Yes, you're right, I forgot about that. They changed the snap ring that holds the direct clutch together. It didn't work, and if it came out of the groove it usually came out through the side of the case.

 

I saw no mention of the transfer case maybe in neutral or damaged
Edit: oops Park wouldn't hold...sorry

 

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to have a shop just rebuild what I have. Something about junk yards or craigslist screams someone else's problems. It's stinking expensive, but nothing about this truck was ever cheap it seems. If this gives me a few more years on it I'll be happy. This one made it 299,198 miles. I'll report back on what they find when it gets opened up.

 

Find out how much and then check with Ed at FICMrepair to see what the cost of a Ford reman trans is.
They come all ready to do with fluid already in them.

 

Your wrong. I have a truck right now that is intermittently going between no movement in any gear to only forward motion in all gears (Reverse and Neutral) I am on Transmission #3 with this same problem. In between removing #1 and installing #2 and #3 I have traveled a total of 1.5 miles. The thought process that goes into countless responses to similar issues is always change the Tranny. But if we dig into this deeper and follow the actual operation of this system people will see and understand a faulty PCM can cause all of this. To test this theory unplug the Valve body harness on the passenger side of the transmission. If it drives forward order a PCM. Save some money and stay a hell of a lot cleaner.

It took me months and 100s of Threads and 1000s of posts that ended with change the transmission. Unfortunately I didn't find the my answer until Trans #3. One post out of those 1000s created a clear picture with an alternate solution. Here are 3 paragraphs that explained clearly how this "Manual 1st Gear" isn't exactly the Lone Rider Legend that has grown to lead a cult of hair trigger Transmission Replacement Fanatics. I will concede that most times the transmission will be bad but we need to stop with this "no other option" campaign. It's costing people a hell of a lot of money. For those of us were this does work, knowing so before replacing a good transmission with a good transmission will also save us the weeks long argument that runs concurrently with our about our nasty smelly trans fluid clothes are ruining the washing machine (but I'll be damn if I'm going to throw my Steely Dan Concert Shirt away and those are my favorite croc's). They explain the following:

The torqueshifts do have a manual valve, but with no pressure being generated it still wouldn't move, it just doesn't have shift valves , or modulating valves, you have to think of a pressure control solenoid as a valve of sorts, when voltage/amps are reduced to the solenoid it stays closed more than its open, so pressure builds up behind it, and pressurizes whatever clutch packs are chosen by the manual valve and internal mode switch,

--When voltage/amps are increased to the maximum, ( which happens when the computer doesn't ground the circuit) then the solenoid is open and fluid simply flows through it like an open faucet. when the computer starts grounding the circuit the solenoid closes according to computer command. Fully grounded or no voltage/amps is fully closed which equals maximum pressure. This is sort of an oversimplified explanation, but should give you the gist of it.

--The computer could command the correct amps to pressure control solenoid A when in reverse but yet command too much amperage when drive is selected, which would give the correct pressure to allow reverse, but yet virtually zero pressure when drive is selected which would keep it from moving forward, I only know of this happening once and it was on an 09 torqueshift, and after the builder replaced the second solenoid manifold with another one and having the same problem, they replaced the ecm and it solved the problem, I don't know whether the original ecm had been reprogrammed at some point or not .

--To try and further explain it, the pump gears originate the pressure for the transmission, which then flows through the pressure regulator valve in the pump, from there it goes to the valvebody/or in this case the solenoid manifold/body, and is regulated by the pressure control solenoid and computer commands according to what gear you have chosen and what you are doing with the vehicle, sitting idling in drive it normally produces around 70 or 80psi, running down the road at highway speeds its likely around 100-120psi, full throttle pulling out to pass someone it could easily run up over 200psi, in reverse trying to back up a hill it could approach 300psi, all based on what the computer thinks it needs to do what you are doing at the time. So if the programming in the computer isn't correct, it can make all sorts of things happen, from lousy sloppy shifts, to shifts that would almost bark the tires, from the rare no engagement sitting still, to a hard engagement that would make you spill your coffee.

So to close this rant out properly I simply request that "The Replacement Squad" use a disclaimer that says unplug the damn harness and in if moves forward the stop immediately so you don't actually ruin the transmission from lack of fluid flow and Replace ECU.

Have at it and thank you.

 

In your response above, you also talk about having movement in reverse gear occasionally - is that correct?

 

Just for clarity, you state INTERMITTENTLY no movement (forward or reverse) in any shifter position (other than Park or Neutral of course), correct? So what is it doing when the symptom described in the previous sentence is not present? I read it as FORWARD movement in ALL shifter positions (except Park) INCLUDING Reverse and Neutral, is that correct? If so, I believe this old thread being revived is alluding to NO movement at all in any other shifter position other than Park, which is completely different from the symptom you describe.