the code is typically referred to as a "drive cycle" or something similar. If the codes are cleared by anyone, the drive cycle will reset. As I mentioned earlier, it is a tattle tell for letting a technician know someone was in the computer prior the vehicle being brought in.
Think of it like this... A car is going in to be traded in. The owner knows there is a CEL that goes away for about an hour after being reset. The owner resets the CEL and makes it go away, then takes the car to the dealer to be traded in. The dealer says "great, no check engine light" and gives them a bit more money. Unless, the dealer has a tech plug into the computer and see the "drive cycle" has been triggered which tells them something may not be 100% accurate as someone was in the computer just a short while ago.
The only way to remove that soft code (a code that registers, but does not set the CEL) is to perform a drive cycle as described for that vehicle. I posted the procedure for a 2000 7.3L PSD above, but I would be nearly certain it is not the same for your Escape.
You either need to figure out what the drive cycle procedure is, or drive it for a while going through at least 2 tanks of fuel and hope that the code has been removed from the history.
This is not a Ford only thing, this is very common within vehicle manufacturers now. For example, my Subaru must drive for 20 miles after the tire pressure sensor goes off and the tires have been inflated to the proper pressure. I can go in and reset the tire pressure sensor light, but then a drive cycle procedure must be completed as well. My Subaru is a 2008.
Hard to give you any real FIRM advice since you're obviously not working on the '84 in your signature and you've never identified either the exact vehicle you're working on or the exact incomplete tests you're trying to deal with.
2008 Ford Escape LTD V6
The sheet from the emissions shop says OBD II Readiness Monitors, Evap and Catalytic Converter monitors Not Ready.
Again, the code is typically referred to as a "drive cycle" or something similar. If the codes are cleared by anyone, the drive cycle will reset. As I mentioned earlier, it is a tattle tell for letting a technician know someone was in the computer prior the vehicle being brought in.
Think of it like this... A car is going in to be traded in. The owner knows there is a CEL that goes away for about an hour after being reset. The owner resets the CEL and makes it go away, then takes the car to the dealer to be traded in. The dealer says "great, no check engine light" and gives them a bit more money. Unless, the dealer has a tech plug into the computer and see the "drive cycle" has been triggered which tells them something may not be 100% accurate as someone was in the computer just a short while ago.
The only way to remove that soft code (a code that registers, but does not set the CEL) is to perform a drive cycle as described for that vehicle. I posted the procedure for a 2000 7.3L PSD above, but I would be nearly certain it is not the same for your Escape.
You either need to figure out what the drive cycle procedure is, or drive it for a while going through at least 2 tanks of fuel and hope that the code has been removed from the history.
This is not a Ford only thing, this is very common within vehicle manufacturers now. For example, my Subaru must drive for 20 miles after the tire pressure sensor goes off and the tires have been inflated to the proper pressure. I can go in and reset the tire pressure sensor light, but then a drive cycle procedure must be completed as well. My Subaru is a 2008.
That is a reasonable procedure to come close(at least) to completing the 'readiness tests'. If you follow the instructions, you should complete and the DTC will/should go away.
One thing that was helpful in the past for non-OBDII equipped vehicles was to 1)check air filter, 2)change oil & filter, and 3)drive 10 miles out on the freeway(60-65-70) and ten miles back to insure your vehicle was up to temperature. If you have a HC being too high problem, with the Lima 2.3, cleaning the throttle body and the upper intake seemed to cut that number down to passing. Internals seemed to get coated with PVC flow, making the intake slightly 'oily' and that added a few HCs to the combustion chambe. Added benefit was a nicer cold start and more even engine idle.
tom
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