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So after looking at the truck from the side and moving around the wheels it is higher as I can almost get my head in between the tire and the fender arch.
Spindles upside down? Not from the looks of it and keeping them organized side to side.
Did you roll the truck forward and back and not just a little.
If not then thats what the issue is.
Better yet take it for a ride around the block then check it.
Dave ----
Not yet as no brakes. Since I got into rebuilding the front suspension I decided to put the dual master in. Making four new brake lines has been a real experience. Making 8 good double flares was even more fun. I have a hydraulic tool to make them but extensive testing, meaning prior failures, it took awhile to know exactly how the tool liked the edges of the line finished off before flaring. Got that down last week after two moths and have been able to make perfect flares since then. Hopefully no leaks. The rears have been bled and was working on the fronts, using gravity, but night is here and so I stopped one wheel short. Still have to see if I have proper brake pressure before testing the brakes. The two small lines were made three times each either for lower leaks or just didn't match up to the holes by a couple of millimeters. The two long lines were made twice each because of leaks up top. Still taking nothing for granted...
Not yet as no brakes. Since I got into rebuilding the front suspension I decided to put the dual master in. Making four new brake lines has been a real experience. Making 8 good double flares was even more fun. I have a hydraulic tool to make them but extensive testing, meaning prior failures, it took awhile to know exactly how the tool liked the edges of the line finished off before flaring. Got that down last week after two moths and have been able to make perfect flares since then. Hopefully no leaks. The rears have been bled and was working on the fronts, using gravity, but night is here and so I stopped one wheel short. Still have to see if I have proper brake pressure before testing the brakes. The two small lines were made three times each either for lower leaks or just didn't match up to the holes by a couple of millimeters. The two long lines were made twice each because of leaks up top. Still taking nothing for granted...
OK so the truck has not been moved / rolled / driven yet I would not worry till you take a ride around the block.
Now after rereading your first post and here on rebuilding the suspension with new bushings you need to leave the pivot bolts loose till you move it some to get the tires to settle.
Just moving it 30 feet forward and back should do it, with weight on the suspension tighten the pivot bolts. If you tighten them when in the air with the weight on them the rubber? is bound out and can rip turning them to crap in short order.
Yea its a pain to tighten them when on the ground but its the way it has to be done.
Originally Posted by Christmas
Spindles upside down? We never thought of that. Glad you figured it out. Why is the old brake line still hanging out.
See above he is swapping in a dual master so redoing the brake lines.
From the sounds of it hes having fun
If you need to make bends to the line you should have a line bender if you dont already.
But what helps is use metal coat hanger to make a pattern of how the line needs to run as it is easier to bend, then you can bend the line like the coat hanger .
Dave ----
OK so the truck has not been moved / rolled / driven yet I would not worry till you take a ride around the block.
Now after rereading your first post and here on rebuilding the suspension with new bushings you need to leave the pivot bolts loose till you move it some to get the tires to settle.
Just moving it 30 feet forward and back should do it, with weight on the suspension tighten the pivot bolts. If you tighten them when in the air with the weight on them the rubber? is bound out and can rip turning them to crap in short order.
Yea its a pain to tighten them when on the ground but its the way it has to be done.
They have yet to be tightened.
See above he is swapping in a dual master so redoing the brake lines.
From the sounds of it hes having fun
If you need to make bends to the line you should have a line bender if you dont already.
But what helps is use metal coat hanger to make a pattern of how the line needs to run as it is easier to bend, then you can bend the line like the coat hanger .
Dave ----
Have two tools for bending lines plus I am using copper nickel line which is easy to bend as you know. I think the issue with lining those two short lines up is estimating how much length is needed for the bend top and bottom so I am parallel for fitting into the master and distribution block. That and the double flares but at least I got the flares down now.
1st off I was making a funny of the old break line.
2nd; I thought about mounting my distribution block under the MC and being so close to the exhaust manifolds I chose to move it to the fender. With the engine is at 195 degrees the exhaust is at 245 degrees and the engine turned off, that was alot of heat. So for me it made sense to get everything as far away as possible.
I used the Nickel Copper lines. Forming them I used a verity of large sockets. This material is super easy to work with. If you bend it wrong just straighten it back out and have another go at it, all this can be done with just you hands.
Well I believe I've got the brakes bled. There are no leaks as it sits for the last 5 days. So tomorrow I'll check to see what the brake pedal feels like.
Well no brakes and I knew it the moment I pressed down on the brake pedal. Turns out the leak is the main front line at the bottom going into the junction that split to the front and back. I plugged the outlet for the back and used a splice to join the back line with its main line and was successful. This front main line will now be the 3rd I make and it is the most difficult one to form and then install.
Well no brakes and I knew it the moment I pressed down on the brake pedal. Turns out the leak is the main front line at the bottom going into the junction that split to the front and back. I plugged the outlet for the back and used a splice to join the back line with its main line and was successful. This front main line will now be the 3rd I make and it is the most difficult one to form and then install.
Looks like you are doing a nice job there. If you have trouble with the double flare seeping. Sometimes you can use a good quality single flare tool to rehab the flare and smooth it out and not have to redo the line.
Also the fitting you are screwing it into may have been made by someone whose first language wasn't English and doesn't have the correct taper on it.
Looks like you are doing a nice job there. If you have trouble with the double flare seeping. Sometimes you can use a good quality single flare tool to rehab the flare and smooth it out and not have to redo the line.
Also the fitting you are screwing it into may have been made by someone whose first language wasn't English and doesn't have the correct taper on it.
Well the fitting is the original Ford block down there which I removed to clean up.
FYI the Nickel Copper lines I installed were only single faired and have not leaked a drop in years. Much easier to work with than stainless or steel and are corrosion resistant.
