What is the proper way to set up preload on roller rockers when using rocker studs? Should I tighten the nuts down until the lifters are compressed and the pushrods do not spin freely? Thanks.

 

Whoever made your lifters should have something that tells you. From all I read I decided that zero lash plus a half turn was enough to keep the plunger away from the retainer in the top of the lifter as they did not have the snap ring retainer just the little wire one..

 

so there is no "rule of thumb"? Surely lifter design cannot vary that much...

 

Make sure to have all the rockers installed but not tightened.Turn the engine over by hand until an exhaust valve is starting to open.Tighten it's paired intake valve to zero lash and add a half a turn.When the intake valve is almost closed,tighten the exhaust valve to zero lash plus a half a turn.You should be able to turn the pushrod with your fingers after you tighten the rocker.If the intake manifold is off,look at the lifter as you tighten to make sure the plunger is no more the~0.015 to 0.020 below the retaining clip.That's lifterpreload.
The point is to get the cam on the base circle of the lobe.Keep track of rockers/cylinders that you've done by marking them with a felt tip marker.After I've done all my valves,I will turn it over(by hand) to double check them.You are checking for up/down movement,not side/side movement.This is for hydraulic lifters.For solid lifters add valve lash(manufactuer recomended).After cam break-in I'll pull the valve covers and check for loose rockers again.

 

Ok, makes sense now. Thanks a lot guys.

 

The Crane Cam website has a very good section on setting lifter preload if you still need help.

 

Asking this question makes me wonder how you bought push rods ? Did you measure for length then order custom length hardened push rods ? Stock length probably won't be right.

 

Go on the Internet and Google Smith Bros or Manton Pushrods and download their catalogs. You can get all the pushrod information you will ever need there. You can buy an adjustable pushrod there and use it to set up the proper lifter preload. Take the adjustable pushrod back out and measure it and you will have the proper length pushrod for your application. You can find your proper application in their catalog and order them specifying the proper length needed.

 

You'll find a lot of times that you will need different lengths for intake than you will exhaust.

 

I think you will find a difference between all valves. Not just the intake or exhaust. That is where the preload shims come into use. I have had to use preload shims all the way from 30 to 90 thousandths on the same engine irregardless of whether it was an intake or exhaust valve. That is why you need to purchase the longest pushrod needed for your application and then use the shims for individual adjustments on each lifter. The adjustable pushrod would probably be the best option, but they are quite expensive and I am not sure how practical they would be for a daily driver.

 

Yes, I ordered .050" longer pushrods, 8.600". I did use an adjustable length pushrod which was $12. I just installed the rocker arms this weekend and they all checked fine. Right in the center of the valve tip. Anything I am missing?

 

You should be fine.I converted a set of C9VE to adjustable roller rockers and I was able to use 8.55" pushrods.My truck runs great.