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Ok guys I'm stumped and need some help.
I got a 2000 7.3 with 320k miles that has a oil leak in it, it started just before winter after putting on a new turbo. i took the turbo back off and replaced all pedestal rings. torqued the bolt down to garnet specks and drove it for 2 days. went outside one morning fired it up idle ran high on the truck so i shut it down looked under the truck and had around 2qts of oil under the truck. i decided at that time to pull the motor and freshen her up. over the winter did from heads up new gaskets and rings all the way around. just got it back in and fired up today let it run for about 45 minutes until it got to operating temp and once again i got an oil leak. the valley is covered in middle and front behind HPOP, i have once again removed the turbo and checked he rings and no sign of leak coming from turbo. i need help to figure this out.
everything I've done has been torqued to specs per a Haynes manual.
Truck already came with the EBPV already deleted right behind HPOP Leaks on Starter and Trans lines Under Turbo
You'll need to clean it all up, start it and see where it's coming from.
I’ve got it soaking right now with degreaser. I had cleaned it up when I pulled the motor over winter the inclosed pics are where the leaks are from after start up today
I suspect it will be a HPOP or line issue but here is a write up by Jessoe02ex that I copied and pasted that helps find these leaks---------------------------------
Let's see if we can help you on this one.
Upon a visual inspection, is the oil pool in the front of the valley by the HPOP, middle of the valley by the Plenum's, or the back of the valley under the EBP solenoid?
Understanding where the pool is located helps to track down what is leaking.
Front of the Valley: This is more the likely the HPOP. It could be anything from the fittings, to the gasket that mounts it to the motor. More then likely, it's one of the seals that is in the HPOP. An example of them all can be found here: High Pressure Oil Pump Repair Parts
Middle of the valley: Oil in the middle of the valley typically comes from either the connections of the HPOP lines to the heads, or the excessive oil mist from an plenum connection that is leaking. The latter will also cause a loss in power. You can rebuild the fitting, or just replace them along with the HPOP lines ($99/ea) and add some RiffRaff inserts to reinforce the plenum connections.
Back of the valley: Very common leaks here from the Turbo pedestal and the EBP valve. This one has oil forced up from the motor to lube the turbo and the EBP valve. This is a major leak point and the reason so many have removed the stock pedestal and gone with the deleted pedestal for their turbo. Turbo and Related Products
If you are going to dig into the back of the motor to fix a leak, then you might as well make your efforts pay off and knock out some other "weak" points.
Before we spend your Christmas money, let's understand where the oil is coming from.
Start by getting some Simple Green and a pressure sprayer. Carefully spray the oily areas of your valley and do the best you can to remove all of the pooled oil.
With a clean valley start up your truck and drive as usual. At the end of each day, climb up and look at your valley to help pinpoint the leak. You'll see fresh oil around the leaking connection. The Turbo pedestal is hard to see and needs a mechanic's mirror (
After you pinpoint the possible leak, let us know and we'll help you spend your money on the right fix.
You can take your truck to a mechanic who will charge you 75-135/hr to find your leak, or you can do it yourself. All of this on top of the motor is easy to take off and replace so I encourage you take a shot and try to fix this yourself.
Let us know if we can help you. If you post pictures, get some good close up's of the suspected areas and we can offer input for you.
Also if I remember there are some manuals that have the torque specs wrong for the pedestal bolts, by about half of the correct value. Will try to find the thread where I read it.
Also if I remember there are some manuals that have the torque specs wrong for the pedestal bolts, by about half of the correct value. Will try to find the thread where I read it.
After going back out and looking at it closer before giving a good cleaning. The fluid in the front valley smells strong of fuel mixed with oil. The pool at the back valley has no fuel smell mixed with it. But it’s does look like it’s running down the pedestal
So i found this posted by Chris F350-6 and think it was what my weak mind was remembering. Don't think it will help you though.---------------------
The pedestal bolts are 18 ft lbs. Ford says the two turbo bolts are 18 ft lbs too. Garrett says the torque specs are 35 ft lbs.
18 seems to work fine on the pedestal, although I usually snug it a little past that. I've always used the garrett spec of 35 on the turbo and never had a problem with it.
So i found this posted by Chris F350-6 and think it was what my weak mind was remembering. Don't think it will help you though.---------------------
The pedestal bolts are 18 ft lbs. Ford says the two turbo bolts are 18 ft lbs too. Garrett says the torque specs are 35 ft lbs.
18 seems to work fine on the pedestal, although I usually snug it a little past that. I've always used the garrett spec of 35 on the turbo and never had a problem with it.
I used the Garrett spec of 35 myself but it does look like I have a small leaks at the pedestal from the turbo so I’m going to pull it back off and check the rings. Might be a bad one
After cleaning... pack the valley with paper towels. Run it for a few minutes, then check the paper towels for oil spots. If nothing.... run it around the block to get up to normal temps, then check paper towels again.
Beware, some leaks only occur during colder weather, due to old o-rings, after engine warms up rings expand and you don't have a leak when you look for it.
You should and need to put a fastener on the end of the IPR in order to hold the coil in place. If not, it could rattle loose and cause a stall condition. There should also be a spacer there with a narrow end and wide end between the coil and the nut. If you do not have a replacement nut, you can get a 1/2-20 UNF nut that will work just fine. Some have replaced the tin nut with the larger one I mentioned, Swamp's Diesel does this when they send out rebuilt engines.
Ok so update. After cleaning the valley with simple green a hose and a lot of elbow grease I packet it with paper towel and ran the truck for 5 minutes. Shut it down and had no sign of a leak on any of the paper towels. Started the truck back up ran it untill it hit operating temp and shut down again. The towel under the turbo is soaked in oil.
so it looks like now I’m pulling the turbo again. Could the turbo or pedestal be bad? The turbo is only 3 months old pedestal is a deleted one. I’ve replaced the o rings 2 times now and I’m at a loss as to why it’s still leaking oil in that area. Front of valley was dry
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