Ranch Hand Bumper and Front Springs
Here are some numbers I experienced. I am considering Buckstop Outback replacement bumper with full deer guard. The bumper part would be aluminum, the uprights and tubes and receiver mount are steel. The net increase is one hundred pounds. So I hung fifty pound dumbells off the front tow hooks and measured a drop.of a quarter inch. My truck has 5600 springs.
- Ride height before (ground to fender centered on the wheel hubcap): almost exactly 41"
- Ride height after (same spot): Just a shade under 40.75"
So with a total drop of just over 0.25" with 5200lbs coils, we can calculate that the bumper added about 215lbs to the front end (430lbs/inch x 2 springs x 0.25inches = 215lbs)
Initial impressions: overall ride did change, the front end is noticeably more compliant and softer on small bumps. Its not terribly bouncy on bigger stuff like speed bumps so I am going to drive it for a bit before deciding whether to use the 1.5" RC coils or whether to order a pair of factory 5600lbs coils to get me basically back to factory. My biggest concern was ride height, but it honestly isnt terrible once you remove that gawd awful front air dam. So I may wait until I am ready to go bigger on tires and do a proper leveling kit like a Carli Commuter or similar.
Now for the pictures! Want to start by giving huge props to Corey at LineX of Austin, the install of the lights and fit on the bumpers is outstanding. They got every taken care of turned around quick at reasonable pricing. Lights on the front are Rigid D-Series cubes (Pro Driving and SAE amber). I am not 100% satisfied on location yet, trying to figure out how to get both pods together in the factory fog light location, but theres not enough space on the ranch hand bracket to run them side by side, so hitting pause on that for now. I do kinda like the pair in the center section, feels like a throwback to the OG Super Duties from the early '00s. Rear lights for anyone curious are Rigid SR-L flush mount spreader lights.
- The rears are wired to the reverse circuit and an upfitter (with a diode so they dont backfeed into the reverse circuit when the upfitter is on) with the red halo wired to the tail lights so they come on when the headlights are on
- The side lights are wired to an upfitter with the amber halo wired to the blinkers (as an extra reminder to the people who like to camp in your blindspot and then get upset when you change lanes after they sat there while your blinkers were on for half a mile
)- I have an extra pair of the amber halo lights that was backordered that will go in the cutouts on the front bumper and be wired the same way
Let me know what y'all think!
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Very nice rig, glad you got it dialed in. Regarding your data, nice too see the math work out for your spring package.
My Results of spring swap were a net increase of 2.1” over the current configuration. (tape measure to top of wheel well.) So basically I corrected the .5” sag and added another 1.6” I was shocked at the difference. I expect the new springs to settle a touch, but even after settling If I gain over an inch to 1.25” from the lightest Ford springs 4400 GAWR to the 6000 plow springs is great. I know others have Diesels and 7.3 have heavier springs so their gains have been less, but on my 6.2l gasser GAWR 4400 front end I gained a lot of lift, and still have a decent rake to the rear. I needed that for the ranch hand bumper and the extra 110lbs for a winch cradle which adds a lot of weight way out past the axle.
Driving my entry road, around the farm and county roads here in SE Missouri after the install, the ride is not harsher at all, and I no longer bottom out and hit the front stops as much on drops, holes, and swales at speeds or while crawling. No more jouncy bouncy on my gravel driveway creek crossing. Super pleased. No change in steering, front geometry seems the same. The dealer did center the steering wheel for me after they installed. Still steady as a rock at hwy speeds on the open road. There is a noticeable difference in the front end view from the cab out the front window too, and with heavy braking it sags much much less too under hard breaking. 2000 plus mikes this past month with the new set up. I still have not yet installed my shocks yet. (Bil 5100)
1) Thank you for all this work!
2) I'm considering a Trailready Full Guard replacement for the F450. It's listed at 220#'s and I'm not planning on a winch. I wasn't really worried about sag, but go to reading and now I kind of am. The code on my springs is: 5C34-5310-ACE, which are the 6K springs according to Ford Parts. If the drop is 1" @ 800lbs, 220/800 = 0.275". That's not awful but I'd like no drop if possible.
So with that, this is what I found looking at the Ford Parts website.
5C34 5310 ACE - 6K (Code C)
5C34 5310 ALD - 6.5K (Code B)
5C34 5310 AMD - 7K (Code A)
I am not opposed to putting a leveling kit on it, but it's not high on my list as I do not really want to fool with caster shim, track bar and I especially DO NOT want to have to change the front brake lines.
The question I guess is, given all this, would you:
1) Do nothing. Buy the bumper, install it and be happy.
2) Go to 6500 or 7000 springs, which are factory parts that should require nothing other than changing them (and maybe putting in some new shocks for a better ride.)
3) Go with a full leveling kit.
For two reasons. 1, the amount of crap I take from the dealer regarding aftermarket parts is ridiculous. They are constantly looking for ways to not cover warranty and service work because of this or that. 2, This option has the least tendency to produce second order effects. You may want to get an alignment regardless.
1) Thank you for all this work!
2) I'm considering a Trailready Full Guard replacement for the F450. It's listed at 220#'s and I'm not planning on a winch. I wasn't really worried about sag, but go to reading and now I kind of am. The code on my springs is: 5C34-5310-ACE, which are the 6K springs according to Ford Parts. If the drop is 1" @ 800lbs, 220/800 = 0.275". That's not awful but I'd like no drop if possible.
So with that, this is what I found looking at the Ford Parts website.
5C34 5310 ACE - 6K (Code C)
5C34 5310 ALD - 6.5K (Code B)
5C34 5310 AMD - 7K (Code A)
I am not opposed to putting a leveling kit on it, but it's not high on my list as I do not really want to fool with caster shim, track bar and I especially DO NOT want to have to change the front brake lines.
The question I guess is, given all this, would you:
1) Do nothing. Buy the bumper, install it and be happy.
2) Go to 6500 or 7000 springs, which are factory parts that should require nothing other than changing them (and maybe putting in some new shocks for a better ride.)
3) Go with a full leveling kit.
I was in a wreck, hit a concrete wall head on, I was not driving. The damage was over$14,000, almost all of it under the truck.The one thing that was not damaged was my Ranch Hand front bumper, all it needed was a bit of spray black paint, its the same bunper in the pic below. I did have it Color Matched and LineX'd. Also have the matching rear bumper.
Its heavy, not sure what it weighs but Ranch Hand is serious stuff.
https://www.ranchhand.com/ford.html
I have the SnowPlow package which gives me the 6000 lb springs and my truck level when loaded and rides very good when loaded, not so great when not, due to those 6000 lb springs. Not so much as to bothered by it, but its harsher than my F 350. IF I had it to do over again I will get the Snowplow package, I personally like the heavy-duty ride. Its like eating Jalapenos. Someone asked me at dinner why I ate Jalapenos. I said it makes my mouth burn and as long as it burns I know I am still alive. When I drive my F 450 I know I am driving the King of the road, this truck ain't messing around its ready for any job I throw at it.
Legend with cutout for the front camera and adaptive cruise control














