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Oops was reading it too quickly. Here is another view that I have on my phone that does show it better. Looks like it's there, I can verify wiring/connections when I get home though.
What do you have for cam/crank sync. Could be a cam sensor, or crank sensor?
What do fuel filters look like? and what is fuel pressure? Sounds like fuel problem, but I'm not there. Take a look.
So my sync appears to be 1.0, thus it must be good? From all the other diagnosing I have done, I don't really understand what could be causing the HPOP to be at 0psi... Can I "force" the HPOP to generate pressure? Or use the IPR air tester to build pressure and read that on the ICP?
Besides that, the only other thing I can think is to try a new oil cap. From what I've read, it sounds like this can cause bad idling, but I haven't seen it flat out reduce the HPOP to 0psi. But that's all I've got that this point, don't think I've ever ran into such a stubborn issue haha, it's just driving me nuts!
So my sync appears to be 1.0, thus it must be good? From all the other diagnosing I have done, I don't really understand what could be causing the HPOP to be at 0psi... Can I "force" the HPOP to generate pressure? Or use the IPR air tester to build pressure and read that on the ICP?
Besides that, the only other thing I can think is to try a new oil cap. From what I've read, it sounds like this can cause bad idling, but I haven't seen it flat out reduce the HPOP to 0psi. But that's all I've got that this point, don't think I've ever ran into such a stubborn issue haha, it's just driving me nuts!
Not exactly sure what got it run though if I'm honest... Did a once over, made sure the batteries were nicely charged, did the remove/re-tighten on the fuel filter for the photo, had changed the oil last week, and it was a bit warmer today. I cranked it for about a minute, and FINALLY the 0psi HPOP read something above 0. Cranked a few more seconds and it started up for few revs then died. Gave it a moment and then it fired up!
Will get the OEM oil cap, but looks like it runs and everything checks out nicely. Will need to clean the engine bay too, wish I had done that before it broke down (was super messy, I try to keep our engine bays clean ish).
Thanks again everyone, really appreciate the help. Wish I knew what caused it to fire up this time, my best guess is being a bit warmer outside. Whatever the case, I'm just glad it's working again.
I'll try one more time. A short (OEM) filter in a tall cap will bypass oil flow to the sump and it will hurt the oil pressure. That is why the "Do Not Reuse" message is prominently placed on the cap of the integrated cap/filter combo. Sometimes the aftermarket provides adapter plates - they cause their own issues.
It is without a doubt poor judgement to run an engine for any length of time with that combination. Plenty of examples of it causing no-starts/hard-starts, but there ca be longer term issues created..
Warmer weather will not cure an IPR % duty cycle command of 83.9% or 59.9%
I'll try one more time. A short (OEM) filter in a tall cap will bypass oil flow to the sump and it will hurt the oil pressure. That is why the "Do Not Reuse" message is prominently placed on the cap of the integrated cap/filter combo. Sometimes the aftermarket provides adapter plates - they cause their own issues.
It is without a doubt poor judgement to run an engine for any length of time with that combination. Plenty of examples of it causing no-starts/hard-starts, but there ca be longer term issues created..
Warmer weather will not cure an IPR % duty cycle command of 83.9% or 59.9%
I'll make sure to replace that right away, but was able to get it running as-is with current cap (and new OEM ford filter). Below was the recent startup after a few minutes. Was able to restart as well.
Once again thanks for the help, was getting really discouraged but glad it's running again.
Just a hint here.
The cap for the fuel should not be removed by the 1/2" drive square.
They have a really bad habit of cracking when removed that way.
Your better off using a socket of the correct size to remove it.
Just a hint here.
The cap for the fuel should not be removed by the 1/2" drive square.
They have a really bad habit of cracking when removed that way.
Your better off using a socket of the correct size to remove it.
Good tip, I used the 1/2 drive socket extension and luckily it didn't crack. I don't think I'll be needing to remove it anytime soon though, but will keep this in mind for later.
And yes I do have the OEM cap on order! It's slower to ship so hadn't gotten it in time for yesterday's troubleshooting session.
It's not a bad idea to fill that square in with some silicone so that you don't forget. Another way to remove the cap is with an oil filter wrench.
One issue that happens is over-tightening the cap and cracking it. These caps do not seal better with a tighter fit; they seal by the o-ring being squeezed between the canister and the cap. What I've done with mine during the first install was to use a torque wrench or turn it until the cap touches the canister. Then I place a mark on the cap and the canister, so I know visually when to stop turning the cap without over-tightening. The caps will not back out due to a lack of torque. The squeezing of the o-ring is enough to keep them in place.
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