IPR Valve problem any ideas???
IPR Valve problem any ideas???
History first - 2005 Ford excursion 6.0 with 140,000 miles. Truck died on me and did some research. Hooked up an OBD II reader and I wasn't getting enough oil pressure. Pulled IPR and screen was cracked. Bought all new IPR and installed drove for an 30 minutes and it died again. Pulled IPR and this is what I saw. Any ideas what would cause this?
Looks like the same fate as the Dorman oil cooler. Buying aftermarket parts is a big gamble w/ the 6.0L.
You don't by any chance have an engine parameter monitoring system do you? Specifically interested in oil temp.
You might pull the oil filter cap and see what the plastic standpipe looks like.
You don't by any chance have an engine parameter monitoring system do you? Specifically interested in oil temp.
You might pull the oil filter cap and see what the plastic standpipe looks like.
Softened or melted plastic (as Mike posted).
You could be seeing very high oil temps or it could be very cheap plastic. I was hoping you were watching oil temp when you were driving (just before all this happened).
Either way, you eventually need to check and to verify that the oil filter housing will fill fairly quickly when cranking (when you install a new IPR valve).
You could be seeing very high oil temps or it could be very cheap plastic. I was hoping you were watching oil temp when you were driving (just before all this happened).
Either way, you eventually need to check and to verify that the oil filter housing will fill fairly quickly when cranking (when you install a new IPR valve).
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05 HPOP's don't fail real regularly. But a failing HPOP can send metal debris to and through the IPR. It shouldn't cause the IPR plastic to melt though.
Again, like Mike said - how much melted plastic went through to the injectors? Could be costly.
Worse yet, if you see the oil filter standpipe melted much, you may not be able to fix your engine at all. Hopefully it was cheap plastic in the IPR that wouldn't hold up to 200*F temperatures instead of actually having 300 *F oil temps.
Again, like Mike said - how much melted plastic went through to the injectors? Could be costly.
Worse yet, if you see the oil filter standpipe melted much, you may not be able to fix your engine at all. Hopefully it was cheap plastic in the IPR that wouldn't hold up to 200*F temperatures instead of actually having 300 *F oil temps.
I don't see an oring or backup ring behind the screen. Was/is it there? If not the high pressure leakage may have been a factor. Also like others have said you need to check those oil and coolant temperatures.
If it were me, I would buy a Ford IPR valve and install it. Then take readings w/ the Torque app when cranking (if it doesn't start). I would also verify that you can fill the oil filter housing in 10-12 seconds when cranking (or 2-4 seconds when cranking and simultaneously holding the filter bowl drain valve closed).
If it does start and run, keep a close eye on coolant and oil temps.
If you are inclined to address issues ahead of an actual failure, I would install the one-piece fitting on the HPOP discharge and install the updated dummy plugs and standpipes also, if this work has not already been done. Otherwise, start cranking, get the cranking data, and go from there.
Cranking data needed (when the new IPR has been installed):
rpm
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
If it does start and run, keep a close eye on coolant and oil temps.
If you are inclined to address issues ahead of an actual failure, I would install the one-piece fitting on the HPOP discharge and install the updated dummy plugs and standpipes also, if this work has not already been done. Otherwise, start cranking, get the cranking data, and go from there.
Cranking data needed (when the new IPR has been installed):
rpm
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
If it were me, I would buy a Ford IPR valve and install it. Then take readings w/ the Torque app when cranking (if it doesn't start). I would also verify that you can fill the oil filter housing in 10-12 seconds when cranking (or 2-4 seconds when cranking and simultaneously holding the filter bowl drain valve closed).
If it does start and run, keep a close eye on coolant and oil temps.
If you are inclined to address issues ahead of an actual failure, I would install the one-piece fitting on the HPOP discharge and install the updated dummy plugs and standpipes also, if this work has not already been done. Otherwise, start cranking, get the cranking data, and go from there.
Cranking data needed (when the new IPR has been installed):
rpm
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
If it does start and run, keep a close eye on coolant and oil temps.
If you are inclined to address issues ahead of an actual failure, I would install the one-piece fitting on the HPOP discharge and install the updated dummy plugs and standpipes also, if this work has not already been done. Otherwise, start cranking, get the cranking data, and go from there.
Cranking data needed (when the new IPR has been installed):
rpm
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
The optimistic side of me says the melting looks contained, the pessimistic side says any fragment not there can cause headaches later.
I'm assuming since it's an 05 even though it's an Ex, it has the newer pump?








