I have a 2005 F350 with the 6.0 turbo diesel, 215k miles approx. Someone tried stealing it a few weeks ago, so I started it up to move it closer to my security cameras in case someone tried stealing it again. The truck was running for about 1 minute and in the middle of backing up, it died. Looking at some paperwork from prior to purchase, the engine and transmission were both replaced in 2010 and EGR delete was also installed at that time. New engine had 75k miles and was done around 150k miles, so it has roughly 140-150k miles.

FICM CHECK:
First thing the FICM read was 0v, so I took that apart and the voltage regulator was burned up (literally several components were melted/destroyed). So replaced that with an upgraded 58V unit and now the OBD2 scanner shows 50V when I try to start.


IPR CHECK:
Next thing I did was remove the IPR valve, it had the new design screen with the "Mercedes logo" center support. Had a very tiny crack in the screen (7 o'clock on photo)

but no other damage, no debris/metal shavings. I lightly compressed the spring a few times and cleaned with brake clean and a clean paper towel, then replaced the screen and o-rings. Did the IPR air pressure test, no leaks that I could hear/find. I turned the valve for air supply off and disconnected the air, waited a few minutes, released the valve and there was still pressure. A little bit of oil did come out through the pressure test hose when doing the "wait a few minutes" test after releasing the valve, it looked a little thicker than normal. With ICP connected, the IPR often reads 14.7%, and with the ICP disconnected, the IPR reads 83.9% or 59.9%. Either way wouldn't start.

OIL:
I did an oil change and a new Ford Motorcraft brand oil filter (apparently this can cause issues?). Old oil was black but normal looking, didn't look overly thick.

ICP:
When this was connected, the HPOP reads 0psi. I disconnected the sensor and HPOP reads 1200-1300psi when cranking.



So I'm at a loss where to go from here. Since there were no leaks from the air test, I presume the HPOP, dummy plugs, and STC are acceptable. The IPR and ICP don't appear to be the problem given the diagnosis above. I think my no start has something to do with the high pressure oiling system, but not sure which component or diagnosis to try next!

 

What do you have for cam/crank sync. Could be a cam sensor, or crank sensor?
What do fuel filters look like? and what is fuel pressure? Sounds like fuel problem, but I'm not there. Take a look.

 

I removed the fuel filter cap (the one in the front near the oil filter), diesel was present and looked clean. When trying to start up, it does add more diesel to the bowl.

I'll have to look into crank/cam sensor and sync, haven't checked there yet.

Thanks for the reply!

 

I did an oil change and a new Ford Motorcraft brand oil filter


I think the problems occur when someone has replaced the OEM oil filter cap with an aftermarket "taller" cap and filter. Then someone uses a Ford OEM filter later on and the filter and cap do not match causing problems(drain-back valve not being depressed?). Your oil filter cap should be about an inch tall for a ford filter.

 

Bill has a good point. I would look at that, and see about c/c SYNC and fuel pressure. Send a pic of top of motor. We'll have a better idea of what we're looking at.

 

Here is the engine bay. I'll work on how to test the cam/crank sync today as well (not sure how to dot his but google should help lol). I believe the oil cap is OEM. Also I did the test where you remove the cap and filter then watch for oil to build up when cranking, and it does fill after a few seconds.

Thanks again everyone for the replies, really appreciate it a lot.

 

That is NOT an OEM oil filter cap ...............

 

Would this one be sufficient for an OEM replacement? There is one available nearby, so I could get it and try today. I'll keep looking for a Ford brand but unlikely to find at a parts store today (or at least within a few miles)...

For wht it's worth, the replacement oil filter was Ford Motorcraft and was the same size as the one I removed. This combo was on the truck and ran fine for a long time, truck doesn't get driven a lot (only for hauling horses).

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

A tall cap with an OEM filter does not result in much oil filtration. It may have seemed to run fine, but how do you ensure that you are not hurting the filtration and lubrication flow (pressure)? Oil filtration is about longevity - which means different things to different people.

Anyway, a tall cap with the WIX filter (purchased together), will work fine while you wait to get the OEM cap.

The Dorman cap you linked to might work fine, but I do not believe that they (Dorman) use proper quality suppliers .... and I would hate to trust that product for very long. A way to sell cheaper parts is to get their parts made with cheaper labor, less quality control, and lower quality plastic material to begin with. That is my opinion of that company.

Anyway - once you get the proper cap and filter combination - it may surprise you and start up.
It would probably be interesting to see what an oil analysis would show for that oil.

 

So I created the PID in the Torque Pro app from the link below to test Cam/Crank sync. What value is good and what is bad? Read the thread but they never really discuss what sync values mean (cam bad, crank bad, both bad, both good, etc). Best I can tell is it should read 0 when off and 1 when cranking, correct?


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...verything.html

 

Would this one be sufficient to use just to see if the oil cap is causing the no-start, then buy a real OEM if this solves the issue? It's taking a long time to do repairs on this since every time I diagnose something, I have to wait a few days for shipping, then a few days to install (working late and it get's cold/dark in Colorado early...). If this won't affect the no-start issue, but is good to have long term, then I'll just buy the OEM one and wait but keep the focus for the no-start elsewhere.

Once again thanks for the help!

 

Using the Dorman cap for now should probably work just fine for the short term. It might even work for the long term also, it is just that I would not trust it (but that is just me and my prejudice).

 

What was damaged when the thieves tried to take your truck?

Hobo

 

Where is the MAP sensor????? I am not seeing it in the last photo. Could be I am just missing it hiding someone where.

 

The thieves only broke the door handles, didn't get inside though. So had they actually stole it, they would have only made it about 50 ft then broke down!

For the MAF, you can't see it in the photo, but it's under the coolant reservoir. I think it's an AFE intake, there's a cover for the air filter as well but it's a pain to get in so I'll put that back in after getting it to start reliably. Without the cover thing, it's super fast to take it apart, check IPR/FICM/etc, and put it back in. On that note, honestly I'm not sure what other mods are done to the truck, if any.