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Hey everyone. I was wondering if you could help me get pointed in the right direction? I just had a nice pair of Isspro gauges installed and now I’m realizing my truck has issues. I’m seeing low boost—if I mash on it it will boost to 9psi but cruising I’m lucky to hit 6psi pulling my relatively light camp trailer (4K lbs or so loaded). My egts will quickly rise to 1250 or past if I let it but I haven’t gone past. Prior to the gauges I’m sure I’ve far exceeded 1250 which as you could imagine has me worried...
I can’t hear my waste gate at all. My friend has a 7.3 and his waste gate is very noticeable. Could mine just not be holding? How would I know for sure? Intercooler boots look to be in good shape although they are stock.
Truck is an E99 with a manual transmission and is all stock aside from a 6637 filter and a 4” turbo back with no cat or muffler.
I have another trip coming up and would like to get it sorted before I hit the road. Any advice or help would be appreciated! Let me know if you need more info. Thanks,
1- check for exhaust leaks, head to manifolds, manifolds to up pipes, up pipes to collector/ babies butt. Drive pressure leaks will rob boost pressure and raise egt.
2- do a boost leak check. Pressurize system post ccv, 15psi and go to town with soapy water in a spray bottle. Address all bubbly locations.
The wastegate noise you’re referring too is more likely “turbo bark” when letting off with higher boost conditions.
The wastegate deserves being looked into but I don’t think the noise you’re hearing is the gate opening.
Are you stock or running tunes? Sorry, signatures don’t show up on mobile devices.
I don’t see any soot on the firewall and when it starts cold I don’t see any smoke escaping from anywhere except the tail pipe so I ‘think’ I’m good to go in that regard.
To pressurize the system I just put a 3” pipe cap with a schrader valve in where the air filter attaches and pressurize it to about 15psi correct? I noticed RiffRaff has all the boots for around $150 I might just replace them to be safe..
The wastegate noise you’re referring too is more likely “turbo bark” when letting off with higher boost conditions.
The wastegate deserves being looked into but I don’t think the noise you’re hearing is the gate opening.
Are you stock or running tunes? Sorry, signatures don’t show up on mobile devices.
Thanks for the reply. I’m all stock no tunes although I do have an old Edge programmer I thought about putting on the tow haul tune once I get this all sorted out.
Also the ebpv has been unplugged so it should be wide open...
I don’t see any soot on the firewall and when it starts cold I don’t see any smoke escaping from anywhere except the tail pipe so I ‘think’ I’m good to go in that regard.
To pressurize the system I just put a 3” pipe cap with a schrader valve in where the air filter attaches and pressurize it to about 15psi correct? I noticed RiffRaff has all the boots for around $150 I might just replace them to be safe..
Thanks for the reply and help
Here's a video on the boost leak detector. To check for soot on the up pipes you could use a mirror on a stick or stick your phone back there and take some pics. Look at the top of the up pipes where they go into the back of the turbo, see example pic. Ignore the arrow.
I forgot to add that I unplugged the red tube on the waste gate and it made no difference at all if that gives any clues as to what’s going on.
I pulled the hot side intercooler tube and looked very close at the boots. No wear that I can see. Working on the cold side now. My pipe cap and schrader valve should be here in a few days so that will help.
I prefer to not pressurize the CCV when doing the boost leak check. If you get too much pressure there’s a potential of damaging a seal. But this thought is probably vastly overstated. The air should come out around the dipstick before that point I hope...
When I do a check I put the cap directly on the turbo using a separate boot.
As Jason said, cap directly on the turbo inlet is the preferred and most effective method. I just did this a couple of weeks ago after installing a new T4 turbo and having to crack open all of the boots and seals in the CAC system. If you use a valve even with a regulated air flow source it is easier to fine tune the air flow into the system.
I forgot to add that I unplugged the red tube on the waste gate and it made no difference at all if that gives any clues as to what’s going on.
I pulled the hot side intercooler tube and looked very close at the boots. No wear that I can see. Working on the cold side now. My pipe cap and schrader valve should be here in a few days so that will help.
‘Don’t forget to turn the regulator down on your air compressor before pressure (leak) testing the truck... I set mine to 25psi to start, then turned it up in 5 psi increments.
I pulled and checked all the boots except for the ones that go into the plenums. Everything looks great. Still planning to pressure test everything but I’m worried I won’t find much.
What else could it be? I’ve had a few people tell me the turbo is probably toast... I sure hope not the wife will kill me haha.
thanks for the reply’s so far I really appreciate the help!
I pulled and checked all the boots except for the ones that go into the plenums. Everything looks great. Still planning to pressure test everything but I’m worried I won’t find much.
What else could it be? I’ve had a few people tell me the turbo is probably toast... I sure hope not the wife will kill me haha.
thanks for the reply’s so far I really appreciate the help!
It is easy to check if it is in good working condition. Pull the intake tube and check for play in the shaft and check if the wheel has made contact with the housing. If you need a new turbo, I have a couple I need to sell. You should not hear the wastegate at all. I have never heard mine when I had one. You can tighten that thing all the way down so that it never opens. You will build more boost, but not until you figure out the source of your leak.
6lbs of boost unloaded at 2000 rpm cruising is ok.
Id expect to see more than that at 4K load with your foot into it, and your EGT is through the roof IMO.
Im pulling 8500lbs, 30lbs boost, and hard pressed to see 1200°. Tunes, and a wheel on my truck though.
If there are no drive pressure leaks then there is something major wrong on the boost side for sure.
Check the turbo as above... look at the hot side CAC tube where it goes over the power steering pump. The fitting has been known to wear a hole in the pipe there.
I would have done the boost leak check prior to pulling pipes out, but at least this way you get to clean everything up and make sure you have a good seal at the boots.
I found 5 different leaks on my truck and was still making 16ish.
Thanks again everyone you’ve all been very helpful. So I have this sinking feeling that my plenums are to blame for my leak(s). I won’t know for sure until I can pressurize everything hopefully tomorrow so in the meantime I’m just stressing myself out over hopefully nothing haha.
I’m really dreading the thought of having to do them if needed I’m ok with a wrench but it looks to be quite a bit more work than I’m comfortable with...
That said the truck does have 237k and I highly doubt they’ve ever been off. My question is what do I need to do to be able to run the billet plenums RiffRaff sells? I tried calling just now to ask but they’re closed. Anyone have first hand experience with billet plenums on a E99?
Imagine I’ll go with an ebpv delete pedestal while I’m in there.. anything else to consider doing IF it comes down to leaking plenums? I’m relatively new to 7.3’s so I’ll take any advice I can get.
I will let an E99 guy answer for sure but I think those plenums will fit fine. You do have to remove the front passenger side bolt as it’s not used for the billets. Edit based on Walleye’s comment. I was only thinking of the head side, not the spider connection.
While you’re in there…
A cheap set of SS bellowed uppipes. Even if the stock ones aren’t leaking they will be eventually.
A RRD billet turbo wheel. Spools quicker and prevents surge, but I think the surge is more of an issue L99 and up.
Turbo rebuild is like $60.
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