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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 07:48 PM
  #1  
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NO Start issue

Hey all, So my truck died on my way to work the other day, it just cut out on me mid drive with no warning. I had to have it towed back to the house. Now I'm getting it to fire up sometimes with no problem it just won't stay running for more than about 10 seconds, then it'll crank and not start and then no crank at all, any idea where I should start looking? I looked at the "NO START" flow chart, and I'm sure my fix is somewhere on there, but with all three symptoms going on I was hoping for a clue from you guys! I checked my Hydra at the PCM and it's secure and didn't look damaged. I do have to add that this is about a month after doing the injectors, turbo, fuel system and plenums, so a loose connection somewhere isn't out of the realm of possibilities (although I've been checking as many as I can remember to). As always any help is appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 09:13 PM
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Start with the easy stuff. Verify fuel pressure and watch it after it starts then see what it does.

Kind of sounds electrical so ohm from the 42 pin to rule out connections.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 12:58 AM
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OK, I agree that it seems electrical, I have a fuel pressure gauge under the hood on my Irate system and its reading about 65psig. I won't be able to get to anything until Monday now, I did check the ICP by unplugging it and no dice. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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Is the oil level full? Tinnerman nut tight on the IPR?

How about codes? Recommend setting up a scanner next to read codes, and watch ICP, IPR%, FIPW and RPM while cranking, to see what the high pressure oil system is doing. Forscan Lite is a great app for this, running on your phone, with a wireless dongle on the OBDII port.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 03:21 PM
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OK, 42 pin conncetor was a lottle loose, but tight now.
Tinnerman nut was tight
The HPOP oil level was low and took way more oil than I thought it would, Still no start
The first time I tried it I got a crank no start, now it won't crank.
The codes are:
P1280 indicates injector control signal circuit out of range low.
P0475 If the ECM detects an Exhaust Back Pressure (EBP), Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) or Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor fault it will disable the exhaust back pressure regulator. (I have the sensor unplugged because I have a deleted pedestal.)
P0603 indicates that your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has failed its own Keep Alive Memory (KAM) self-test.

The last one seems bad?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 06:32 PM
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Don't think a completely dead PCM will keep it from cranking, firing yes cranking no. Sounds like you have a loose power or ground wire. I would check those first
 
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 07:43 PM
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Copy that, Ill be checking that next. I did just have the PCM out of the truck, so I think that why I got that code. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 10:03 PM
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Did you get it running? A few years ago, i ran into a similar issue that was caused by a CPS. There is a value that the truck must see within a few seconds of cranking, or it will cut off. Repeat. Installing a Ford CPS fixed that one.

On re-read of OP, i missed the sometimes no crank at all which i am taking for starter not spinning. If that is the case, I would erase what i wrote, but i cannot.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 01:29 AM
  #9  
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No yet, my work has been crazy lately so I've only had a little bit of time each day to poke around.. I am suspecting something electrical, but haven't ruled out the CPS or HPOP. I was hoping to cream it today and see if I could read the HPOP numbers, but I couldn't figure out how to read it with my EDGE digital display. Now my batteries are getting weak with all the cranking I've been doing. I'll get that straightened out and probably pick up a CPS and give it another go tomorrow (friday).
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 06:18 AM
  #10  
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Check ICP sensor for oil in the plug. Try to start it with ICP unplugged. P1280 points here.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 08:27 AM
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Haven't we had a couple people that had bad ignition switches( the box under the column not the key cylinder) causing the vehicle to cut out? Might also explain the occasional no crank.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 09:49 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
Haven't we had a couple people that had bad ignition switches( the box under the column not the key cylinder) causing the vehicle to cut out? Might also explain the occasional no crank.
I had the switch under the column go bad on mine not long ago and cause a no-crank and some serious electrical glitches when the ignition was keyed. Replaced it with a NAPA part and haven’t had a problem since.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 09:51 AM
  #13  
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ICP sensor is another cheap and easy one to try. Don’t use a parts store replacement go to the Ford or International parts counter for that.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 09:43 PM
  #14  
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I put in a new CPS and ICP ( I don't know if "Cheap" is the right word! ) and still no start. It is cranking regularly now so whats up with that? I'm hoping I can find my scan tool so I can see what the HPOP is doing while cranking. OK, so lets recap what I've done:

42 pin connector checked
fuel pressure checked and is good
HPOP oil level checked and oil added
New CPS
New ICP
wires checked at the fuel pump (I can hear it too)
codes checked, P1280 indicates injector control signal circuit out of range low.

BTW, there is NO movement of the tach while cranking. (I'm off to look that up right now).

Whats my next move here?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2020 | 06:00 AM
  #15  
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Parts store CPS/ICP are junk. Motorcraft only for these items.

Did you try to start with trying to crank it with ICP simply unplugged? The engine will run with this unplugged.

Tach should bounce in 99-01 trucks.
 
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