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IPR Valve problem any ideas???

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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 02:49 PM
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IPR Valve problem any ideas???




History first - 2005 Ford excursion 6.0 with 140,000 miles. Truck died on me and did some research. Hooked up an OBD II reader and I wasn't getting enough oil pressure. Pulled IPR and screen was cracked. Bought all new IPR and installed drove for an 30 minutes and it died again. Pulled IPR and this is what I saw. Any ideas what would cause this?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 03:55 PM
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What brand IPR valve is that?
It appears melted to me.
First concern would be how much of the melted plastic floated downstream.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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Brand New Ford Diesel Ipr Valve 6.0L 4.5L Injection Pressure Regulator Cm5126

Bought it off of EBAY.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 05:05 PM
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Looks like the same fate as the Dorman oil cooler. Buying aftermarket parts is a big gamble w/ the 6.0L.

You don't by any chance have an engine parameter monitoring system do you? Specifically interested in oil temp.

You might pull the oil filter cap and see what the plastic standpipe looks like.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 05:10 PM
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I can monitor with an OBD II unit and the TORQUE App... We have a no start situation. I would have to put another IPR valve in.

What would I be looking for with the plastic standpipe?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 05:12 PM
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Softened or melted plastic (as Mike posted).

You could be seeing very high oil temps or it could be very cheap plastic. I was hoping you were watching oil temp when you were driving (just before all this happened).

Either way, you eventually need to check and to verify that the oil filter housing will fill fairly quickly when cranking (when you install a new IPR valve).
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 05:26 PM
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Ok I will do that thanks. Would a failing HPOP do this to the ipr screen cap?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 05:30 PM
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05 HPOP's don't fail real regularly. But a failing HPOP can send metal debris to and through the IPR. It shouldn't cause the IPR plastic to melt though.

Again, like Mike said - how much melted plastic went through to the injectors? Could be costly.

Worse yet, if you see the oil filter standpipe melted much, you may not be able to fix your engine at all. Hopefully it was cheap plastic in the IPR that wouldn't hold up to 200*F temperatures instead of actually having 300 *F oil temps.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 06:00 PM
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I don't see an oring or backup ring behind the screen. Was/is it there? If not the high pressure leakage may have been a factor. Also like others have said you need to check those oil and coolant temperatures.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 06:05 PM
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Yes the ring was on there.. it came with everything on it. How do I pull the oil filter standpipe?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 06:05 PM
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Yes the ring was on there.. it came with everything on it. How do I pull the oil filter standpipe?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 06:19 PM
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You don't need to pull the standpipe. Just remove the filter cap and inspect what you can see. If it overheated, you will be able to see the deformation.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 06:24 PM
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Ok I visually inspected it and so no apparent damage. Now what should I do?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 06:32 PM
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If it were me, I would buy a Ford IPR valve and install it. Then take readings w/ the Torque app when cranking (if it doesn't start). I would also verify that you can fill the oil filter housing in 10-12 seconds when cranking (or 2-4 seconds when cranking and simultaneously holding the filter bowl drain valve closed).

If it does start and run, keep a close eye on coolant and oil temps.

If you are inclined to address issues ahead of an actual failure, I would install the one-piece fitting on the HPOP discharge and install the updated dummy plugs and standpipes also, if this work has not already been done. Otherwise, start cranking, get the cranking data, and go from there.

Cranking data needed (when the new IPR has been installed):
rpm
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
 
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
If it were me, I would buy a Ford IPR valve and install it. Then take readings w/ the Torque app when cranking (if it doesn't start). I would also verify that you can fill the oil filter housing in 10-12 seconds when cranking (or 2-4 seconds when cranking and simultaneously holding the filter bowl drain valve closed).

If it does start and run, keep a close eye on coolant and oil temps.

If you are inclined to address issues ahead of an actual failure, I would install the one-piece fitting on the HPOP discharge and install the updated dummy plugs and standpipes also, if this work has not already been done. Otherwise, start cranking, get the cranking data, and go from there.

Cranking data needed (when the new IPR has been installed):
rpm
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
I would even be inclined to jerk the HPOP cover off, if nothing else the odds of catching anything that stayed inside that IPR bore might still be there and can be removed.
The optimistic side of me says the melting looks contained, the pessimistic side says any fragment not there can cause headaches later.

I'm assuming since it's an 05 even though it's an Ex, it has the newer pump?
 
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