Valve adjustment
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,190
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From: Near Los Angeles
Valve adjustment
When the exh starts to open, adjust the intake.
When the int opens and begins to close, adjust the exh.
Hydraulic flat tappet cam. Harland Sharp rockers.
Loosen the rocker until sloppy. Tighten while rolling p.rod in thumb and index finger. When all the slop is gone you're are zero lash. Tighten 3/4 turn and lock it down.
Does anyone else use this system? It's difficult to use a remote starter switch because rocker moves more than intended.
When the int opens and begins to close, adjust the exh.
Hydraulic flat tappet cam. Harland Sharp rockers.
Loosen the rocker until sloppy. Tighten while rolling p.rod in thumb and index finger. When all the slop is gone you're are zero lash. Tighten 3/4 turn and lock it down.
Does anyone else use this system? It's difficult to use a remote starter switch because rocker moves more than intended.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 325
From: Central Florida
Removing the plugs makes turning the engine over much easier. Find TDC for #1 on your crankshaft damper and then rotate the engine to find TDC for each cylinder by firing order. For a six that will be 60º (360/6). Here is a how-to from the HAMB:
Not hydraulic but the idea is the same.
how do you adjust valves 223 ford inline 6
Yes you need to adjust the valves if you had it apart. The valves should be adjusted for each cylinder at Top Dead Center on compression. The easiest way to do this is by firing order. Removing the plugs helps but is not necessary. Rotate the crankshaft until #1 cylinder is at TDC, both valves will be released and the distributor rotor will be pointing to #1 on the cap. With a feeler gauge adjust the rocker arms to the specified clearance, (pretty sure it's .019). You want a slight drag on the feeler guage as it passes between the valve stem tip and the rocker arm. Rotate the crankshaft 1/3 of a turn or 60 degrees, and adjust the next one in the firing order (wherever the rotor is pointing to on the cap. Repeat the process untill you have done all six cylinders. It will take two full revolutions of the crankshaft. One other thing to watch out for, make sure the rocker arm tips do not have grooves worn in them at the valves, as it will give you a false reading with the feeler guage. If the are worn they can be "dressed" so that they are smooth but retain the proper arc on the tip.I also like to use a skinny (as in width) feeler guage as it is less likey to "bridge" the worn areas and give an eroneous reading . Hope this helps.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 596
I agree, use a ratchet on the crank bolt. And if adjusting in the firing order confuses you, there's other ways. I start with the balancer at TDC (doesn't matter which stroke), then adjust all 16 rockers until the pushrods have slight tension. If it's a V8, rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and repeat adjustment on all 16 rockers. Keep rotating 90 degrees and adjusting rockers until you've completed two full rotations of the crankshaft. You'll notice that after each cycle, there are two less rockers to tighten. Once you've rotated the crankshaft two complete turns, all the rockers have been zero'd and you can now add your 1/2 or 3/4 turn and lock the polylocks.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,190
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
Today I went back and re-did all the valves. I had them too tight. As I untightened each valve I could see the p.rod rising out of the lifter.
I used the above system—no need for timing marks or TDC. I choose a cylinder and rotate crank with a ratchet, 1/2" drive, with the s.plugs out. I rotate crank until the exh. starts to open, and adjust the intake. Then I rotate crank again until the int. valve opens and begins to close. Then I adjust the exhaust valve. Next. Works great.
I used the above system—no need for timing marks or TDC. I choose a cylinder and rotate crank with a ratchet, 1/2" drive, with the s.plugs out. I rotate crank until the exh. starts to open, and adjust the intake. Then I rotate crank again until the int. valve opens and begins to close. Then I adjust the exhaust valve. Next. Works great.
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Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 596
Today I went back and re-did all the valves. I had them too tight. As I untightened each valve I could see the p.rod rising out of the lifter.
I used the above system—no need for timing marks or TDC. I choose a cylinder and rotate crank with a ratchet, 1/2" drive, with the s.plugs out. I rotate crank until the exh. starts to open, and adjust the intake. Then I rotate crank again until the int. valve opens and begins to close. Then I adjust the exhaust valve. Next. Works great.
