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Your IPR numbers can not really be relied on with the ICP unplugged. The PCM is just making up the ICP values and the IPR is responding accordingly. Looking at some of your earlier graphs, I am beginning to suspect something is funky with your IPR.
Your IPR numbers can not really be relied on with the ICP unplugged. The PCM is just making up the ICP values and the IPR is responding accordingly. Looking at some of your earlier graphs, I am beginning to suspect something is funky with your IPR.
Like the tin nut being a little loose? Or needs to be cleaned and/or rebuilt?
Thanks Les & Adam.....
IPR is 1 year old, nut is tight but will replace with one on hand known to be good.
I just discovered a very loose wire and when touched, fell off. On the sensor which sits on the back of the fuel bowel??
OP Mentioned a new IPR a few 1000 miles ago, so assuming it was a Motorcraft and not a parts store brand replacement we can file that in the less likely to be the problem category...
The reason for the difference in the IPR with the ICP unplugged is that IPR is commanded by the PCM as a duty cycle in order to control the ICP...as more ICP is needed the IPR will continue to increase up until its maximum at 65% until the ICP reaches pressure the PCM wants...when you unplug the sensor the PCM will use default values for ICP, 2200 psi for cranking, 725 psi at idle, both show clearly on your graph.
The main problem is the oil draining out of your HPOP...because it shouldn't...and since you've got no signs of an external leak then it has to be draining down back into the crankcase.
Edit to add: Reflecting back on the thread and what we know now that the LPOP is making good pressure, there were no signs of unusual wear or scoring, I am circling back to a point Dan made in #17 about the possibility you rolled or pinched an injector o-ring on reinstall...
Thanks Les & Adam.....
IPR is 1 year old, nut is tight but will replace with one on hand known to be good. I just discovered a very loose wire and when touched, fell off. On the sensor which sits on the back of the fuel bowel??
The sensor has two functions. The 'water-in-fuel' "sensor" and the 'Fuel Bowl heating element'. I have had that 'sensor' unplugged for over 15 years. 'If' (when) your heating element in the Fuel Bowl burns out and arcs, it will/may short out Fuse #30. When fuse #30 blows, your truck will not start.... You may chase rabbits for a heck of a long time before you check/stumble onto the shorted Fuse.... Replace Fuse.... unknown electrical arc in the Fuel Bowl from heating element and fuse blows again....
No one really needs the Fuel Bowl heater unless they live waaay up North...
Unplug the sensor and leave unplugged and have one less thing to worry about on 'why will it not start'.... https://www.dieselorings.com/docs/FuelBowlRebuild.pdf
Because I'm having so much fun, replaced IPR with old known good. The one removed was FoMoCo and approximately 1 year old. The one issue discovered was little moisture boot inside plug was missing. I found it yesterday in valley and then promptly lost again. I imagine it fell off while I was inspecting all connections.
These results are post IPR exchange, with ICP plugged in and conformation #30, as well as all other, fuses are good.
If oil were leaking out the hpop back into the crank case, would I see any evidence in exhaust?? I see nothing, no sign of fuel (white) and no other colors either.
I am the first to acknowledge that I may have screwed up the injector procedure. At the time it all seemed to go very well. I'm willing to open back up!
But how do I go from a great cold start on Oct 2 to no start at all since. Reviewing what I have done since then, removed lpop, inspected and placed back in service. Confirmed oil pressure is above 40 psi. Confirmed fuel pressure is above 70 psi. Removed several connectors to inspect, all are back in place. Replaced IPR with older FoMoCo known good.
How do I go from data below (Oct 2) to data above (today)??? Again, thank you all for your help!!!
I was of the impression that you were starting normally after refilling the HPOP. Has it been a complete no-start ever since you had to be towed home? It read like new batteries were your fix there…perhaps I missed something.
The last graph doesn’t show ICP on it, but with IPR maxed I assume the HPOP was empty. When you unplugged the ICP was there any oil in the connector?
as for smoke if no white smoke you’re not fueling the injectors (likely lack of icp) if the orings are leaking you’d expect maybe some blue-ish smoke as a result of burning off the oil that leaks down into the cylinder, but since you’re not firing then no smoke there either I wouldn’t think.
Now the complete no start could be related to the original issue or could be a complication brought on by all the poking around…
maybe someone like @SkySkiJason who has probably experienced this issue more frequently can come drop some knowledge…
Josh, sorry for confusion! I'm in a bit of a blur myself.
Towed home
Replaced batteries
Attempted to start without filling reservoir....fired up, began to fall off and then caught itself and was fine.
Went for a 30 minute drive
Came back, shut down. Try to fireup 30 minutes later....long long crank but start.
Next day no start
Investigate lpop, etc....
No start since.
Are you looking at the fuelPW on last graph?
ICP is clean.
On previous long starts on this engine, before this episode, I would always see white smoke. Occasionally I will see a bit of blue while warming up.
What lead me to pull all injectors 1000 miles ago was a 250 mile trip that saw me pour 3 gallons of oil into the beast. That oil was disappearing, not into crankcase but fuel. I never saw heavy smoke out exhaust during that trip.
If I am losing oil now from hpop, how does it find its way to crankcase? I am now 1qt + heavy on the dip stick from repeated reservoir fills. My point is, if this is an injector issue, it's a different one than what lead to 3 gallons of oil consumption.
My mistake. I was browsing on my phone with the mobile site and didn’t look clearly at the legend on the graphs.
looking at the cranking data and the data cranking with the ICP unplugged where it also didn’t start, nor have any white smoke I assume, perhaps the HPOP has failed, allowing the leak-down and now not building ICP at all…
Original symptom was extended cranking to start with no white smoke. Graphs showed ICP taking ~10-11s of cranking before it would fire and run normally. Found HPOP to be low/empty after sitting overnight, but would start normally when topped off. Now most recently ICP is not building at all even with a topped off HPOP. Won’t start with or without ICP unplugged. He reports 40psi on the gauge from the test port on the HPOP.
Original symptom was extended cranking to start with no white smoke. Graphs showed ICP taking ~10-11s of cranking before it would fire and run normally. Found HPOP to be low/empty after sitting overnight, but would start normally when topped off. Now most recently ICP is not building at all even with a topped off HPOP. Won’t start with or without ICP unplugged. He reports 40psi on the gauge from the test port on the HPOP.
I would consider putting a gauge on HPO reservoir plug and verify LPO pressure. No LPO means no HPO/ICP. Scored front cover can cause leak down and delayed LPO pressure and slow start. Maybe inspect IPR for debris as well?
I have to step away from this project for about 10 days. I hate unclosed threads so I will be back to report what I find or to ask additional advise. Thank you to each of you that have lent your time and wisdom to my cause!
