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Hey guys! I've been lurking here for years, and have seldom had anything intelligent to say. I have the greatest respect for those of you who know what you're talking about and are willing to enlighten the rest of us.
The nut came off the IPR (found it and the spacer lying in the valley), resulting in a myriad of performance issues, i.e. non-performance. Anyway, I reassembled things, she started and ran very well, took a trip to town and back (about an hour each way), and performance began deteriorating noticeably. Sure enough, when I arrived home, I found the nut and spacer in the valley again.
Obviously I didn't torque the nut down (looks pretty flimsy), but equally obvious is the fact that I didn't do something right. Does the nut need to be oriented in a particular way? i.e. flat side in, flat side out? Went flat side out first time... I am thinking about Loctite on the threads of the shaft, but I don't have much confidence that that is an answer, given the sparse nature of the "threads" on the nut. A wad of Bazooka bubble gum on the end of the shaft???
Seriously though, if any of you can provide me some enlightenment, I would appreciate it.
And on a different note, as I am retired now, my intent is to be more active here, hopefully with something other than annoying questions like the previous portion of this post.
I’ve not touched it myself but @FordTruckNoob and @Sous know of a different nut (not a flimsy version) that you can pick up at the hardware store to correct this backing off issue. (I’ll do a quick search to look for the thread in a moment)
In the mean time, maybe a touch of JB Weld on a small portion of the thread behind the nut? Small enough to knock back off later if needed. I agree locktite might not bite with the thinness of the nut. I wonder if a bit of plumbers tape would help hold it on but not sure how it would hold up to the heat.
You should and need to put a fastener on the end of the IPR in order to hold the coil in place. If not, it could rattle loose and cause a stall condition. There should also be a spacer there with a narrow end and wide end between the coil and the nut. If you do not have a replacement nut, you can get a 1/2-20 UNF nut that will work just fine. Some have replaced the tin nut with the larger one I mentioned, Swamp's Diesel does this when they send out rebuilt engines.
Thanks very much Jason! I never cease to be amazed and impressed at the way everyone here responds. I hope to find something that I can help with in the same way. Thanks again
Leonard (FordTruckNoob) had found the "holy grail" of aftermarket IPR nuts, but the source has since gone out of business or let their website lease expire.
Here is the same nut on Grainger, but the minimum order quantity is 75... So, this will give someone a good reference for finding a single order option.
Leonard (FordTruckNoob) had found the "holy grail" of aftermarket IPR nuts, but the source has since gone out of business or let their website lease expire.
Here is the same nut on Grainger, but the minimum order quantity is 75... So, this will give someone a good reference for finding a single order option.
One could make that nut themselves with a hacksaw and a vise (and maybe a couple of vices too ). In my years and my wayward ways, I have 'locked' nuts on and bolts in in a couple of ways. You can squeeze a nut in a vise just a little and push it out of round, you can slightly damage the threads of either the nut or the bolt to create resistance and they will all stop nuts and bolts from coming loose. Of course, this would not work on a tinerman nut.
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). In my years and my wayward ways, I have 'locked' nuts on and bolts in in a couple of ways. You can squeeze a nut in a vise just a little and push it out of round, you can slightly damage the threads of either the nut or the bolt to create resistance and they will all stop nuts and bolts from coming loose. Of course, this would not work on a tinerman nut.
