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Yes whatever you add to the hpop will show up in the crank case so your oil will show over full. As far as the lpop, I am not an expert but my guess is that if it is worn it takes awhile to prime itself and start delivering oil but once delivering it can keep it up due to the excess clearances being filled in with oil, especially fresh, good quality oil.
I forgot to mention that as long as i manually refill reservoir, it starts fine, after a longer crank than usual but not excessive. The dash opg jumps right up after fire to over 3/4, and the thing runs fine for the remainder of the day. I did time my loss and after shut down I lost about 3/4" over an hour period.
I'm leaning toward the HPOP front seal? When I dive into this seal, are there other chores to do on the way?
Adam, I read your saga from 2018, what an adventure! Have you returned the T500 to its rightful place yet?
Once there is heat in the oil, it flows better which is why your lpop can maintain pressure going down the road. Your starting issue is textbook worn lpop. On cold startup the injectors are pulling from the reservoir faster than the lpop can replace it. I chased this problem for too long before I figured it out. Changed the lpop and never looked back.
You should get your batteries load tested. If the voltage falls below 10.5v, it will be very hard to start. You may ask, 'how could it fall so far to 10.5v'? Starting at 12.5v, When you turn the key to 'wait to start', the glow plugs will come on and your voltage will drop to 11.5v or lower.... then engage the starter and the voltage could easily drop below 10.5v if you have a bad battery.
Get one of these and it will tell you what is going on with your starting system and alternator out put.
Update;
For other neophytes such as myself, do not underestimate the importance of sufficient voltage! I should have taken more seriously brother Les's advise. I believe my dying batteries has added unnecessary confusion to my situation. I now have two new batteries so that is my voltage baseline going forward.
Friday morning I filled reservoir, it fired up without difficulty. I was on my way to pickup Melling M208 and other provisions. Long story short, I had to be towed back to home base due to no start situation.
Friday afternoon deploy new batteries and fires up, reservoir was full at the time from previous running. Collected PID data, secoundtest.
Shut down and try again 10 minutes later and no start. Collect PID data, thirdtest.
Saturday morning, confirm reservoir is empty, crank anyway, fires right up, slight stall but recovers on its own. Collect PID data, fourthtest.
I am very confused. I would assume there is something intermittent failing here and my further assumption would be the lpop is either dead or its not.
I'm open to changing lpop just as a matter of improvement over oem, but given this latest symptoms, do those of you who have been here before hold your ground on lpop being the culprit??
Any of you willing to speculate on what's going on in these graphs I would be grateful!
Again, thank you all for your time in my endeavor and education. I am grateful and hope I can repay moving forward.
Jon
Opened it up and this is what I found. Put it back in and returned the new one. BTW, the cost now at advanced is $146.
There was no scouring on any surface and I could not see any discernable difference between old and new.
Yes we need to know how much pressure is being pushed. The gauge on the dash is useless, well kinda, if it detects 8 PSI it will move to the normal range from what I've read. Also did you check the inside of the oil pump housing for damage?
Oh and a pressure test will be vital to see if pressure is present when the problem occurs, could also be a bad pick up tube seal going bad or the pick up tube itself.
Finally got back to working on this rig and after a long and winding road that had me first replacing a cracked front cover the final solution was replacing the worn low pressure lube oil pump gerotors. They really did not look bad until compared with new ones.
Anyhow, I will have to tell you that the overfilling the oil trick could indicate a cracked pickup tube but in our case it provided enough of a crutch for the worn oil pump to refill the HPOP resevoir fast enough to prevent engine stalling. With the worn pump, our hot oil pressure was 10 at idle and 30 at 2600 rpm, after installing Internationals oil pump repair kit, the hot pressure is up to 20 psi at idle and 40 at 2600 rpm and I can now have the crankcase oil level back below the full mark on the stick and it keeps up with the HPOP.
Came across this reading a few additional LPOP threads and thought it was pertinent. I agree that you should have replaced the LPOP since you had the new one and pulled the old one...Also agree with Adam that you really need to see the LPOP oil pressure or you're kind of flying blind...
Originally Posted by Tugly
The HPOP reservoir is under full LPO pressure, so you can put a tee on the EOT or EOP pressure sensor (for the dash) for another sensor, or use the HPOP reservoir plug with an ORB to 1/8"NPT adapter.
I put a 90° adaptor from the plug on top of hpop reservoir, then a 0-100psi sensor, I can just unplug my identical sensor on the fuel and use that plug on the resrvoir sensor and monitor lpop pressure on my insight cts2.