I used the above system—no need for timing marks or TDC. I choose a cylinder and rotate crank with a ratchet, 1/2" drive, with the s.plugs out. I rotate crank until the exh. starts to open, and adjust the intake. Then I rotate crank again until the int. valve opens and begins to close. Then I adjust the exhaust valve. Next. Works great.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 116
Likes: 28
From: North Pole, Alaska
I agree, use a ratchet on the crank bolt. And if adjusting in the firing order confuses you, there's other ways. I start with the balancer at TDC (doesn't matter which stroke), then adjust all 16 rockers until the pushrods have slight tension. If it's a V8, rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and repeat adjustment on all 16 rockers. Keep rotating 90 degrees and adjusting rockers until you've completed two full rotations of the crankshaft. You'll notice that after each cycle, there are two less rockers to tighten. Once you've rotated the crankshaft two complete turns, all the rockers have been zero'd and you can now add your 1/2 or 3/4 turn and lock the polylocks.
There is a posted YouTube video from a machine shop business owner that demonstrates and preaches this exact method that has worked for him for like 40 something years which saves him a great deal of time assembling engines with no margin of error for clients and customers......
As for the three Ford (HYDRAULIC) [429] [390] [460] and two Dodge (SOLID) [225] [225] engines that I ever rebuilt, I always done the rotation firing order TDC method and zero lash [both valves closed on compression stroke of each firing order cylinder] before preloading (HYDRAULIC) as any engine type of assigned cylinder number and it's firing order will not confuse me and over 95 % of all of us that have rebuilt engines before....
This thread has now disclosed the three main type methods of V8 hydraulic valve adjustment that works well, the important factor here is the vital details of preload which is essential to having a trouble free break in and a long life valve train.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,221
Likes: 323
From: SW PA
Today I went back and re-did all the valves. I had them too tight. As I untightened each valve I could see the p.rod rising out of the lifter.
I used the above system—no need for timing marks or TDC. I choose a cylinder and rotate crank with a ratchet, 1/2" drive, with the s.plugs out. I rotate crank until the exh. starts to open, and adjust the intake. Then I rotate crank again until the int. valve opens and begins to close. Then I adjust the exhaust valve. Next. Works great.
I used the above system—no need for timing marks or TDC. I choose a cylinder and rotate crank with a ratchet, 1/2" drive, with the s.plugs out. I rotate crank until the exh. starts to open, and adjust the intake. Then I rotate crank again until the int. valve opens and begins to close. Then I adjust the exhaust valve. Next. Works great.
Isn't this the same procedure you said in post #1?
How do you know you had them too tight?
What prompted you to re-adjust them?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,190
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I knew they were too tight firstly b/c it ran terribly. Secondly, because I went back and re-read my instructions that said 'tighten to zero lash.' In mechanical terminology lash means free play. I had thought that I needed to tighten until I felt the push rod get harder to roll in my fingers. I kept tightening, waiting for resistance to the rolling. What I needed to do was find the point where I was no longer able to feel upward free play between the p.rod and rocker, and then tighten the 3/4 turn past that.
I was prompted b/c it ran so poorly, and b/c after re-reading the instructions I knew I had tightened to far.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 364
Likes: 91
Keep spinning the push rod between finger and thumb while slowly tightening rocker. It must be super loose to start.You can definitely feel when contact is made between rocker,push rod,and lifter....this is with zero downward movement of the lifter plunger and now you have zero lash.You would be surprised at the decent mechanics that haven't figured this out.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 596
[QUOTE=AKsilvereagle;19886111]There is a posted YouTube video from a machine shop business owner that demonstrates and preaches this exact method that has worked for him for like 40 something years which saves him a great deal of time assembling engines with no margin of error for clients and customers......
That's why I prefer this method. You can't screw it up. You don't have to worry about keeping up with where you've been or where you're going, because you put your hands on all 16 rockers during each 90 degree cycle.
That's why I prefer this method. You can't screw it up. You don't have to worry about keeping up with where you've been or where you're going, because you put your hands on all 16 rockers during each 90 degree cycle.
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