Squealing While Cranking
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Squealing While Cranking
Hey All, I've got an 05 Excursion with a few issues. Throwing a couple circuit low codes that I've got an FICM on the way from Ed to fix. And it's got a high pressure oil system issue on top of that, that Ed was awesome enough to help me diagnose over the phone (I know it's said here often, but I can't recommend FICMRepair enough).
Anyway, it wouldn't start for my wife today in a mall parking lot after she had already driven it for an hour, leaving her and our kids stranded. Drove out to them, checked the scangauge, and sure enough the ICP is reading only 250, well below the min 500 required to start.
Gave it a couple hours to cool down, stuck some jumper cables on it, and was fully confident that it was going to start right up. Turned the key, only to have it squeal like a banshee when cranking, and refuse to start. Was videoing my scangauge so caught the sound, though it really doesn't do it justice. Any ideas on what's causing it?
Was dark by then so couldn't do much, so will be going back tomorrow to investigate.
Anyway, it wouldn't start for my wife today in a mall parking lot after she had already driven it for an hour, leaving her and our kids stranded. Drove out to them, checked the scangauge, and sure enough the ICP is reading only 250, well below the min 500 required to start.
Gave it a couple hours to cool down, stuck some jumper cables on it, and was fully confident that it was going to start right up. Turned the key, only to have it squeal like a banshee when cranking, and refuse to start. Was videoing my scangauge so caught the sound, though it really doesn't do it justice. Any ideas on what's causing it?
Was dark by then so couldn't do much, so will be going back tomorrow to investigate.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
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I’m confused. You mention squealing while cranking, yet also it is refusing to turn over?
Does the engine spin when you turn they key or not?
I usually associate a squeal with a fan belt issue, perhaps a frozen idler. Refusing to crank could be as simple as low batteries.
Does the engine spin when you turn they key or not?
I usually associate a squeal with a fan belt issue, perhaps a frozen idler. Refusing to crank could be as simple as low batteries.
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I’m confused. You mention squealing while cranking, yet also it is refusing to turn over?
Does the engine spin when you turn they key or not?
I usually associate a squeal with a fan belt issue, perhaps a frozen idler. Refusing to crank could be as simple as low batteries.
Does the engine spin when you turn they key or not?
I usually associate a squeal with a fan belt issue, perhaps a frozen idler. Refusing to crank could be as simple as low batteries.
I'm mostly concerned with that screeching noise in the video I linked. That's brand new.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
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From: Jersey Shore
I'd be checking the A/C compressor - remove the drive belt and try to start. You could run it for 30-60 seconds. A locked compressor or bearing will pull down batteries and have a low cranking rpm, just like bad batteries.
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Assuming it is the compressor or bearing locking up, and it is able to start with fully charged batteries, can I drive it the 30 miles back home? Or is that going to generate way too much heat as it tries to turn? Debating now if I should just get it towed home and work on it here.
Also TMT, first time I've talked with you, but I've read a countless number of your posts and threads over the years. So just wanted to take a second to say thanks for all the knowledge you've imparted on the forum.
Also TMT, first time I've talked with you, but I've read a countless number of your posts and threads over the years. So just wanted to take a second to say thanks for all the knowledge you've imparted on the forum.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Your welcome, there are a lot of good people here that contribute. On all the forums.
Without the belt driving the water pump, you can't risk that. The engine will overheat and that is going to cost you a motor. Unfortunately, no one has ever confirmed if it would be possible to use a different belt just to limp away. But here are some you should read.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...locked-up.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-removal.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...from-here.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...or-bypass.html
Without the belt driving the water pump, you can't risk that. The engine will overheat and that is going to cost you a motor. Unfortunately, no one has ever confirmed if it would be possible to use a different belt just to limp away. But here are some you should read.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...locked-up.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-removal.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...from-here.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...or-bypass.html
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 972
Likes: 224
From: Linden, Ca.
No start hot would prolly be the dummy plugs/standpipes. That happened to me in the drive through one day and, I almost did not get her started again. Your voltage is dropping down considerably during cranking. Which could mean a problem with the batteries/ charging system. OR, if something is dragging the motor down during cranking that's going to cause a lot of current drag on your system during cranking. A bad pulley bearing dragging the belt will cause that also. What makes you think you have an HPOP problem? Looking at your video your HPOP is generating enough pressure to fire. When you start cranking it shoots up to 1600+ then seems to settle in the high 900's. That's good. B.
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