I picked some up yesterday. Thanks

 

I'm beginning to think I should have left the truck alone. Dealing with plumbing the dual master has been a constant one step forwards and three steps backwards. While my main line to the rear brakes worked the first time the front line has been remade four times now. Each time takes longer and longer as I get irritated and slowly lose my motivation. You can see the time interval from my last post to this one as to how long it took to finish fitting the fourth line in at the bottom. So today was to be the day to bleed the system but then from under my truck there is a puddle of brake fluid under the right tire. Bleeder is closed, the new hose feels dry under and I see fluid along the bottom inside edge of the hub. It looks like a wheel cylinder has popped a leak and will need to be replaced. So ordered two along with new hoses since I have had previous issues with new front hoses leaking so I got hose/cylinder from same manufacturer. That will take five days to get.

So I'm going under my Parklane and replace the upper control arm and panhard arm that have poly bushings instead of the old rubber. Four bolts in and out. I think I can handle that today.

 

On the brake line replacements I have done recently, I have switched to silicone 5 brake fluid because it does not dissolve paint and the nickel copper is much friendlier

Steve

 

Well another step forward and then right after a step backwards. The passenger wheel cylinder had a little leak and so I put in a new cylinder and hose both from Centric professional line whatever that means. Went to the driver's side and when I pulled out the arms to mate with the shoes one of them gushed fluid. Good thing I am doing both. Only the cylinder was a bear to get it and the reason why was that the holes drilled for the two 1/2" bolts were 1/16" lower than the cylinder that came out. Actually got it in with severe effort but should have stopped and heaved it as the opening for the hose was going to hit the upper half of the king pin assembly. Sure enough the hose fitting stripped so it is in the garbage. Learned my lesson and that is never ever buy certain brake components on line. Off to NAPA tomorrow morning so I can look at the cylinder as to the mounting holes and angle of the hose orifice. For the driver's side this will be the fourth time off with the wheel and having to adjust the bearings and brakes shoes again. I believe September will be one year since I started the replacement of the front suspension and onto the dual master cylinder.

 

This is a recent thread on the hose problem. If your old hose looked like the old one pictured. I would just chuck the new hose up in a lathe and make it match the old one.
Front Brake Hose Conundrum - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)

 

Clearly the gods do not want to see this truck back on the road. I can't believe that I am going to be on my fifth wheel cylinder for the front to find two that work. The new set from NAPA has one bleeder screw down so tight that the correct 10mm wrench stripped the nut. A neighbor even came across the street and asked if I needed help when seeing me struggle and grunt. The other side loosened like a new normal bleeder screw should. From what I see the other side has the screw in deeper by three threads. Once again dis-assemble , R&R cylinder, adjust wheel bearings, put on tire, and adjust brakes again!

 

I too battled the ni-copp lines for a year or so got fed up to the point of ripping all out and using -3AN lines front to back. Ni-copp is very soft and if your line isn't absolutely square when you start your flare, it'll leak. Tried a couple different flare tools too. I think my next go-around will be with one of these deals:
Eastwood Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit for Professionals

 

I ended up buying this and haven't looked back. I did all the hard lines on my 65 with copper/nickel with no leaks the first time around, and I could NEVER make a decent flare with any other tool I tried. I didn't try the one you posted, in all fairness.

 

I've been using the Eastwood Flare Tool. Once I get the 2nd brake cylinder in we'll see if the system is closed. If not then I have decided to go back to the single pot master cylinder as it needs only one line and I can repurpose the one long line I know is leak proof. When you are beat you are beat and I can't spend a year trying to get leak proof lines. On top of that the truck is blocking two cars, the Cougar and Mustang, that haven't been on the road in a year. Time to get them out.